DIY: Aluminum Door Sills
07-23-2002
#1
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DIY: Aluminum Door Sills
Materials:
5/16" or 3/8" Stainless Steel Screws
2" x 1/8" Thick Aluminum Bar
Tools:
Metal File
Jig Saw or Hack Saw
Sander or Sand Paper
Rubbing Compound or Steel Wool
Quick Clamps
Socket Set
Drill and Drill Bits
Countersinking Bit
These are the little screws that I bought for my head unit. I haven't tested them to see if I chose the right ones yet. I have over a hundred of them, so I chose to use them for tis project. As you can see, size 8, thread size 32, flat head, phillips screw.
The first thing you should do is take off the stock plastic door sills. We will be working with them outside of the car. That is unless you want to risk drilling into the metal? To be able to take them off (at least in the coupe) we have to take off the lower seatbelt attachment bar. Simply unbolt it using the proper socket.
Let's start on the passenger side. First take off the small piece that is closer to the front of the car. Here is what it looks like underneath. It's only held in place with two white clips. You could be able to figure out how to take it off by looking at this picture.
Next is the long piece. See all the clips? You'll have to be careful not to damage them. Don't pry with too much force. Remember where each clip is and try to get them all to pop out before you take the whole piece off. The end near the plastic panel in the back will be tricky to get out and even trickier to get back in.
This is what it looks like under the small piece.
This is what it looks like under the large piece.
Now for the drivers side. First take off the cover for the lock. Then take out that golden screw.
Now, what I did was push up this lock mechanism to disengage it from the lower portion. Otherwise I think that it would get in the way when trying to remove this plastic door sill on the drivers side.
This is what the small driver's side piece looks like.
This is what the large driver's side piece looks like.
Now that you've got that stock door sill out of the car you can use it as a template for the aluminum door sill. Simply cut the aluminum bar to the right length. Then round the corners so that they match the rounded corners of the stock door sill. Use a file to do this and compare it to the stock door sill by placing the aluminum bar on top of it.
After that's done take two clamps and clamp the aluminum bar to the stock door sill. Take care not to clamp down on one of the little white snaps on the underside of that plastic piece. I used paper towels here so that I would not scratch up the aluminum. I was also comparing it here in this picture to see what it would look like.
Now take a drill with that countersinking bit and drill holes through the aluminum and the plastic. My countersinking bit already had a regular drill bit on top of it. I used a somewhat broken up pattern so that the eyes would be fooled and not see any imperfections in the hole placement. Just be sure not to drill down too far. One mistake could cost you the project.
After the drilling has bean done you're ready to sand the piece down. Sand the rough edges, sand the countersunk edges, sand everything. Start at a lower grit, then move up to a higher grit. I finally used rubbing compound to polish the piece. I ended up with a nice satin sheen. I had to wash the piece down to remove the dirty rubbing compound. You could wet sand as well.
Then simply screw the piece down with those stainless steel screws and you're ready to go. Just reinstall everything first. I guess it might be easier to reinstall everything first and then screw down those pieces. Although if you buy the longer screws you can use washers and nuts on the underside to further secure the piece. I will make this switch later.
5/16" or 3/8" Stainless Steel Screws
2" x 1/8" Thick Aluminum Bar
Tools:
Metal File
Jig Saw or Hack Saw
Sander or Sand Paper
Rubbing Compound or Steel Wool
Quick Clamps
Socket Set
Drill and Drill Bits
Countersinking Bit
These are the little screws that I bought for my head unit. I haven't tested them to see if I chose the right ones yet. I have over a hundred of them, so I chose to use them for tis project. As you can see, size 8, thread size 32, flat head, phillips screw.
The first thing you should do is take off the stock plastic door sills. We will be working with them outside of the car. That is unless you want to risk drilling into the metal? To be able to take them off (at least in the coupe) we have to take off the lower seatbelt attachment bar. Simply unbolt it using the proper socket.
Let's start on the passenger side. First take off the small piece that is closer to the front of the car. Here is what it looks like underneath. It's only held in place with two white clips. You could be able to figure out how to take it off by looking at this picture.
Next is the long piece. See all the clips? You'll have to be careful not to damage them. Don't pry with too much force. Remember where each clip is and try to get them all to pop out before you take the whole piece off. The end near the plastic panel in the back will be tricky to get out and even trickier to get back in.
This is what it looks like under the small piece.
This is what it looks like under the large piece.
Now for the drivers side. First take off the cover for the lock. Then take out that golden screw.
Now, what I did was push up this lock mechanism to disengage it from the lower portion. Otherwise I think that it would get in the way when trying to remove this plastic door sill on the drivers side.
This is what the small driver's side piece looks like.
This is what the large driver's side piece looks like.
Now that you've got that stock door sill out of the car you can use it as a template for the aluminum door sill. Simply cut the aluminum bar to the right length. Then round the corners so that they match the rounded corners of the stock door sill. Use a file to do this and compare it to the stock door sill by placing the aluminum bar on top of it.
After that's done take two clamps and clamp the aluminum bar to the stock door sill. Take care not to clamp down on one of the little white snaps on the underside of that plastic piece. I used paper towels here so that I would not scratch up the aluminum. I was also comparing it here in this picture to see what it would look like.
Now take a drill with that countersinking bit and drill holes through the aluminum and the plastic. My countersinking bit already had a regular drill bit on top of it. I used a somewhat broken up pattern so that the eyes would be fooled and not see any imperfections in the hole placement. Just be sure not to drill down too far. One mistake could cost you the project.
