SlimRisk

You'll know when you see it

civicinin

Not sure how helpful that's going to be, but ok for now.

GabrielSweatt

Hey guys, i recently did a motor swap in my '99 honda civic dx, from a y7 non-vtec to a '99 y8 vtec. The good thing is that my car starts , but the bad is, im having an idle issue. While the Tps is plug up my car idles up & down all the time, but when
Ever its unpluged my car idles fine maybe a little lean ,but im replacing my stock P2E with a P2P ecu tomorow. Would that help ? And by the way i can't accelarate over 60mph
Using my stock wiring harness.

civicinin

I took them out to do a compression test--numbers 1 and 3 are brownish. Does this mean anything? Cylinder 1 is on the left.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Nope normal, mine are the same way...

WKD DRGN

Is there a write up like this for 6th gen. civics or is it basically the same deal? My civic has pretty shaky idle at cold starts but is okay after the engine warms up and is okay when turned back on with the engine being warm. Spark plugs, cap and rotor and wires were recently replaced, within a few months and I try to buy the best aftermarket wise.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

It's pretty similar really. Only you have ignition wires, a distributor, cap and rotor to worry about as well.

jddm

I cheated. I read all the idle issues and have not done most of those been posted. But I own a 2002 Honda Civic Coupe EX 1.7l M/T

My car died on me on the interstate. I notice I was losing power as my speedometer would slightly go up as I press in the gas pedal. But before this my car was knocking. Sounded like a rod knock but my engine wasn't shaking... yet... until it actually died. Had it towed back to my house. It cranks but this time my motor is horribly shaking. Saw that my driver side mount blew up.Changed all four mounts and everything still shakes with a slight improvement. I forgot to mention. When it died on the interstate I was leaking oil, a whole bunch, butchecked my dipstick and oil level is still good.

My first problem that I had was bad clutch bc it kept grinding shifting into 3rd gear and going into reverse. Bought a new clutch and that didn't help. This was a 2 yrs ago. And with my clutch grinding, it went to popping out of gears, especially 5th. 5th gear was my common issue when I first bought the car.

It does sound like a rod knock or a spun bearing etc. But I dont want to spend any more cash than I really should. Was planning to swap out a new trans also. Help!!! And oh, my honeycomb converter split in two so I took off the bottom half. I can sum up many reasons but help me narrow it down. Not sure how it will perform when the car is warmed up. Never tried bc my motor rocks too much, so im scared to even let it warm up....

P40vic

Just wanted to thank BlueEM2 and Gearbox for the info in this thread. Tried the idle reset per the manual and it didn't do anything. Pulled the fuse per Gearbox's post to reset the idle and now it's working great. Props!

AdrianW

I had the exact same issue with my Toyota. I would try replacing the coolant temp. Sensor. When it screws up, the car thinks it's running in a different temp which will cause it to run lean, have accel issues, and even stall when hitting the gas

bresh21

Hi Guys,

Seeing that I have an idle issue that fits under the topic, but appears to be a new datapoint, I'll add my story to the list.

I just recently re-did my head gasket (thanks BlueEM2 for the DIY). After a few weekends of work, I got everything together yesterday, primed the fuel system, crossed my fingers, puckered up, made the sign of the cross, and attempted a restart. The engine fired up effortlessly but to my chagrin there was a burning smell accompanied by smoke coming from the exhaust man/downtube joint. Followed by a consistent wandering idle (cycled back and forth between 1k and 2.2k rpm at ~1.0 Hz). Engine light is on and throwing code for upstream O2 sensor - high voltage.

I have a flashback of taking the head off and spilling oil right on the down tube joint and (possibly) the O2 sensor (d'oh!). I believe this was the burning smell, and I suspect it's a culprit in the wandering idle. My questions are the following:

1) Is oil on the O2 sensor enough to throw off the idle that bad?
1.5) Should I attempt to run the car until the oil has a chance to burn off?
1.8) I suppose I should sea foam per the suggestion pointing to the LS forums.
2) Should I replace the O2 sensor - I don't suppose I can clean it ? If so, what's the best place to source one (man, those things are expensive)?

Thanks!

Joe

bsmiley

I got this link from the sticky on OEM parts... https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...re-buying.html


There are two dealerships and this one is Majestic on the east coast: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...artsSearch.jsp

I personally have ordered some parts from them and the prices were better than my local dealers...

em2_krew

sup guys!
im new to this but i have a problem with my 01 honda civic 1.7
when at idle it revs at 2rpm and wont go dwn...i clean the idle air control
and changed the o2 sensor (upstream) but still does that...can someone
please help me???and the same time it started doin that my temperature guage stop working

christopher k

i have an 02 honda civic and lots of rough idle when started,,,and when i give it gas the rpm needle dosent move,,,,and it feels like it wants to stall,,any info will help,,thank u,,chris

PullOutLando

Hey guys I'm a newbie to the Honda club I was looking through this thread trying to diagnose my idle problem. I just got an 03 LX and my car shakes a bit at around 1200rmps above and below that it runs fine. I noticed that when I changed the spark plugs cylinder 3 ignition coil looked burnt and yellow as did the spark plug in that cylinder. Should I try to replace the ignition coil first? Also at the bottom of the cylinder where the spark plugs go it looked dirty or scratched I coulnt tell. I was able to clean it up a bit but the bottom looked the same. Could this be the cause? I have also replaced the air filter already. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!