raj

How do you get these seal's off? Front Crank seal. I cant seem to pry it, keeps tearing. I dont want to scratch anything. Any tips?

MarkM01

At 194k miles, I just did my second t belt. I was going to wait untill 200k, but I had to replace a bad ac compressor, so I figured while I had everything removed, go ahead and do it.

I decieded to keep running the factory tensioner, it spun freely, and had no wobble to it. Replaced all factory hoses while I was at it. Hope it goes another 100k.

jackburton

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to look and see if the bolts holding the water pump were different sizes. I did not notice that two bolts are shorter. I thought that I cross threaded the bolt, because it did not go in there. I even took it out and then put it back in, not thinking. The bolt broke off and it is still in there. Such a PITA or actually more of a WCS. I have bought every tool that Sears, Home Depot, and Ace Hardware have to extract broken bolts. I bought 90 degree elbows, chucks, drill bits, etc. An electric impact wrench that looks more like a sander or buffer finally allowed me to start a drill out/extraction attempt. finally got the right fit I idiotically did not look up how to do it on the net until hours later. I did not know that it would be so much easier to use the smallest bit first, going very slow, and then move to the next biggest one. Luckily I was using the extractors with a bit on one end and reversed threads on the other for most of the time, so the small hole that I did end up drilling is centered. I also realized that I should be using reverse drill bits, and did not even think to look at them to see if I was cutting wrong. I was all ready to start putting things back together and then boom. I am going on vacation today, so the car has to sit. Hopefully when I get back I can drill the blt out and extract it with out having to rethread it. I was also thinking about using some honda bond and leaving the bolt in there. i was kind of scared that if I tried to rethread it, the block would crack. The water pump bolts are not torqued on too tight, so it could have been worse

So... Be careful the moment you think that you are victorious. Pride comes before the fall, nothing is over until it is over, etc, etc.

jackburton

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to look and see if the bolts holding the water pump were different sizes. I did not notice that two bolts are shorter. I thought that I cross threaded the bolt, because it did not go in there. I even took it out and then put it back in, not thinking. The bolt broke off and it is still in there. Such a PITA or actually more of a WCS. I have bought every tool that Sears, Home Depot, and Ace Hardware have to extract broken bolts. I bought 90 degree elbows, chucks, drill bits, etc. An electric impact wrench that looks more like a sander or buffer finally allowed me to start a drill out/extraction attempt. finally got the right fit I idiotically did not look up how to do it on the net until hours later. I did not know that it would be so much easier to use the smallest bit first, going very slow, and then move to the next biggest one. Luckily I was using the extractors with a bit on one end and reversed threads on the other for most of the time, so the small hole that I did end up drilling is centered. I also realized that I should be using reverse drill bits, and did not even think to look at them to see if I was cutting wrong. I was all ready to start putting things back together and then boom. I am going on vacation today, so the car has to sit. Hopefully when I get back I can drill the blt out and extract it with out having to rethread it. I was also thinking about using some honda bond and leaving the bolt in there. I was kind of scared that if I tried to rethread it, the block would crack or it would weaken coolant passages, as I have read. The water pump bolts are not torqued on too tight, so it could have been worse

So... Be careful the moment you think that you are victorious. Pride comes before the fall, nothing is over until it is over, etc, etc.

link97381

I just changed now my car wont start.....

To be more specific I changed it, put everything backtogether, started it(it took about 10 seconds but it started) but it wasn't running right so I took everything apart again and put the belt back on taking even extra care to make sure it was at TDC. So now at this point it will start but not idle at all. At this point I really have no idea what I'm doing so my father and uncle who were helping me change it pretty much took over.

The first thing they did was try moving the timing belt one tooth to the left. It started this time but again just wasn't running right. So next they tried moving it a tooth to the right(or two teeth to the right, one to put it back where is originally was and one to put it to the right a notch) Now it wont start at all. At one point during the several hours of trouble shooting we spent my uncle had removed one of the spark plugs and it started with out the plug in but when he put it back it wouldn't start.

Anyone have any ideas as to what might be wrong or what I should check next?

MarkM01

You probably had it right the first time.

