Synthetic Oil Question. - Page 2 - Honda Civic Forum


Fuel, Oil, Cleaners & Other Maintenance Extending the life of your Civic requires the proper fuel, oil, and cleaners, along with other regularly scheduled maintenance.

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Old 09-20-2005   #31  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cg95660
^^You are saying the same things as me. What do you think hard driving will do to the engine..........create heat(ie. friction) and it will break down a thinner oil before a thicker especially if it is hot out side. Plus a thicker oil does have less splash ability it does not just sit in the oil pan. When I had my datsun engine built the builder told me to run whatever i wanted just be sure to break it in with straight 30w. The 5 people you know that have blown a motor and the dealer wont fix it just from the oils weight have a lawsuit on there hands. If one oil weight is what they state or it will void your warranty then it would have that statement written all over the place like your manual or the oil cap and when you go to the dealer and tell them you change your own oil they would say make sure you run said weight or you are out of luck. Btw I bet your friends had alot of other stuff done to there rides and the dealer just used the oil as a excuse!

Yeah, if you drive car hard you will break down the oil faster. But you said, or I thought you said, that synthetic oil is lighter than dino oil, and that's not true. And for the oil to break down due to heat, that means it has to be heat soaked, so unless you are running about 15psi on a D17, you probably are not making enough heat to break the oil down in a normal car.

The people that had their claims turned down had no mods. 4 of them where from Ford, I have an F150 for my horses and it specifically says to use either Motorcraft 5w20 oil or a full synthetic 5w20 oil. Anything else will void the warranty, it's right in the owners manual, and they continued to put 15w40 in it because their early '90's Fords ran best on that. I know my F150 has oil injectors under the pistons, to thick of oil will make it so that they can not function properly.

The 5th person had a Civic, and tried to clean the engine out using a thicker synthetic oil for 10 minutes, 20w50 if I remember right (not sure though, I know it was tranny). But tranny fluid in the enginge is an old trick that worked well on muscle cars. Anyway, after he drianed that oil out, he put in 10w30 and about two weeks after that the engine was dead, all the oil leaked out. The dealer said the thicker oil caused excessive pressure on internal parts and hoses, they ran an oil analysis and found the hot oil weight was close to 40 because all the tranny fluid had not been flushed out.
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Old 09-20-2005   #32  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChronicReflux
i wasnt saying you CANT switch....just that once you go to synthetic you have to step back down with the blend before you go straight to regular motor oil...thats all....and you dont HAVE to ....its just HIGHLY rec.....thats all

and thats just if you ever do switch back (which you shouldn't)

Yeah, you said you can switch, but going directly from syn to dino won't hurt your car from any persepective I've seen. I just have not seen any reason to step down, but to each our own

I personally use a blend, so it's no big deal for me to go with either.
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Old 09-20-2005   #33  
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I stick with 5w30 Royal Purple but that's cause I regularly top 100 mph on the autobahn. Probably switching to 5w20 once the snow hits. Unless you push the car hard on a regular basis I would recommend staying with 5w20.
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Old 09-20-2005   #34  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gangrel138
I stick with 5w30 Royal Purple but that's cause I regularly top 100 mph on the autobahn. Probably switching to 5w20 once the snow hits. Unless you push the car hard on a regular basis I would recommend staying with 5w20.
If you like 5w30, you can stick with that in the winter. The only reason to change oil in the winter is to make it easier for your car to start, and the only number that deals with start up is the fist number, so going to 0w30 (if you can find that) would be available. Other wise your 5w30 will work okay for you.

This is just a personal opinion, but Royal Purple is excellent oil to start with, but tests have shown that the TBN drops quickly on it showing for some reason it is hot stable for very long.

This is an excerpt from a respected tripolist:
"Now, what about the other top synoils? Well, they were not tested here, but certainly the industry giants were. Based on tests I have run or seen from sources I trust in the industry, Red Line, NEO, Motul, and others would likely score in the top quartile of these tests. The tests anmd UOA's I have seen for Royal Purple have never shown it to be other than mid-tier, competitive with the synoil or GIII mineral oils from the major companies."

You can find that statement at the end of this post:
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=169852

You can use whatever, just thought I would share.
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Old 09-20-2005   #35  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrfish007
Yeah, you said you can switch, but going directly from syn to dino won't hurt your car from any persepective I've seen. I just have not seen any reason to step down, but to each our own

I personally use a blend, so it's no big deal for me to go with either.
same here
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Old 09-20-2005   #36  
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1. if you want to switch.....make sure that ur not going back

2. i was using 0W20 all year around...until i felt that during high reving in hot summer day, it's making an unusually loud noise......then, i switched to M1 5W20.....it's smoother and less noise...

3. 0W20 has been discontinued by M1. it's replaced by M1 5W20.

NOTE: you might want to replace the new synthetic oil sooner after the switch.....probably about 1500 miles? therefore, u can flush out the remaining "mixed" oil on ur engine...