After the drilling has bean done you're ready to sand the piece down. Sand the rough edges, sand the countersunk edges, sand everything. Start at a lower grit, then move up to a higher grit. I finally used rubbing compound to polish the piece. I ended up with a nice satin sheen. I had to wash the piece down to remove the dirty rubbing compound. You could wet sand as well.
Then simply screw the piece down with those stainless steel screws and you're ready to go. Just reinstall everything first. I guess it might be easier to reinstall everything first and then screw down those pieces. Although if you buy the longer screws you can use washers and nuts on the underside to further secure the piece. I will make this switch later.
07-23-2002
#4
DIY King
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Rep Power: 394 No such thing. You'de have to anodize it yourself. Hey, good idea! I might do that myself. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
Check this out: Anodizing Aluminum
Check this out: Anodizing Aluminum
07-23-2002
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Quote
[hr]hey grey are their door sills out for our car or we have to do something like you did[hr]
[hr]hey grey are their door sills out for our car or we have to do something like you did[hr]
07-23-2002
#11
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Rep Power: 394 Thanks for all the comments guys. The drivers side turned out even better since it was the 2nd one I made. I originally wanted to make them look eactly like the stock plastic sideskirts with those two grooves, but I'de need a milling machine for that. I was also thinking that drilling out holes and sticking in flat rubber washers might look good. Especially if I had pedals that looked like that. Anyway...
I'm not sure? I haven't seen any for coupe's. I've seen some for sedans that looked gross though.
Those are very nice. Are those CF or something? How much do they cost?
Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: 1siksivik
hey grey are their door sills out for our car or we have to do something like you did. great job by the way.
[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: 1siksivik
hey grey are their door sills out for our car or we have to do something like you did. great job by the way.
[hr]
Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: thx1138
First Grey, your sill looks very nice Much better then my OEM ones.
Don't they sell the OEMS ones in the US/Canada ?
[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: thx1138
First Grey, your sill looks very nice
Much better then my OEM ones.Don't they sell the OEMS ones in the US/Canada ?
[hr]
07-23-2002
#12
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Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: thx1138
First Grey, your sill looks very nice Much better then my OEM ones.
Don't they sell the OEMS ones in the US/Canada ?
[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: thx1138
First Grey, your sill looks very nice
Much better then my OEM ones.Don't they sell the OEMS ones in the US/Canada ?
[hr]
They're about $70. They're not CF. I think it's a very thin piece of alu, with a plastic coating. It's not screwed on, just stuck with some d-sided stuff. Up close, it looks more plastic than metal. A bit cheap, to be honest. But my car came with them in a complete package from the dealer. Like I said, yours look much cooler. Wouldn't it be cool if you drilled/CNC'ed the word Civic somewhere in the middle, and painted that part. Not easy though.
07-23-2002
#13
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Rep Power: 394 Yeah, that would be the ultimate. No CNC machine though! 
Then anodize it. Oh yeah, that would be nice.
I might save up for some anodizing equipment.
Shouldn't be more than $50. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
Then anodize it. Oh yeah, that would be nice.
I might save up for some anodizing equipment.
Shouldn't be more than $50. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
07-23-2002
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Rep Power: 0 Hey grey, Those look wicked nice!
I took a look at your ride this morning and saw those and was wondering when you were gonna put up a DIY.
I gotta see those in person. they look wicked nice from the pics.
Good job, keep up the good work.
-Lowtek
I took a look at your ride this morning and saw those and was wondering when you were gonna put up a DIY.
I gotta see those in person. they look wicked nice from the pics.
Good job, keep up the good work.
-Lowtek
07-23-2002
#16
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Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: Lowtek
Hey grey, Those look wicked nice!
I took a look at your ride this morning and saw those and was wondering when you were gonna put up a DIY.
I gotta see those in person. they look wicked nice from the pics.
Good job, keep up the good work.
-Lowtek[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Lowtek
Hey grey, Those look wicked nice!
I took a look at your ride this morning and saw those and was wondering when you were gonna put up a DIY.
I gotta see those in person. they look wicked nice from the pics.
Good job, keep up the good work.
-Lowtek[hr]
07-23-2002
#19
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Rep Power: 394 You would like me to make you some? I guess I could. I know that the countersinking drill bit I used is kinda dull, so I may have to buy a new one. Anyway, how does $50 shipped sound? The materials cost me $15 and it took me about 4 hours to make. I would make you the aluminum pieces with the countersunk holes and I would give you the screws. However, to install them you'de have to lay them on the stock door sills and drill the holes for the screws. Then just screw them in. You'de have to set up the drill to not drill too far though. about 1/4" will do. If you'de like to go for something like this then I guess I'de be up for it. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
07-24-2002
#21
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Rep Power: 394 Hey, not bad. Are those countersunk holes? How does it attach?
Mine only cost me about $20. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/IMG]
Mine only cost me about $20. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/IMG]
07-25-2002
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Yeah I think they are countersunk, The holes go all the way through with angled edges. I originall used some doubleside tape to hold them down, but it kept coming loose, so I just put some screw in them right through the plastic, its not going anywhere now.
11-11-2003
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Rep Power: 0 yeah i bought some off ebay too.. with civic written in them.. grey yours are nice too dont get me wrong.. just that with school and all i have no time
11-12-2003
#24
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Rep Power: 0 very nice... the sedan ones on ebay have nothing on yours. A good point though to etch a civic logo or even score some lines. I'll have to see about getting that on my list!
11-24-2003
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Rep Power: 0 Those are awesome.....i am thinking about buying the ones off ebay...but worried that they wont the coupe model.....but for the same price greys are bad ***.....AND you can take those to like things remembered....and have them engraved for pretty cheap...with whatever your heart desires....in any font and with any size......$ talks at places like that....i think it is only like 10 bucks per piece too!
