WD-40 on wheel studs and lug nuts? - Honda Civic Forum


Fuel, Oil, Cleaners & Other Maintenance Extending the life of your Civic requires the proper fuel, oil, and cleaners, along with other regularly scheduled maintenance.

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Old 10-11-2005   #1  
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WD-40 on wheel studs and lug nuts?

I was always curious, is it ok to use wd-40 on the wheel studs and inner threads of the lug nuts? I always seem to have a problem with removing lug nuts because they seem to get rusty and eventually strip out the wheel stud. On sunday I went to change my brakes and a few of the lug nuts came off rather hard, like they wanted to strip. Anyway, tonight I used some wd-40on the wheel studs and on the lugh nuts to try and get rid of some of the rust and to make sure non of them strip. Just wondering if this was ok? I always torque my lugs, but it seems I still have issues.
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Old 10-11-2005   #2  
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Clean em and use neversize (sp), its always worked for me. Grease is good but messy!
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Old 10-11-2005   #3  
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i would never use grease near my tires...i dont usually get rust but if i do i just use a wire brush to clean it and if something gets dethreaded i just rethread it
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Old 10-11-2005   #4  
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so it is ok then to use the wd-40?
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Old 10-11-2005   #5  
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its OK, but it woun't last.
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Old 10-11-2005   #6  
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Yeah, its just a rust remover. I wouldn't use anti-sieze on studs.... it alters the torque readings.
If your studs are so rusted you can't get the nuts on and off, either buy an M12x1.5mm die and chase them to remove the rust, or try a wire brush. I would think WD40 is a good first step.
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Old 10-11-2005   #7  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pon55
its OK, but it woun't last.
I figured it wont last, but I needed something for now. I dont want to strip another wheel stud. I have already had 4 replaced in the front and 1 in the rear. BTW, where di you get the neversize or is it neversieze?
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Old 10-11-2005   #8  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetglower
I figured it wont last, but I needed something for now. I dont want to strip another wheel stud. I have already had 4 replaced in the front and 1 in the rear. BTW, where di you get the neversize or is it neversieze?
Neversieze any autoparts store!
As far as affecting the torque readings, i dont drive an F1 racer. lol
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Old 10-11-2005   #9  
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I always spray mine up with wd-40 when i re-install them.
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Old 10-11-2005   #10  
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I always spray mine up with wd-40 when i re-install them.
Don't hurt, don't help. better than nothing!
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Old 10-11-2005   #11  
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You aren't supposed to grease, lubricate, nor put antiseize compound on the studs. If you do, the preload value is going to be higher than what the torque wrench registers. The torque values given are for dry studs. The studs won't strip as long as you tighten it to the appropriate torque value and don't use an impact gun to tighten it on.
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Old 10-11-2005   #12  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacheon
You aren't supposed to grease, lubricate, nor put antiseize compound on the studs. If you do, the preload value is going to be higher than what the torque wrench registers. The torque values given are for dry studs. The studs won't strip as long as you tighten it to the appropriate torque value and don't use an impact gun to tighten it on.
so basically you are saying since I used the wd-40 on the studs and the nuts, that when I torqued the lugs to 80 ft. lbs, I may have actually tightened them more then that? Will they have any problem with backing out since there is grease on them (the WD-40)?
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Old 10-11-2005   #13  
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who uses torque wrenches......lol
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Old 10-11-2005   #14  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacheon
You aren't supposed to grease, lubricate, nor put antiseize compound on the studs. If you do, the preload value is going to be higher than what the torque wrench registers. The torque values given are for dry studs. The studs won't strip as long as you tighten it to the appropriate torque value and don't use an impact gun to tighten it on.
Torque values are also for stock rims. I don't have stock rims!\And i never torque wheel lugs! So there!
(you really think the guys at Honda or any tire shop torque lugs?)
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Old 10-11-2005   #15  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pon55
Torque values are also for stock rims. I don't have stock rims!\And i never torque wheel lugs! So there!
(you really think the guys at Honda or any tire shop torque lugs?)
They all use toqure wrenches at the dealerships and tire shops in Vancouver, BC. There is stiff competition here among dealerships and tire shops so people are very picky about how work is done. I've had tires repaired or replaced Costco, Honda, and Fountain tire shops in this city. Not only do they use torque wrenches, but they also use nitrogen to fill the tires.
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Old 10-11-2005   #16  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacheon
They all use toqure wrenches at the dealerships and tire shops in Vancouver, BC. There is stiff competition here among dealerships and tire shops so people are very picky about how work is done. I've had tires repaired or replaced Costco, Honda, and Fountain tire shops in this city. Not only do they use torque wrenches, but they also use nitrogen to fill the tires.
WOW you guy are lucky. NO
Around here we have a-holes with airguns! (tighter is better)
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Old 10-11-2005   #17  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetglower
so basically you are saying since I used the wd-40 on the studs and the nuts, that when I torqued the lugs to 80 ft. lbs, I may have actually tightened them more then that? Will they have any problem with backing out since there is grease on them (the WD-40)?
If you own a torque wrench, use it properly. That means knowing the difference between dry and wet torque values, and what preload is. The bolt is actually elastic so if you are using it with lubricant, you're actually stretching the bolt stud beyond what it was designed for.
This is a link for more information about fasteners.
http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182851-1.html

