DIY: Diagnose manual Tranny Noises (and save some $$$)
#211
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does anybody know an easy way to get the snap ring back into the correct position when putting the case for the transmission back together?
#212
Re: DIY: Diagnose manual Tranny Noises (and save some $$$)
PM on upgrade to ISB
And for those who want to know how long you can go on a bad ISP, depends on how bad. I have been going for probably 80,000 miles. I am just about to check it out when I do my first clutch replacement -- at 228,000 miles, on the weekend of 9-17.
And for those who want to know how long you can go on a bad ISP, depends on how bad. I have been going for probably 80,000 miles. I am just about to check it out when I do my first clutch replacement -- at 228,000 miles, on the weekend of 9-17.
Last edited by matlock_50; 09-06-2011 at 03:04 PM. Reason: addition
#213
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Anybody doing this DIY take pics! An post em!
And for thisguy: I'd replace everything you can afford. You only get one crack at it, why not? Ive found transmission rebuild kits with all the bearings and seals for like...$325.
Commenting because I'm about to attempt it myself...
Also, the way a honda mechanic told me to check the ISB is to grab the tranny output shaft and try to shake or wiggle it. no movement=no problems. But mine was solid and still makes a grinding noise...so
And for thisguy: I'd replace everything you can afford. You only get one crack at it, why not? Ive found transmission rebuild kits with all the bearings and seals for like...$325.
Commenting because I'm about to attempt it myself...
Also, the way a honda mechanic told me to check the ISB is to grab the tranny output shaft and try to shake or wiggle it. no movement=no problems. But mine was solid and still makes a grinding noise...so
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i would of taken some pics but i dont know where my camera went but it really didnt end up being as difficult as it seems. take it out the top thats the easiest way but you will have to take off the thermostat housing. also when you open up the transmission be careful that the gearsets do not come apart you will most likely screw yourself if that happens have someone help you take them out so the gears dont fall off also to get the snap ring back on i took a 1/16 drill bit and drilled a hole in each end of the snap ring so i could use snapring pliers and that made it much easier to get back on the bearing on top of the countershaft
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Anybody doing this DIY take pics! An post em!
And for thisguy: I'd replace everything you can afford. You only get one crack at it, why not? Ive found transmission rebuild kits with all the bearings and seals for like...$325.
Commenting because I'm about to attempt it myself...
Also, the way a honda mechanic told me to check the ISB is to grab the tranny output shaft and try to shake or wiggle it. no movement=no problems. But mine was solid and still makes a grinding noise...so
And for thisguy: I'd replace everything you can afford. You only get one crack at it, why not? Ive found transmission rebuild kits with all the bearings and seals for like...$325.
Commenting because I'm about to attempt it myself...
Also, the way a honda mechanic told me to check the ISB is to grab the tranny output shaft and try to shake or wiggle it. no movement=no problems. But mine was solid and still makes a grinding noise...so
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www.performancebearing.com/
since i have had people ask me about this im putting up the website for it. talk to this guy he will be able to help you out with it
since i have had people ask me about this im putting up the website for it. talk to this guy he will be able to help you out with it
#217
Re: DIY: Diagnose manual Tranny Noises (and save some $$$)
I used this thread to diagnose my ISB problem. Though the problem was too complex for me, it was no problem for my friend. If anyone in the Chicago area is looking for some help with this issue, I can refer you to my friend. He'll charge less than a shop for the fix. Send me a pm if interested.
Last edited by kj4578; 01-08-2013 at 12:03 AM.
#218
Re: DIY: Diagnose manual Tranny Noises (and save some $$$)
i had a post here saying i had a clutch issue and members told me that the flywheel is warped, now i know, but i am waiting on a new clutch and lighter flywheel to come in and replace it anyway since the tranny has to come out.
but awesome post!!!!!!
but awesome post!!!!!!
