Blaktyger

I would like to know what causes an alternator to brake down, how long is it supose to last on 7th gens????

Thanks

diskreet

iTrader: (1)

Well a few things can wear down an alternator. Weather is a big one, and constantly drawing huge current from it (stereo, etc.) can also kill it.

Stock alternator should for no reason break before 100, or even 150 thousand miles. If you have a stereo still 100K+ I would say.
Obviously some go bad sooner, but generally alternators last long.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

my original went out after 2 years, had a small amp for the speakers, maybe 30wx4rms. the guy said civic alternators are too small for all the accessories and so have to run constantly and just burn out alot.

Blaktyger

Mine gave out while I was driving, almost hit a truck...no brakes...
Thanks guys!
Well, mine gave out after 47000 miles...but we have bad weather here but still kinda weird...

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

seriously? mine went out, battery light came on, but i could still drive the car on battery power. in fact i even drove it to the repair shop. weird.

Shifty

iTrader: (12)

your brakes went out when your alternator went out?? Are you sure, cause the last time i checked, our brake system is mechanical and hydraulic, and does not depend on the alternator. Maybe the sensors for ABS but you should still have brakes.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

well we have power assisted brakes, but really i couldn't feel the difference.

Blaktyger

First ABS light came on, the SRS one , than the old board just shut down( no rpm, gaz odometer or speed indicator, abd no radio of course) Battery was also dead...(witch I had to replace prior the problem)
I think I'm gonna have my car check

Took 1.8 hours and 400 CAD$ to fix it...Glad I bough that extended warrenty even tho its pretty much useless on Civics...

Grey

iTrader: (61)

Looks like mine is going. My battery indicator light was going on and off. I did a test where you idle your car and turn on your headlights. Then you shut off the engine. If the headlights are brighter when you shut off the engine, then its the alternator. It should be the other way around (I.E. the headlights should be brighter with the car idling). I've got about 70,000 miles on the odometer, but my car is 5 years old now and I do live in a place with lots of rain and snow and salt.

burke420

iTrader: (4)

welt i got my tested and they told me that a diode inside the alternator was going bad, and my wiring was looking copper and black, confused i figure too much currnet from the jl1000.1 amp and 13W7....o well tho, when it goes ill get a 200 amp or more and another battery for the system in the trunk

diskreet

iTrader: (1)

not always. I have a volt meter in my car and it can be down to 11.8 at idle. I've never gone below 11.8 idle.
Car off I have seen it stabalize at around 12.4 or 12.3 (with a cap so it will start at 13 volts.)

asian relic

iTrader: (2)

For me my alternator went out like a couple of months ago, about 60K apprx 3.5 years. It sucked, b/c I don't have any money, poor student. At this time I had a 1000 watt amp and two tens.

Now, I, too, have a volt meter and my volts are always fluctuating anywhere from like 11.3 or 11.4 to like 13.0...I dunno is that normal? I no longer have my amp and tens...they sitting a home.

diskreet

iTrader: (1)

WOAH 11.3 is VERY low. Check your battery!

I have never hit below 11.7 while driving, and that was only for a second. Once it hit 9.3 but that was when I was turning the car on and I am surprised it doesn't go down that low every time (usually cranks at 10.1 - 10.4 volts)

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

ya i had a problem with my old battery cause even when the alt was on stuff would be dimmer than usual. finally got a new batt and solved all sorts of problems even the car runs better and stereo pounds like before.

boxcarracer

iTrader: (13)

well yeah brakes feel 10Xs harder to press when your cars off. I think thats what he meant by his brakes not working (as well).

True, I drained my battery recently i have a new stereo and blue LED Cluster from gearbox , its not a lot but i would keep my radio on and lights on when the car wasnt running dumb of me right? (but i love the blue cluster its orgasmic O_O) now when im idle i put on my hazards and my car rumbles when the lights come on. So either my alternators not charging or my batterys going to die. i have 44K miles so it should be time for a new battery. (but keep in mind my car was in a accident so there may be a chance it could be my alternator)

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

well the blue led cluster uses practically nothing compared to everything else. when your parking lights are on, you have 4x 5w front, 4x 5w rear, plus all the lil dash bulbs if they're not led, thats around 50w just for parking lights, if headlights are on, add 2x 55w

cIvIc_xyza

iTrader: (1)

i think mine is ok.. i have like 2 6" neons. 2 2" neons.. for my vents.. a 225 wt stereo. amp w/ cap and a 10" sub.. the neons are on wen i drive at night. . i dnt feel any problems.

shroomster

9.3 is the lowest you can safely go with the amperage, and above 13 is dangerous.....anywhere in there is fine, cuz the alt is still charging.....cuz after all if you get a load test done and the damn thing sits in the same spot with the load on it or it drops past the 9 mark time for a newbie.....

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

well the alt usually charges at 14.4v

shroomster

I honestly don't think I've ever seen mine that high....I'm gonna check it again today....


checked it
(this time with a good load tester)
14.0v output At200 amps startup then slowly decreaesed to around 120-150 range...
volts dropped to around 10-12 during loads but stayed up around the 14 after load dissipated....


now I'm being told it might be the IAC valve....but I dunno...

Grey

iTrader: (61)

Just a quick update on my situation... I checked my alternator output and it was betwean 3.5V to 5.5V, so yeah... Its dead. I got a new one from Autozone for $160 with the core refund (the core is the old alternator), but it didn't fit too well. The main attachment point is mis-aligned, so the bolt doesn't go all the way through. I'll go back to ask for another one today. This is turning out to be one long alternator install.

pon55

iTrader: (19)

With voltmeter on battery 12V off 14 to 14.5 running!(without giant current draw)
Always check belt for slipage before replaceing it!

shroomster

edited my post.............

Kyle23

Mine died at 95k mile. Cold weather & stereo system w/ 2 amps probably played a role in this...

jserman28

The original (I think) 60 amp alternator on my 92 CX died around 182K at the end of Feb, and it was replaced in March. First the battery light came on, and went off 3x's, progressively getting longer until it stayed on 100% of the time until the battery died, and then I had to charge it at a friend's house B4 going home. It's all fixed now, and car runs great.
My dad's 2000 DX alternator is still going strong at 165K, after having replaced the battery this year after 10 years.

pon55

iTrader: (19)

Old thread rein-car-nate
But then if you
Location: 2.5 miles east of Delhi, NY

Then all news, is new news

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

my oem lasted 2 yrs, my napa alternator is going on 7 yrs. our 92 accord still has the original at 97k miles.

02_d17a1_dx

iTrader: (1)

My oem one with a small 500w amps was going strong at 155k, but the output post stripped out of it and the whole thing had to be replaced, oreilly's special of the week is still going strong.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

im still on first oem alt.

i have a 600w amp powering 4 infinity kappa speakers, a headunit, a carputer, 50w hids that i stole from gearbox, and 140k miles.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

*knock on wood*