Do you have a repair manual? Sometimes when you disconnect the battery for long periods of time, and go to start it, it'll run like crap. You have to do a restart mode, the manual states how to do it. You basically run it at a certian rpm, like 2000, until the fans kick on, and then let it idel, etc. I don't know the exact procedure, but I'd bet that's what you need to do.

I've worked on my car many times, and it's only done this to me once. I just had to run it awhile, and it was back to normal.

link97381

At the moment I'm not getting any spark at all. Any ideas as to what might cause that?

MarkM01

Maybe one of the two wire sensors that go into the timing cover?

jackburton

iTrader: (1)

Well...It started, just have to put the p/s pump belt on and then tension and break it in.

llinj1

Hi. Guys:

When you do the crank pulley bolt, what size of the socket are you using? I have a 2002 civic LX 5 spd, I am wondering what the socket size am I looking for to get the crank pulley bolt?

Also I have a general question: I am building up my toolbox for the maintenance for my 2002 civic LX 5 spd. What size of the sockets do I have to get in my toolbox? Metric or SAE? ½ inch drive or 3/8 in drive?

Thanks.

Dan

MarkM01

I'm not sure what size socket it takes, I don't remember. Somewhere around 17mm.

Civics have all metric bolts and nut. For the most part, when working under the hood (removing valve cover, timing belt cover, alt, ps, etc.), I use 1/4" drive sockets, 10mm being the majority on bolt sizes, and 12mm. Suspension work, 3/8" drive. Breaking the crank bolt loose, and lug nuts, 1/2" drive on an impact.

jackburton

iTrader: (1)

You don't need any 3/8, and they are hard to find anyway. If you really want to you could try sears, you may be luck enough for them to have it in stock, either that or a specialty store. Like I said, 1/2 in drive will do. I broke an old breaker bar, but I got a new one and it came right off. Just set it up like they did in the video. I had to put a pipe on the breaker bar that goes on the crank pulley tool. As long as you have a good four feet of pipe, it really is not that hard. Just be careful when the bolt or breaker bar breaks. Use control and you will be fine. Just make sure you put that short bolt in the right hole when reinstalling the water pump.

jackburton

iTrader: (1)

19mm for the crank pulley bolt
I used one made for air tools that is really strong. You might need to get a stronger one, but you may not.

MarkM01

3/8" drive is hard to find? Not true, actually they're probably THE most common. Look in any mechanics tool box, and 3/8" drive will exceed all other drive sizes.

No offense, but you may want to invest in a torque wrench. If you were putting enough torque on that water pump bolt to break it, you were by far exceeding the torque spec.

jackburton

iTrader: (1)

I meant 3/4. Whoops.
It got stuck in there and I was trying to get it out.

Enzochi

Hello,

I just finished my timing belt today. Needless to say, when I start the car it idles really rough. The engine won't shut off either. It will just run. It seems like the idle is a bit low as well. I'm 99.99999% sure that I had all the timing marks line up properly and that the motor was at TDC. And all the belts are properly tensioned. I also had the battery out over night. Before I go out and hold the accelerator down and blow up the motor. Is there anyone that confirm the 'motor reset'? I've looked in my O-manual and the Haynes Manual and I can't find anything like this.

Any help would be great!


Also, I can confirm that the ABS system is a complete pain in the *** when doing the t-belt.

Thanks,
Adam Kress
akress.com
enzochi@gmail com

MarkM01

The engine wont shut off? When you turn the key off, it keeps running?

It the Haynes manual, look at section 5-2, it's the PCM idle learn procedure.

If you can't fine it, let me know.

What problems did you have with the ABS system?

MarkM01

Here you go.

Perform the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure, as follows:

Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear defogger, lights, etc.) are off.

Start the engine, and hold it at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 ºF (90 ºC).

Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.

jackburton

iTrader: (1)

abs bracket gets in the way of motor mount bracket. Its also in the way for some other stuff... Not so much that it makes anything impossible though.

Enzochi

Thanks for the reply's. I will re-check the haynes manual tonight when I get home. I've been told by a few people that it is off by one tooth. This morning I held the engine at 2000 RPM. At 2K the motor did sound a bit unhealthy. That is why I would think that it's a tooth off. I didn't push it past 2K though and the 'Check Engine' light came on too. Also, when I had it apart and I turned the motor by hand it turned over easily by hand. I didn't have to force it. So I know the valves aren't hitting.