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I just changed my ISB and it went great. I also changed the clutch while I was in there. No more noises!!!!!! The write-up on page 7 is really helpful but wanted to add one thing. When you pull the main and countershaft and all the gears, there is 2 washers that sit on top of the ISB. Dont forget those when you put it all back together. Also the needle bearing next to the ISB may come out of the case a little, so just tap it back in.
Last edited by blazen71; 07-26-2013 at 02:37 PM.
#220
Re: DIY: Diagnose manual Tranny Noises (and save some $$$)
hello guys i just replaced the bearing earlier and just finished putting the tranny together but now i have a problem. i can put the shifter in 5th gear and reverse but i cant make it go into 1st 2nd 3rd or 4th gear. im completely lost now and have no clue as to what i did wrong. any one have any ideas as to what went wrong? any help is appreciated thank you
#221
Re: DIY: Diagnose manual Tranny Noises (and save some $$$)
Great thread! I have the same problem with my 2002 right now, and it's to the point where I can't start the car due to some sort of resistance with the clutch in. I've been dreaming of doing a 6-speed RSX tranny swap, and this seems like some sort of sign it's the right time to do it. (161k miles, new clutch at 100k, bone stock)
Questions:
1) Is the only difference between RSX and RSX-S trans the sixth gear - i.e., is it the same external dimensions for both?
2) If I get an RSX tranny of either kind, is it a straight bolt-on job?
3) Am I right in thinking I'm limited to 2002-2004 RSXs?
Any and all advice appreciated. This is my only car, so I need to act on it ASAP and don't want to waste time or $$ getting her running again.
Questions:
1) Is the only difference between RSX and RSX-S trans the sixth gear - i.e., is it the same external dimensions for both?
2) If I get an RSX tranny of either kind, is it a straight bolt-on job?
3) Am I right in thinking I'm limited to 2002-2004 RSXs?
Any and all advice appreciated. This is my only car, so I need to act on it ASAP and don't want to waste time or $$ getting her running again.
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Great thread! I have the same problem with my 2002 right now, and it's to the point where I can't start the car due to some sort of resistance with the clutch in. I've been dreaming of doing a 6-speed RSX tranny swap, and this seems like some sort of sign it's the right time to do it. (161k miles, new clutch at 100k, bone stock)
Questions:
1) Is the only difference between RSX and RSX-S trans the sixth gear - i.e., is it the same external dimensions for both?
2) If I get an RSX tranny of either kind, is it a straight bolt-on job?
3) Am I right in thinking I'm limited to 2002-2004 RSXs?
Any and all advice appreciated. This is my only car, so I need to act on it ASAP and don't want to waste time or $$ getting her running again.
Questions:
1) Is the only difference between RSX and RSX-S trans the sixth gear - i.e., is it the same external dimensions for both?
2) If I get an RSX tranny of either kind, is it a straight bolt-on job?
3) Am I right in thinking I'm limited to 2002-2004 RSXs?
Any and all advice appreciated. This is my only car, so I need to act on it ASAP and don't want to waste time or $$ getting her running again.
#223
Re: DIY: Diagnose manual Tranny Noises (and save some $$$)
When I release the clutch on my car 92'honda accord I hear a loud bang! Kinda a metally banging noise. Its only when I release the clutch under load (kinda hard) or if im rolling in gear and goose on the throttle. Ive already changed the axles, balljoints,motor mounts and checked everything else.. Im starting to get frustrated.... Any ideas.?
#225
Re: DIY: Diagnose manual Tranny Noises (and save some $$$)
Hello, is turnoengnr still active in this forum? I would like know if I recorded my car's RPM with my iPhone, and with a high quality sound recorder my car noise, if it could be diagnosed by someone knowledgeable? It's making a sound in 1st/2nd/ sometimes 3rd gear in the higher RPM's and can't make out what issue it might be. I'm thinking throw out bearing but maybe it's the input bearing. If anyone can help out, I will upload. Thanks in advance.
