happies713

iTrader: (1)

You can do either method. from A to B to C. tha is the Daisy Chain method, works very good, its the most used method by the people who buy my kits.

you can also to neg to A, neg to B, neg to C. i dont really know if this is better, but it also works good!!

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Okay everyone-

After a few back-breaking hours trying to install this thing, I thought I would share my results. Some of those grounding points were extremely difficult to get to and get the bolts back on. On top of all that, a bolt fell into the engine bay somewhere and I had to drive to Honda for another one. Craziness!! I wired mine the same way Happies did in the first post of this diy. The only difference was I used the tranny bolt near the dipstick because the stock grounding point bolt would not come off. All other connections are the same.

Here are the results, which were somewhat disappointing at first. The car started up fine, like it always does, and I didn't feel that it was any faster than before. So the engine didn't improve. While driving around, it maybe felt like the auto tranny was shifting a bit smoother. The headlights didn't really look brighter, and there was no increased throttle response. When I turned on the stereo, I noticed that the subs were alot louder than before. I had to turn down the level a couple notches on the deck to have it back to what it was before.

Overall, it seems to have helped with the electrical system a bit and maybe the tranny shifting. I think this alone makes the kit worth it, especially for just $38.

Thanks, Happies, for the 1-week shipping and a good product!

slamtank

hm...u r not sure about it?
i just thought second method works better since its directly connected from neg terminal..
but if most ppl go with daisy chain method, then it doesnt matter for me

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Use the daisy-chain method. It works. You'll probably notice the most improvement with the stereo. I didn't see much performance gains, and I went into this project with high expectations. Still worth it.

YS

iTrader: (4)

same here ........ but i didn't buy it from happies713 .... DIY from left over wires

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Hey YS, I used your tranny ground point for my install.

Mex

iTrader: (5)

don't forget to shave paint away in some of these spots guys; it makes a better ground!

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

The only spot I needed to shave was the valve cover bolt, since the bottom was painted. All the rest were good (bare metal). I would run all the wires first and attach them to the negative terminal LAST. That way you won't have to take out the connector and lose radio settings and stuff.

happies713

iTrader: (1)

cool, now post some pics!! =)

ohmysac

iTrader: (5)

ok i changed my configuration a bit...instead of neg battery directly to firewall i used another wire to go from neg battery to stock trans ground to firewall...

had the chance to drive around more today...lights are brighter...stereo sounds much better..car seems to run a little smoother...the exhaust note isnt as "rough"...auto tranny shifts quicker... oh ya...and windows go up and down faster...lol no joke

slamtank

do i have to disconnect the battery when install?
i kno gearbox used the way that he didnt need to..but is that good? safe?

slamtank

oh i got 100th reply!!

ohmysac

iTrader: (5)

no you dont have to disconnect the battery...i just took the bolt out of the neg terminal without actually taking the negative terminal off...resetting the ecu is a good idea but it makes it harder to notice any gains because the ecu's fuel/ignition maps are reset...

Mex

iTrader: (5)

ok, I just finished my grounding kit install! I've noticed benefits all around, mainly brighter lights, in and out, and my stereo is now THX certified here's my version:

from negative to transmission:



from transmission to firewall:



from firewall to right side strut tower:



now, for this next part, i went from the negative terminal to the radiator support frame, then channeled out by cutting the largest wire into 2 pieces:




I heard all you had to do was shave the paint off the valve cover nut, but i decided to shave all the contacts I was making to the frame of the car. and sure enough, the firewall, the strut tower, and the radiator frame all had a painted finish.

slamtank

um..what about cleaning out the bolts?
think bolts are a lil dirty, so what if i clean them with alcohol or something?

happies713

iTrader: (1)

wow Great install!!!!

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

I don't think the paint matters, since the current goes through the bolt. I still got a huge base increase from my subs without shaving anything. I might decide to shave them, but boy I had serious problems trying to get that firewall bolt back in!

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

I just remembered--the whole car is painted right? So how would shaving a little spot result in a better ground?

Also, I decided to reset my ecu afterall, since I'm only getting 24 miles per gallon. It may help.

Mex

iTrader: (5)

that's true, the current goes through the bolt anyway, so shaving off the paint doesnt really make a difference. it just gives the current more room to work with. and amen to that firewall bolt.. that sucker was tough!

another question guys, in this picture, is the current going from one wire to the other?



I'm not sure what material the bracket is, so i may not be grounding the strut tower at all

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

The bracket is metal, I think, but maybe you should wire them on the same bolt. There will be very little room to work with if you try it.

After having the kit on a couple of days, I've also noticed that the car starts better in the morning (cold start). Stereo improvement is amazing--feels like I bought new subs and amp.

happies713

iTrader: (1)

EP hatch grouneded!!

slamtank

same question i have..
nobody answered yet..
someone help us..

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Hmmm, mex--I talked to some car audio people who think it is better to shave the area around the ground point. This is done so the ground has a greater area, rather than just the bolt. It won't make much of a difference, though.

LudlamTheory

so how bout an upgrade for the alternator to battery wire. in the audio world, the alt to battery wire is a MUST. and what about a 1/0 gauge kit... is that available as well?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

I tried upgrading the stock engine to radiator support wire and the car didn't like it. It wasn't as quick off the line. Strange. It seems like the car has good days and bad. Sometimes it will drive so much faster for no apparent reason. ..But that's an entirely different problem.

slamtank

isnt 4G too thick?

YS

iTrader: (4)

4G is the perfect size ........... 2G or 0G is to BIG ......... 8G is a little to small but GOOD

Mex

iTrader: (5)

so are you saying it may not be because you upgraded that wire?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

I think it WAS from the upgraded wire. I just put the stock one back on just in case. Btw, I used 8 gauge when I tried it. Just stick with installing the grounding kit and don't replace any other wires.

I'm in the process of redoing my ICE setup and had the woofers out. Let me tell you, the car is so much faster after losing that 70 lbs.

sepudo

iTrader: (4)

I'm going to get the materials this weekend and try it out. I'm going to set it up as a network (i.e neg to A, neg to b, neg to C...) since no one seems to have done it that way and yet the diagram posted earlier in this post suggests it. I'm pretty familiar with my car now so any difference from the wires should be noticeable. I'll post the pros/cons later in this same post.

FYI:

I'm going to use 4 g wire and go from Neg to: trans, firewall right strut tower, radiator wall, valve cover.