Oh, and it will shut off when I turn the key off. The engine won't stall when running...

here is a pic of the new belt installed ->
http://www.flickr.com/photos/enzochi/3669648263/

also, the ABS system is just in the way.. it's a PITA. And to add some fuel to the fire. My stereo now has an ERR2 on the screen. I'm not sure what that means yet.

Enzochi

Well, I tried the reset. It didn't work. I took the car back apart an I'm going to recheck everything tomorrow evening.

Thanks for the help so far!

jackburton

iTrader: (1)

Did you move either the crank or cam pulley after taking the belt off?

When I took mine off I did not have to move either, because it was already at TDC. The belt never slipped a tooth. When I put the new one on it just slipped right on perfectly.

It sounds like you are going to have to pull a spark plug and be very very careful and take your time. ( I know that really doesn't help)

MarkM01

Yeah, mine came off and then sliped right back on like jackburton.

I took a straight edge and layed it accross the cam pully to try and line up the marks level with the head. But it's still kinda just eye balled.

Good luck, you'll get it.

Enzochi

I think the crank pully moved a bit. I'm going to get out the laser lever to check the cam later today. And try the straw down the spark plug tube to make damn sure that it's at TDC. I have some pictures here ->
http://www.flickr.com/photos/enzochi/3675451976/
The only real mistake I made so far is not marking the old belt before I took it off. I'm just not 100% sure on how much tension to put on the belt between the crank and cam pully. And that is where I think it's off a tooth. It seems like there is too much slack there.

Enzochi

Just got the motor back together. It was off by one tooth. I moved it one tooth counter clockwise on the cam pulley. The problem I was (I think) having was when I put the spring from the tensioner back on the post it was knocking the crank pulley out of TDC. So I marked the teeth on the cam with a marker, unsprung the tensioner, moved the belt, then put the spring back into place. Everything lined up perfectly. I turned it over by hand a couple of times and both cam and crank stayed in the correct spots. Buttoned it back and started it. It sounds good so far. I haven't put the wheel back on yet. I will tomorrow and test.

Thanks again!

Adam Kress
akress.com
enzochi@gmail com

pheaton

iTrader: (6)

I'm getting ready to tackle this baby this weekend. I'm going to opt out on the coolant flush and oil change, because I've just had that stuff done recently. I have 105k on the car, so it's time to stop putting this off. One of 3 belts is starting to squeek. The belt that is easiest to see is noticeably cracked and worn, so I can imagine the others are in similar shape.

I got the Crank Pulley Holder tool and some beefy sockets, extensions, and breaker bar and cheater pipe to get that bolt off.

I'll let everyone know how this went after I'm finished.

Just a couple of suggestions as I'm reading up on this prior to tackling it. Socket/bolt sizes would be great. I can't confirm, but I think the crank bolt is 18MM? Anyone? Just so a person can verify that he has the right stuff.

Also for tools, you may want to mention the belt tension gauge, and any various lubricants, or cleaners that you might have used.

Lastly, on the step 38 idiot check, you might want to put that grenade pin in there. To help remind a person to take that sucker out.

All in all, this DIY has given me confidence to be willing to even attempt this, so great job. I am changing the water pump, valve cover gasket, tensioner and the 2 other belts since I'll be in there. I'm setting aside the entire weekend for this, just in case it turns into a fiasco. Wish me luck!

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

crank pulley bolt is a 19mm, and brake cleaner and water are good cleaners, so is simple green

JBS36606

I have two questions.

1. I would like to make sure my timing is correct (by cranking) before putting the alternator and PSP back. Are there any issues with this approach?

2. Do I need to move the ABS system or work around it? It seems to be in the way.

Thanks for the response in advance.

jvolpert

Hi I just changed my timing belt. The car is shaking a little at idle but has power at higher rpms. Any ideas on the problem? I'm not sure if I should let the computer "learn" some more or if I should tear into it again to make sure the marks are still lined up. The check engine light is blinking also. Thanks for any suggestions.

jvolpert

Update I just checked and the marks are lined up.