#226
Re: DIY: Diagnose manual Tranny Noises (and save some $$$)
Alright so I have a similar noise but it does NOT happen in idle. It happens only when in gear and driving with the clutch fully released. Press the clutch in no noise but if the gears are in nuetral no noise ever. Even if the car is rolling in nuetral and clutch is released no noise, first gear loud noise and it's gets quiter as you shift up. Almost silent in 4th and nothing in 5th. Now it sounds like the throw out bearing but I'm not 100% because you don't ever hear it at idle but it is significantly loud in 1st. Again the noise doesn't happens until clutch is released and car is moving under its own power.
#227
Re: DIY: Diagnose manual Tranny Noises (and save some $$$)
Hoping someone can help me with my problem.
My transmission makes a squeaking sound (like worn belts) that seem to match engine RPM. You can hear this sound while idling and while driving and with the clutch released and when pressed in. I've been searching around other forums and in google but can't seem to find my specific problem.
It started after I had my transmission oil seal changed and also changed my pressure plate. The mechanic that did the repair said that it was caused by the pressure plate and would go away in a few days. I'm not sure I believe that.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. This issue is driving me crazy!
My transmission makes a squeaking sound (like worn belts) that seem to match engine RPM. You can hear this sound while idling and while driving and with the clutch released and when pressed in. I've been searching around other forums and in google but can't seem to find my specific problem.
It started after I had my transmission oil seal changed and also changed my pressure plate. The mechanic that did the repair said that it was caused by the pressure plate and would go away in a few days. I'm not sure I believe that.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. This issue is driving me crazy!
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Hi, I'm hoping to revive this thread and get some advice on what is causing this noise i've been having in my Civic. You can find a video capturing the sound on Youtube under #K3MkS-vg2ac, and a second one during a particulary noisy time under #zTHFUsgSSdM.
Problem: 2007 Civic Si squealing/whining noise with clutch disengaged (pedal out). Noise disappears when clutch is pressed in. Squeal/whine seems proportional to RPMs, peaking around 2500 RPM, at which point there is a noticeable vibration when sitting in neutral. Above 2500 the vibration and sound seems to subsist. Fully or even slightly pressing in on clutch pedal seems to eliminate the noise. This seems to happen on a cold start, and subsides shortly on warmup, though it's starting to last longer now.
Background: I have ~211k miles on my car now. I've had the car since about 60k miles (bought in 2010), and as far as I know, it's all original stock with original clutch, tranny, etc. I did change out the transmission fluid in 12/15 (175k mi.-used Honda fluid), and also changed out the clutch and brake fluids in 7/16 (182k mi). I do recall also the gears sticking a little/hard shifting in August of this year (8/17-205k), and I performed a clutch adjustment according to info and the associated links I found on the forum. That seemed to solve the hard shifting problem, and all seemed fine for a while.
The noise has just started in the last few months to a year. Sorry, but I can't remember exactly when because it started out as a pretty slight, very brief noise only on cold starts on colder mornings, and I mostly ignored it. I would say it started in the Spring maybe. Unfortunately, I can't say for sure if this noise began before or after the clutch adjustment I mentioned earlier, but I don't remember a correlation, and I'm pretty sure I would have noted that if it was the case. Originally it used to do it only when colder outside, and only on cold starts, and would last only a few seconds on startup before stopping. Lately it's gotten worse, and is doing it most times when I crank the car, and is making the noise for a longer period of time before stopping. I replaced the serpentine/accessory belt, since the old one looked a little cracked anyhow, and I thought this might be the cause. I tried to inspect the pulleys when changing the belt too (for sure the idler and tensioner pulleys), and they seemed to be fine from visual inspection.
The car still makes the noise after changing the belt. It's possible changing the belt made it even louder. I did take a quick video, and I also noticed that the noise goes away when the clutch is engaged (pushed down), and comes back when the clutch is released (pedal up). It does make the noise at idle, and with the car in neutral- it's just dependent on the clutch position. I'll try to attach a zipped video if I can figure out how to do that (it kept getting rejected). It will also make the noise when starting out, at least in first and second gears. It used to fade away pretty quickly, so by the time I hit 3rd gear it would have been gone. The noise would not come back after the car had been driven for a while. Just recently, it's been making the noise longer (and louder), and I did hear it happening in higher gears as well after listening for this.
