robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

In 10k I will be at 60k. I want to prepare for what I am going to have to do

Flush radiator and refill
Flush brake fluid - replace with ATE Superblue
Change MTF - replace with Honda MTF
Change rear pads - replace with Honda pads
Change clutch fluid - what should I replace it with??
Change power steering fluid - change to redline??

Oil changes are on a different schedule so what else do you suggest? Belts are good to 100k right? Plugs were changed at 20k with Iridium. What else? S2kman??

ImPulse

iTrader: (32)

no1 cares about your car

chrisleecool

iTrader: (18)

nah...j/k
I'm about to hit 60k soon
and i have no clue how to prepare ...

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

bump...anyone?

S2000man01

iTrader: (1)

If your manual says to change those fluids, then you should change them. Brake pads don't need to be changed unless they are actually low.

As for what fluids, honestly, your civic manual will tell you exactly what to use. There are specifications set by the API for example and other such agencies, and honda will specify which fluids to use.

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

bah, i lost my manual! haha

I was thinking about upgrading powersteering and clutch fluids if it won't hurt the car, because of autox. Rear shoes need to be changed. Front pads have plenty of time to go. Have to factor in the abuse from autox, so I want fluids to be good. I know MTF should be Honda.

riceburnrex

iTrader: (2)

Flush radiator and refill

-Yes

Flush brake fluid - replace with ATE Superblue

-Good choice

Change MTF - replace with Honda MTF

- Actually, use Redline MTF. Your transmission will shift better and last longer.

Change rear pads - replace with Honda pads

- Only if needed.

Change clutch fluid - what should I replace it with??

-DOT 4 brake fluid, make sure you flush and bleed it properly

Change power steering fluid - change to redline??

-Honda power steering fluid is just fine

Oil changes are on a different schedule so what else do you suggest?

- Stick with what you've been doing, around 3000 miles

Belts are good to 100k right?

- Look at them, if they look worn or are starting to fray, replace them. Gates belts work great as well as Honda belts

Plugs were changed at 20k with Iridium.

-NGK's are cheaper and work just as well. Just use NGK next time

What else?

- Tires, obviously. Alignment. Fuel filter if it hasn't been done already, check your intake air filter (clean it if it;s a K&N)

You should be good to go after that.

DestnationUnkwn

iTrader: (2)

Put superblue in your clutch too, it uses the same fluid your brakes do why buy different fluids just use your leftover superblue to do the clutch too.

HondaLuver

iTrader: (17)

get a new engine, hehe, thats what i did at 60k...

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

Thanks. Oil is every 7500k with Amsoil synthetic. Alignment is currently on the fritz since I had my coils taken off, but I get alignments mroe often than I probably need....damn autox. haha. Never thought of the fuel filter.

I was always told not to use redline in our trannies because the sychros will go bad...?

Skunk2ner

iTrader: (1)

transmission fluid doesn't need to be changed till 120k miles (according to chiltons). but since you autox and drive hard, i suppose it would be nice to give a change.

check belts and hoses for wear.

scansel912

iTrader: (4)

According to honda, coolant doesnt' need to be changed until 120,000 miles.

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

Ok, well my two questions are

What power steering fluid should I use? Honda or Redline...

What MTF should I use? Honda or Redline...

I have been told conflicting messages. Thank you.

riceburnrex

iTrader: (2)

Dad's commuter 2002 ex with 145k miles has used Redline for most of it's life, tranny is perfect. My 01 turbo that auto-x's and road course races has had redline since the day after I bought it, no problems. Honda says not to, but I haven't seen anyone using Redline have any problems that would be related to the fluid. A lot of the local road course guys that use various year Hondas swear by Redline MTF, same with the Porsche and Miata guys I race with.

Destinationunknown- The only reason I don't say to use ATE superblue in the clutch is that it is much more expensive than DOT4, and you have to use a decent amount to completely flush out the original fluid and bleed. The clutch line is not a line that you have to worry about boiling the fluid like the brakes (unless you ride the clutch like no other). Super Blue will work, but it's not necessary. But if you have enough left over- by all means use it.

S2000man01

iTrader: (1)

redline is good, but i think redline doesn't do well with CF synchros, which i dont think the civic has.

so use whichever you want. if you have not heard from anyone who actually USES redline tranny fluid then stick with honda.

CapYoda

iTrader: (30)

if u lost ur manual. get the info at honda's owner link.

https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/login.asp

i'm gonna go with sticking with honda fluid too (although some of them are just another with honda name on it) for ur civic. they're not too overpriced and are easier to obtain.

you know, your driving condition and driving habits factors into your 60k matainenance/tune up too.

Jrfish007

iTrader: (3)

Not for me, I work about 5 miles from Summit Auto Racing

If you've been autox, check all you suspension parts. If you can try to get it up on a rack and look carefully at the bushings and make sure nothing looks like it's starting to bend or crack (tie rods, control arms, blah blah blah). But I would do that more often then 60k if you're autox

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

Rears are poly bushings, control arms are fine, getting new tie rods, etc. I look at my suspension way too much!!

Thanks everyone for your help!!!

blouisgod

iTrader: (14)

60,000 mi/96,000 km/3 yrs Scheduled Maintenance

Replace engine oil.


Rotate tires (follow pattern on page 241 of your owner's manual).


Replace engine oil filter.


Inspect front and rear brakes.


Check parking brake adjustment.


Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box and boots.


Inspect suspension components.


Inspect driveshaft boots.


Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS).


Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids, and check for leaks.


Inspect cooling system hoses and connections.


#Inspect exhaust system.


#Inspect fuel lines and connections.


#: See information on maintenance and emissions warranty, last column, page 195 of your owner's manual.


Inspect and adjust drive belts.


Replace air conditioning filter*3.


*3: See air conditioning filter on page 235 of your owner's manual for replacement information under special driving conditions.


Replace air cleaner element every 30,000 mi/48,000 km (independent of time).


Replace transmission fluid (CVT)*2.


*2: Replace at 60,000 mi (96,000 km) or 36 months, then every 40,000 mi (64,000 km) or 24 months.




Check engine oil and coolant at each fuel stop.


Check and adjust valve clearance, cold engine, if noisy.



Oh damn - valve clearance. i hate doing that ****.

DaddyFatSacks

My car has almost 45,000 miles. Just today I had oil, anti freeze, brake fluid, filter, rear rum adjust, e-brake adjust, enigine valves adjusted, and trottle body coolant bypass. My friend said the valves were loose. Honda sent me a free $100 gift certificate, so I used Mobil 1 oil, Honda anti freeze and brake fluid, ilter and it was done on the dealers BP brake machine. Cars running like brand new.

supz

Did your friend do that maintenance for you? If so, any idea how difficult adjusting the valve clearance was?

Jeff B

I would recommend sticking with OE belts. I have heard some bad stuff about Gates from my mechanic friend and he has been working on honda/toyotas for 20 years...

thefivespeeder

iTrader: (6)

Isn't that a bitch to do because it is in the tank, and most likely not need? jus/ what I heard, damn, I my civ is comming on 60K too!

badodyssey

go to www.honda.com click on the 'ownerlink' link and register. it will give you all the info on your car and what's due at what time!!