Phillip Plypots

So Once I pop the transmission from engine, I can't raise it up and out? Or even better, just slowly lower it out the bottom? Look at this pic, Its not mine but someone else on this forum, Looks like they didn't remove pressure plate and flywheel. Also, I removed the entire trans mount, not just the bracket like the DIY said. I have a lot more clearance.

Colin42

I doubt it will go out from the bottom, unless you lower the subframe. You removed the thermostat housing right? The tranny goes out the top just have to spin and flip the tranny to get the right angle for it to come out. Grab a helper if you can.

Phillip Plypots

Thermostat housing? The DIY didn't mention anything about that. Could you look at the 25th post in this thread? There's a picture I took and posted that shows the water passage disconnected. Isn't the Thermostat housing on the water passage? If it is, then I guess I'm okay.

The only picture I've posted in this thread that wasn't my own was the picture in post 31. Is that why you asked about the housing? if so, that pic is not my car.

Colin42

I meant water passage, couldn't remember the other name

Phillip Plypots

Transmission is out!!

Colin42

Great Success!

Phillip Plypots

Ended up destroying a ball joint when popping the driverside and tore the boot on the passenger side ball joint, already got 2 replacements, just gotta get a Ball joint press. Autozone has a loan a tool program, pay full price and return it when your done for a full refund. Also ended up tearing the hose from the radiator to the water passage, so that will need replacing. Actually, what hoses should be replaced, I'm at almost 80k miles and have never replaced anything, other than sparkplugs, brakes, and oil. Since my car is in pieces, what maintenance and servicing should I perform?

Colin42

check all the other hoses, belts, vacuum lines. Is your front engine mount broken? they usually are. check your control arm bushings as well. could replace the rear main seal also

figure where the oil is leaking from here

Phillip Plypots

Ok. I need help! Cracked the Transmission, followed all steps, but when it came to lifting the mainshaft and gears out, the two washers fell off the main shaft while setting it down on a shop towel. I don't know which washer goes back on the shaft first when reassembling? Although the two washers look the same, one is actually a hair smaller and almost looks like its beveled. My tranny is in pieces until I know for 100% which way these washers go back.

Also, I can't find a brass drift/punch tool to tap the new bearing back in. I went to Lowes, Home Depot, Harbor Freight, and Walmart; no brass.

Colin42

Use the old bearing to tap in the new one. No clue about the washers unfortunately, maybe find a parts diagram and see if that shows anything?

Phillip Plypots

The bearing in the picture is making a rattling noise. no other bearing in the transmission make this noise except the Inputshaft bearing that I already tapped into place. SHould I replace this, and how hard is it to get off the countershaft?

Phillip Plypots

Ok. a month later and the car is all back together. The only thing left to do is fill the transmission and radiator with the proper fluids. If anyone has been keeping up with my progress, I'm concerned about about my pic in post 25. I siphoned out as much old radiator fluid as possible. I did NOT drain anymore using the the drain plug near the oil filter.

Once I get my car off the jack stands the car will be level. I guess I'll fill the transmission from the fill bolt until it's filled, and then tighten it down. Next up is the drained radiator. How should I proceed? I have the right fluid, but I'm not sure the way to go about filling it (radiator or overflow?) turning on the car, air in the line, how much to put in..... Please look at post 25 on this thread to see the picture of how the hoses and block are pretty much empty.

Colin42

fill the rad as much as you can and fill the bottle, it would be beneficial to keep the front of the car elevated to help evacuate the air out of the system, start the car and allow it to get up to temperature. then shut it off and add more coolant if needed. becareful opening the rad cap when its hot, i just left it off when i did it.

Phillip Plypots

ok. Went to start the car and when I turn the key all the way to start, sounds like the starter is clicking. click click click click click....... Can't get it to start. Is the flywheel stuck, I know when I was turning the flywheel to get bolts on and off, it was really, REALLY hard to turn. What should I do?

Colin42

whats the condition of the battery like? maybe it needs a boost? my flywheel kept spinning on me and i had to wedge a screwdriver in the teeth to keep it in one spot. can you turn the crank pulley with a breaker bar and socket?

Phillip Plypots

nevermind, just needed a jump. Its running but I can't get hot air from the heater, also, seems like its not pulling anything at all from the overflow. here is what I did

filled rad and overflow to full leaving rad cap off
started car turned on heater to full
let car run for 10-15 and still hasn't taken anyfrom the overflow.... and no hot air


Just turned the car off. should I fill the rad again?

Colin42

is the front end elevated? did the temp gauge ever move while you were running the engine?

Phillip Plypots

Ok, I went back after letting the car cool down, Filled the rad to top it off, put on radiator cap, started the car and put on the AC. after 5 min the car was ice cold inside and the temp gauge was in the middle between hot and cold. let it run 5 more min, AC full blast and the temp gauge went up to about 75%. I felt the tubing and it was hot and feeling like fluids were moving throughout. Decided to take it for a drive. As soon as the car moved the temp went from 75% back down to 45% and hasn't moved from there since driving for a half an hour. Is it okay? should I put more coolant in? The coolant in the overflow is still there, exact same amount. Don't know if thats good or bad?

Colin42

sounds like its ok, maybe double check the rad level next time the car is cool

Phillip Plypots

Just an update. This morning decided to pop the hood and check fluids, when I noticed that the rad overflow was almost empty. That means the radiator needed to use the overflow for coolant, which mean the system is working! I went ahead and filled up the radiator again, only took about 2 cups worth, and then filled up the overlflow to full. I think I'm okay, right?

The cars clutch feels great, all the gears feel tight with no slipping or grinding. One thing I did notice while driving, there seems to be a whirly noise whenever letting off the gas to coast. The sound could be from the rust built up on the rotors and needs to be "braked" off.

Honestly I can't believe I've pulled it off by myself!! probably why it took a month. I just want to give everyone a big, THANK YOU for helping me through this MASSIVE undertaking!!

GusBuz

Doesn't it feel amazing knowing you did such a big job yourself! and also that you didn't break anything lol

Just make sure to check your fluids every so often and you are golden

dnmacdon

Congrats on a job well done!

What happened in the end with the countershaft bearing? Did you end up replacing it? How did that go?

What did that turn out to be?

Thanks!

Kingcredible

I joined the forum just to thank you for posting this DIY, When my ISB goes I know where to look. Thank you!!

Kingcredible

Hey man it's almost been a year after your clutch job. How is your car doing? is the ISB noise gone? does the clutch still feel sturdy? I'll be doing this job my self soon and want to know how it worked out for you

antony1103

Is the KHC10 clutch kit part number correct? Rock auto is saying KHC08.

Colin42

KHC08 is for D series
KHC10 is for K series

M240B

RockAuto has "input shaft bearing" for the automatic transmission but I don't see it in the manual transmission section. Are they the same for automatic and manual? Awesome guide by the way, gave me the confidence to do it myself.

Colin42

I believe Honda is your only option for the bearing. You could try contacting transmission shops in your area.

M240B

Decided to replace the rear main seal since the transmission is already off but I can't get the bracket off without lowering the oil pan which I am using to support the engine. I knew I should have left it alone. Would and engine support bar work to support the engine or should I just go buy a hoist from harbor freight?

Colin42

Engine support bar would work