I've been reading some stuff about clutch-dependent noises on Civics, and one possibility would seem to be the input shaft bearing (ISB). The videos I've seen of this seem to be a different noise though, so I'm not sure that's the problem. My noise started out more like the OP's video here, from what I can tell. I was hoping one of the experienced posters here could help me out, and that I'm not looking at major transmission issues.
Thanks for any help/advice you can offer!
Problem: 2007 Civic Si squealing/whining noise with clutch disengaged (pedal out). Noise disappears when clutch is pressed in. Squeal/whine seems proportional to RPMs, peaking around 2500 RPM, at which point there is a noticeable vibration when sitting in neutral. Above 2500 the vibration and sound seems to subsist. Fully or even slightly pressing in on clutch pedal seems to eliminate the noise. This seems to happen on a cold start, and subsides shortly on warmup, though it's starting to last longer now.
Background: I have ~211k miles on my car now. I've had the car since about 60k miles (bought in 2010), and as far as I know, it's all original stock with original clutch, tranny, etc. I did change out the transmission fluid in 12/15 (175k mi.-used Honda fluid), and also changed out the clutch and brake fluids in 7/16 (182k mi). I do recall also the gears sticking a little/hard shifting in August of this year (8/17-205k), and I performed a clutch adjustment according to info and the associated links I found on the forum. That seemed to solve the hard shifting problem, and all seemed fine for a while.
The noise has just started in the last few months to a year. Sorry, but I can't remember exactly when because it started out as a pretty slight, very brief noise only on cold starts on colder mornings, and I mostly ignored it. I would say it started in the Spring maybe. Unfortunately, I can't say for sure if this noise began before or after the clutch adjustment I mentioned earlier, but I don't remember a correlation, and I'm pretty sure I would have noted that if it was the case. Originally it used to do it only when colder outside, and only on cold starts, and would last only a few seconds on startup before stopping. Lately it's gotten worse, and is doing it most times when I crank the car, and is making the noise for a longer period of time before stopping. I replaced the serpentine/accessory belt, since the old one looked a little cracked anyhow, and I thought this might be the cause. I tried to inspect the pulleys when changing the belt too (for sure the idler and tensioner pulleys), and they seemed to be fine from visual inspection.
The car still makes the noise after changing the belt. It's possible changing the belt made it even louder. I did take a quick video, and I also noticed that the noise goes away when the clutch is engaged (pushed down), and comes back when the clutch is released (pedal up). It does make the noise at idle, and with the car in neutral- it's just dependent on the clutch position. I'll try to attach a zipped video if I can figure out how to do that (it kept getting rejected). It will also make the noise when starting out, at least in first and second gears. It used to fade away pretty quickly, so by the time I hit 3rd gear it would have been gone. The noise would not come back after the car had been driven for a while. Just recently, it's been making the noise longer (and louder), and I did hear it happening in higher gears as well after listening for this.
I've been reading some stuff about clutch-dependent noises on Civics, and one possibility would seem to be the input shaft bearing (ISB). The videos I've seen of this seem to be a different noise though, so I'm not sure that's the problem. My noise started out more like the OP's video here, from what I can tell. I was hoping one of the experienced posters here could help me out, and that I'm not looking at major transmission issues.
Thanks for any help/advice you can offer!
Last edited by jptra; 11-26-2017 at 05:00 PM. Reason: updated info
#229
Re: DIY: Diagnose manual Tranny Noises (and save some $$$)
If you hear an odd noise coming from your 5-speed transmission, this post is for you.
There are 2 common things that happen to the 5 speed transmissions in our generation Honda.
The first of which is somewhat common. This is the throwout bearing.
This is how to diagnose it.....
-Start your car.
-Roll up the windows, turn the radio off, and turn the blower motor for the AC/heater off.