Last edited by zen_master; 09-21-2005 at 07:55 AM.
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Old 09-20-2005   #37  
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What oil filter is good for M1 synthetic oil? The most popular oil filter in my area I c in all stores are the regular Fram filters and the OEM in the dealer. If I would to go with the regular Fram filters, is it ok?
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Old 09-20-2005   #38  
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for those who do not care about very long drain intervals, the havoline GF4 is a superior dino oil, and in fact, tests higher than most synthetics in certain aspects.

you could easily go 7500 miles between oil changes with that oil.
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Old 09-21-2005   #39  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDragon7
What oil filter is good for M1 synthetic oil? The most popular oil filter in my area I c in all stores are the regular Fram filters and the OEM in the dealer. If I would to go with the regular Fram filters, is it ok?

The OEM one is better than the Fram (yes I know they are both made by Fram, but they are different). OEM is good enough for a 5,000 mile oil change IMO. There are better filters, but they cost far more, OEM filters can be had for about $3-4, to get better than that you're in the $8-$10+ and personally that makes my oil changes way to expensive for the frequency I do them.
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Old 09-21-2005   #40  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDragon7
What oil filter is good for M1 synthetic oil? The most popular oil filter in my area I c in all stores are the regular Fram filters and the OEM in the dealer. If I would to go with the regular Fram filters, is it ok?
OEM honda filter is the way to go. even though it's made by "honeywell," it has different spec compared to the fram filter....

don't forget to ask for washer replacement from the dealer.....

they cost about $15 for 3 of em....here in BUffalo, NY.
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Old 09-21-2005   #41  
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If you search around you can pick them cheaper online....

FYI, honeywell owns Fram (incase you where wondering)
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Old 09-21-2005   #42  
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straight 50w for me....i like the nice chatter you get on start up, haha j/k guys had to get in on this.
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Old 09-21-2005   #43  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiTurbinEsDerty
I have about 70,000 miles on my 2002 Civic EX and I was wondering if its still possible to use Synthetic oil?
yeah, you could switch. What would be the issue?
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Old 09-21-2005   #44  
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Are the OEM filters good for synthetic?
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Old 09-21-2005   #45  
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^yes sir. it's the best bet. aftermarket filter are too expensive.....we're talking about good brands, here...lol...not fram.
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Old 09-21-2005   #46  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S2000man01
for those who do not care about very long drain intervals, the havoline GF4 is a superior dino oil, and in fact, tests higher than most synthetics in certain aspects.

you could easily go 7500 miles between oil changes with that oil.
Website showing comparison of my 3 runs between Castrol GTX, Valvoline, & Havoline. All with about 4,300 miles on each.
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Old 09-22-2005   #47  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm897
Website showing comparison of my 3 runs between Castrol GTX, Valvoline, & Havoline. All with about 4,300 miles on each.

Good info for dino oils. I take those oils where the cheap versions of each brand?
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Old 09-22-2005   #48  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrfish007
Good info for dino oils. I take those oils where the cheap versions of each brand?
All three were dino oils (not synthetic) in 5w20 viscosity. They were all SM-GF4 rated oils.
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Old 09-22-2005   #49  
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I found this quote interesting:

Quote:
I've long suspected this is why the TBN of very high moly formulations seems to drop pretty fast.
I'm gonna look for into that because I use Max Life in my GSR (that has 130k miles) specifically because of the high moly count. I guess I'll need to check the Ph of my oil at 3,4 and 5k to see how it is doing.
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Old 09-22-2005   #50  
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if u want to switch to synthetic oil just do an engine flush first...get a bottle from autozone or pepboys and use the one that u just put in let idle for 10 mins or something like that but drain the oil while its hot... than plug everything back up, change ur filter and fill with synthetic...

i use AMSOIL 0w-30 full synthetic oil and it goes for 30,000 miles with a filter change at 12,500 miles
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Old 09-22-2005   #51  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragingSPAM
if u want to switch to synthetic oil just do an engine flush first...get a bottle from autozone or pepboys and use the one that u just put in let idle for 10 mins or something like that but drain the oil while its hot... than plug everything back up, change ur filter and fill with synthetic...

i use AMSOIL 0w-30 full synthetic oil and it goes for 30,000 miles with a filter change at 12,500 miles
no oil lasts 30,000 miles. Otherwise I have never heard of any oil lasting 30,000 miles. Are you sure you didnt mean 3000 miles? If you kept oil in your car for 30K miles, your engine would have so much sludge buildup after the additives and detergents in the oil broke down.
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Old 09-22-2005   #52  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragingSPAM
if u want to switch to synthetic oil just do an engine flush first...
there is no need for an engine flush.
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Old 09-22-2005   #53  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrfish007
I found this quote interesting:



I'm gonna look for into that because I use Max Life in my GSR (that has 130k miles) specifically because of the high moly count. I guess I'll need to check the Ph of my oil at 3,4 and 5k to see how it is doing.
FWIW I have seen opposing information regarding his statement.
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Old 09-22-2005   #54  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S2000man01
FWIW I have seen opposing information regarding his statement.

Yeah me too. I'm going to look into both sides when I get time and see if I can debunk one of them
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