Last edited by tacheon; 10-11-2005 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 10-11-2005   #18  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacheon
If you own a torque wrench, use it properly. That means knowing the difference between dry and wet torque values, and what preload is. The bolt is actually elastic so if you are using it with lubricant, you're actually stretching the bolt stud beyond what it was designed for.
This is a link for more information about fasteners.
http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182851-1.html
Are you and engineer? Sound like one! Most peps on here don't even own a TR much less use it!
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Old 10-11-2005   #19  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pon55
WOW you guy are lucky. NO
Around here we have a-holes with airguns! (tighter is better)
Thats a shame. *sigh* I cringe everytime I see or hear about people using impact guns to tighten lug nuts. The smaller mechanic shops here ram the lugnuts on with impact guns... I'd pay more to have things done the right way.
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Old 10-11-2005   #20  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pon55
Are you and engineer? Sound like one! Most peps on here don't even own a TR much less use it!
Not an engineer. I have a B. Sc. in cell and molecular biology. I learned about torque and preload in my first year physics stuff many years ago. Torque wrenches aren't too expensive $35 CAD will get you a clicker type, $12-15 will buy you a beam type.
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Old 10-11-2005   #21  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacheon
Not an engineer. I have a B. Sc. in cell and molecular biology. I learned about torque and preload in my first year physics stuff many years ago. Torque wrenches aren't too expensive $35 CAD will get you a clicker type, $12-15 will buy you a beam type.
Well, basicaly we are divided by what is and what should be!
(usually don't delve into the past, but I replaced the heads on the RAMCHARGERS AA fuel dragester in the 80s with Chrysler techs. No TR, just crank it down- Ran a 7 second run-4 times!)
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Old 10-11-2005   #22  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pon55
Well, basicaly we are divided by what is and what should be!
(usually don't delve into the past, but I replaced the heads on the RAMCHARGERS AA fuel dragester in the 80s with Chrysler techs. No TR, just crank it down- Ran a 7 second run-4 times!)
My foot is as good of a torque wrench as I get for my lugs! haha...

Pon, you're old
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Old 10-11-2005   #23  
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well thanks for the info tacheon. I spent the past hour removing all 4 wheels and cleaning the threads off with brake cleaner and the same with the lug nuts. I guess this will be a lesson to me. After reading that link, I see botl tightening in a whole new way.
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Old 10-11-2005   #24  
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You're welcome. Isn't playing with a torque wrench great fun?
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Old 10-12-2005   #25  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacheon
You're welcome. Isn't playing with a torque wrench great fun?
I guess so. I always torque most nuts and bolts when installing them. And yes I hate when I take my car to get new tires or balanced and the idiots at discounttire put them on with an air gun, then when they pull out the torque wrench, each one already clicks on the first try.
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Old 10-12-2005   #26  
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Once the lugs are overdone one time, they are done for. That elastic thing Tacheon is talking about, it's like a rubber band for metals, they do indeed strech. The metals used in both the stud and nut are designed to strech at the specific torque. Once a stupid shopover tightens them, it looses the elastic force. Think of a rubber band, you can strech it and strech it and it will go back to the normal most of the time. But if you strech the rubber band to far (read putting to much torque on the the lug nuts) and then the rubber band doesn't go back to the orginal shape. Same with the lug nuts, if they get over torqued, the threads will not be able to deform properly. I can get much more complicated, or you can just take my word for it.

I ran into this when a shop put over 120 ft-lb torque (that was as high as my TR would go) on the lug nuts, the lugnuts where contstantly falling off because they would not lock on to the studs and I had to replace every stud and lug nut on the car to get everything to stay together.
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Old 10-12-2005   #27  
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Oh yeah, if you hit them with WD-40 to get rid or rust, you should be fine, specially if you let them dry.
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Old 10-12-2005   #28  
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see It wouldnt be so bad to replace a wheel stud now and then, but when one breaks on the front, the hub has to be removed and that is a pain since you really need an impact to remove the axle nut. And then a press to remove the hub from the knuckle. The rear is easy, knock out and replace.

Most of the ones that have broken on me were in the front. And it isnt cheap to fix.
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Old 10-12-2005   #29  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetglower
see It wouldnt be so bad to replace a wheel stud now and then, but when one breaks on the front, the hub has to be removed and that is a pain since you really need an impact to remove the axle nut. And then a press to remove the hub from the knuckle. The rear is easy, knock out and replace.

Most of the ones that have broken on me were in the front. And it isnt cheap to fix.
You have open or closed lugnuts?
If they are the open type, seal the end with silicon seal.
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Old 10-12-2005   #30  
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yup... the front ones suck... luckly for me on my older civic, you could wigle the front ones out and jam them back in, but it was still a pain.
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