-put the car into neutral, and press in the clutch
---- if you hear the noise now, it is the THROWOUT BEARING. If you release the clutch, the noise should go away
The reason it makes the noise like this is because when you have your foot off the clutch, the throwout bearing is not spinning, and it has no force on it. But when you push the clutch in, the throwout bearing forces the fingers on the pressure plate in, causing the clutch to release. The bearing is spinning however fast the motor is turning at this time. So if the bearing is bad, it will make noise.
This is a rather simple fix for a shop to do. They have to take the transmission out, and replace the throwout bearing, the replace the tranny. It is basically the same work as replacing a clutch.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now, the second (and seems to be more common) problem is the input shaft bearing.
This is how to diagnose it.....
-Start your car.
-Roll up the windows, turn the radio off, and turn the blower motor for the AC/heater off.
-put the car into neutral, and take your foot off the clutch pedal
---- if you hear the noise now, it is the INPUT SHAFT BEARING. if you press in the clutch, the noise should go away.
The reason for this is because when you have the clutch engaged (foot off the pedal) the motor is spinning the input shaft on the transmission (even when in neutral). The bearing has a plastic cage inside of it that holds the small ball-bearings equidistant apart. This plastic cage can be broken by even a completely stock car, if it is driven hard (shifting hard, running sticky tires, etc). When this plastic cage breaks, the ball bearings load up one side of the bearing. This allows the input shaft to walk side to side slightly, which causes the gears to not mesh up right. This causes a whining and growling sound. But when you press in the clutch, the input shaft stops spinning, so the noise goes away.
The way to fix this is a lot more difficult. You have to completely remove the transmission from the car. Then you take the shifter assembly out of the tranny, remove the speed sensor. Then you have the split the case apart. Next you have to remove the differential and the Spider gears. Now you will have access to the bearing. The bearing is $23 from your local honda dealership. Once you install it, put the tranny back together and slap it in the car.
I hope this helps you guys out. A LOT OF SHOPS MIS-DIAGNOSE THE INPUT SHAFT BEARING FOR A THROWOUT BEARING!! This means that you pay for them to replace the throwout bearing, then when you drive it home and its making the same noise, you take it back and pay them to fix the input shaft bearing.
I am trying to help save you guys some hard earned money with this. Diagnose this yourself. Print out this guide, and take it into your tranny shop. Let them diagnose it with the help of this guide. And hopefully you will save some cash in the end AND look like you know what your doing.
There are 2 common things that happen to the 5 speed transmissions in our generation Honda.
The first of which is somewhat common. This is the throwout bearing.
This is how to diagnose it.....
-Start your car.
-Roll up the windows, turn the radio off, and turn the blower motor for the AC/heater off.
-put the car into neutral, and press in the clutch
---- if you hear the noise now, it is the THROWOUT BEARING. If you release the clutch, the noise should go away
The reason it makes the noise like this is because when you have your foot off the clutch, the throwout bearing is not spinning, and it has no force on it. But when you push the clutch in, the throwout bearing forces the fingers on the pressure plate in, causing the clutch to release. The bearing is spinning however fast the motor is turning at this time. So if the bearing is bad, it will make noise.
This is a rather simple fix for a shop to do. They have to take the transmission out, and replace the throwout bearing, the replace the tranny. It is basically the same work as replacing a clutch.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now, the second (and seems to be more common) problem is the input shaft bearing.
This is how to diagnose it.....
-Start your car.
-Roll up the windows, turn the radio off, and turn the blower motor for the AC/heater off.
-put the car into neutral, and take your foot off the clutch pedal
---- if you hear the noise now, it is the INPUT SHAFT BEARING. if you press in the clutch, the noise should go away.
The reason for this is because when you have the clutch engaged (foot off the pedal) the motor is spinning the input shaft on the transmission (even when in neutral). The bearing has a plastic cage inside of it that holds the small ball-bearings equidistant apart. This plastic cage can be broken by even a completely stock car, if it is driven hard (shifting hard, running sticky tires, etc). When this plastic cage breaks, the ball bearings load up one side of the bearing. This allows the input shaft to walk side to side slightly, which causes the gears to not mesh up right. This causes a whining and growling sound. But when you press in the clutch, the input shaft stops spinning, so the noise goes away.
The way to fix this is a lot more difficult. You have to completely remove the transmission from the car. Then you take the shifter assembly out of the tranny, remove the speed sensor. Then you have the split the case apart. Next you have to remove the differential and the Spider gears. Now you will have access to the bearing. The bearing is $23 from your local honda dealership. Once you install it, put the tranny back together and slap it in the car.
I hope this helps you guys out. A LOT OF SHOPS MIS-DIAGNOSE THE INPUT SHAFT BEARING FOR A THROWOUT BEARING!! This means that you pay for them to replace the throwout bearing, then when you drive it home and its making the same noise, you take it back and pay them to fix the input shaft bearing.
I am trying to help save you guys some hard earned money with this. Diagnose this yourself. Print out this guide, and take it into your tranny shop. Let them diagnose it with the help of this guide. And hopefully you will save some cash in the end AND look like you know what your doing.
Hello,
I think I am having problem number 2. I have the noise in neutral. And it stops when I press the clutch down.
This started a month and a half ago. I haven't had the money to fix this yet. I will be getting my Xmas bonus from work soon. I was wondering how long is it safe to drive like this? And should I avoid going on the freeway?
See, the guy I bought the car from is going to replace the transmission for me. Cuz right now I don' have 5th gear. We just haven' found a day to do the transmission. And he said he would fix this and even give me a new clutch. We are both working 6 days a week right now. I really don't wanna pay to have a transmission shop to fix this since I can have it done for free. But, worst case scenario. If I have to. I have to.
thank you for your time.
#230
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As a follow-up to my post just above, my problem turned out to be the clutch throwout bearing- total repair cost of $605, including parts. You will note that my issue is in opposition to the thread starter post here, which stated that if your car makes the noise with the clutch out and in neutral, and goes away when you press your clutch in, then it's your input shaft bearing. Mine had exactly these symptoms, but luckily it turned out my transmission was fine. Another poster on another thread had diagnosed my symptoms as the clutch throwout bearing, and I was skeptical based on this thread, but he was exactly right. The bearing was making noise only when under no load initially, and when the clutch was pressed in and a load applied on the throwout bearing, the noise would go away. As the bearing got worse and worse after some months, it began to make a noise when the clutch was pressed in, and almost completely failed shortly thereafter.
Long story short, don't be too quick on the bad ISB diagnosis, as just like the bad throwout bearing diagnosis, this could also end up costing you a lot of unnecessary expense. With transmission work being more costly than clutch replacement, this would be an especially bad mistake to make.
Long story short, don't be too quick on the bad ISB diagnosis, as just like the bad throwout bearing diagnosis, this could also end up costing you a lot of unnecessary expense. With transmission work being more costly than clutch replacement, this would be an especially bad mistake to make.
Last edited by jptra; 05-15-2018 at 11:55 AM.
#231
Re: DIY: Diagnose manual Tranny Noises (and save some $$$)
My 2003 Civic has had the ISB noise for about 10 years now and has about 320K Km's (about 200K miles). Recently a new noise has surfaced which sounds just like a wheel bearing noise and I was hoping it was. But my mechanic assures me that the wheel bears are fairly quiet and he is very certain it is coming from the tranny. The noise level rises with road speed, regardless of the clutch or gear position, starting from barely audible at 10 to 20 mph to really there at 40 to mph and blends into the road noise at 50 - just like a wheel bearing. I haven't studied the transmission to differential to drive shift path yet but would my noise be more likely from a drive shaft bearing? I'm assuming there is one. Is the drive shaft bearing part of the transmission system and any more or less involving that dealing with the ISB or through bearing? I guessing this bearing doesn't go as often but at 200K, who knows?
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