mystery

i installed everything according to the instructions.. car ran good for about a week. then driving in 3rd about 4000rpms. my car started to bogg and the Infamous light went on(check engine light)... now whats going on?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Did you hook up every wire that was shown on the first post? Then do the initial setup before turning on the car for the first time? Most people get the check engine light because they left out the vtm wire.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Updated first post with initial setup procedure.

xproductionz

iTrader: (14)

haha.. i was just got the info from my car so i could post up the inital setup procedures but u beat me too it.. lol.. anyways.. make sure u solder ur connections.. dont use that stuff that comes with the kit and crimp it... it can come loose... maybe something u connected got loose.. thats just my opinion

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

I crimped mine, but I'm too lazy to redo it. I hope nothing comes apart....

mystery

gearbox. you first posted the initial setup instructions and the first page.. and you said to hold down the accelerater for 10 sec. and then let it go for 10 sec. what does this do?

mystery

i undid all the crimping and so i soldered everything. took awhile but i got it done

xproductionz

iTrader: (14)

good for you.. now if something happens down the line u cant blame it on the wires coming loose... haha.. i think earbox loves editing my original post... makes me wonder how much of the original post is still mine.. lol..

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Haha. I think the first paragraph is yours.

The accelerator thing is to make the vafc learn your throttle position, so it knows how much you're pressing the throttle and if you're at wot. There's actually a readout for one of the monitor functions.

xproductionz

iTrader: (14)

lol.. i went in an added some info about SOLDERING there wires... its always best

disaintnoricer

hey dudes, i got my VAFC connected with that diagram i have an 04' civic and well its still got an unstable idle and it sputters a lot any ideas? i set my VTEC to enage at 5800 and then i checked it and it said vtec is engaging at 3250 and now it wont change..... do i need to hit initialize???? im not sure plz lemme know thanks...

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Did you perform the initial setup BEFORE starting the engine? It's in the first post. If you don't do the setup, you will have big problems. Initialize the unit (wipe the memory), and unplug the car battery to erase the ecu memery. Then plug it back and turn the car to ON (do not crank motor). Now with the vafcII on, follow the initial setup instructions, turn the car off, and then you can set values. NEVER set fuel or vtec values while the car engine is running!

Hey you're from Illinois? Near chicago, if so we have meets in Schaumberg sometimes.

82801BA

I guess he's talking about the "etc." menu's VTEC Info....That number 3250rpm, -94kpa(or psi) and 2% throttle will NEVER change. It's just a list of what the ECU's original setting is. Use that as a reference to set VTEC engagement.

disaintnoricer

i did follow initial setup instructions, but that was when we followed APEXi's original wiring, we called ONE SIX and they reccommended checkin out this site and we did we got the new diagram and well we did the initial set up although i think it was kinda half assed so maybe we will try that tomorrow, if not we were thinking of taking it to one six tomorrow and having them run it, and the 3250 rpm's sounds really low for vtec engagement?????? and it was around that point that the car would sound boggy the High to low cam switch over point is where the car would "shudder" at wide throttle...lemme know what you guys think, and if any of you wanna talk directly the SN (on AIM) blingracerx THANKS GUYS

82801BA

The ECU is tuned for midrange power. The engine is made for midrange power also. 3250rpm is the MAX engagement point set in the ECU. In wide throttle then the ECU will engage VTEC right at 2500rpm. Question should be asked for whether we should let the VTEC engagement point at 2500rpm. The answer, I would say that, if you don't want the engine to lose power at midrange, then leave it alone. I did several dynos and had them analized. The result is that, the higher the engagement point you move to, for every 1000rpm, you lose about 10% of power, and, torque, up to the engagement point, then it goes back to where it should be.....

That's my advice. I don't know if many people will disagree(I know somebody really want to argue with me and say, set the point to 4000+). But we have 1 wild lobe and 1 flat lobe, I don't know why people will do it at 4000 and lean it up, then the ECU tries to correct the fuel and you lose power again, without sign and warning.

One important thing to keep in mind is that, VTEC controllers are NOT meant to extract more top end power. It IS used to get a "smooth power and torque curve". In older VTEC's, the graph often show a flat and dip around 4000-5500rpm range. VTEC controllers are then used to correct it, to gain the power back in that range. This is ALSO why older VTEC cars LOWER the engagement point, sometimes down to 3000rpm. Then think about it, why we want to raise the point?

Anyway, I did dyno'd it and found that, if I move my VTEC point up to 4000rpm, I have a complete FLAT curve from 3300-4000 then a sudden jump when VTEC engages. Tuning is not appropriate at that region because it's still running at 12Valve mode.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

I heard it's best to keep the vtec engagement stock. It should only be activating when a number of conditions are met, such as appropriate oil pressure and wide open throttle. Activating it at other conditions with the vafc may cause problems down the line.

But try the initial setup again and set all those options on the first page. If they're not set right, the car runs like crap.

I took my car to garage qwai and had them tune it, and they set the vtec to 2800rpms. I have it back to stock now.

disaintnoricer

cool, ok so about these meets...im very interested..lemme know!

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Yeah just check out the chicago forums. It's pretty dead most of the time, but there will be meets posted occasionally. The best turnouts are in the spring.

navyedoc

iTrader: (1)

um can i use a vafc1 to tune fuel only. i have no intrest in changing my vtec point. please help.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

It won't work. You will always get a check engine light and the car won't rev past 4k rpms.

disaintnoricer

wait a sec, so what should i set my vtec at? and can u possibly give me a list of settings???? thanks, cuz my car wont rev past 2500 (wide throttle)

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

is the check engine light on, and did you reset everything and redo the settings? Put the vtec to passive mode (****), since you shouldn't change that anyway. I'll post my wide throttle settings for a/f or you can search for the thread where I posted the dyno. It's different for every car tho.

82801BA

He's talking about VAFC-1........There's no "passive" mode in there. BTW, I am ver excited to see your fuel correction at passive mode.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

It's in there someplace. I know they set the vtec to 2800 rpms when they were tuning, but don't know if that was after they were done.

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...o+with+dh+head

disaintnoricer

ok, you guys are totally gonna make fun of me for this, i went through and double checked my connections and guess what?? i had the sensor input and sensor output wires SWITCHED!!! lol, i got it fixed, the cars runnin, no engine probs, no check engine light, running smoother than a babys bottom, thank you guys so much for helpin me out, id love to see those A/F ratios, but i think im gonna get it dyno tuned..... heres the site to my car, if you guys wanna check it out, im gonna have new pics posted soon and im workin on headers right now....anyone wanna add to my list of up coming parts....?? the goal for this car is 13's on 1/4 N/A thanks guys :-D http://www.programgeeks.net/other/de...s/tanveer/car/

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Glad you got it working. Your future mods look good, but some of those are not made yet for our cars. Stay away from regrind cams, intake manifold, and throtle body if you're staying NA. Maybe a light bore, but that's it. No aftermarket crank pully if you want the engine to last.

disaintnoricer

wait, so an intake manifold is not N/A?? i thought it was naturally aspirated, and as for pulleys, what do they do to the engine?, im just wondering cuz im kind of confused, thanks...and ill keep u guys posted on the status.

disaintnoricer

yo how do i get back to passive mode for the VAFC 2, i set it to 3200 l to H and 2400 H to L, stock is 3200 L to H, 2350 H to L

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

keep changing it until you get **** (four stars).

Intake manifold is generally not a good mod for an NA car. Someone did design one here that made more torque and hp, but it cost his $2000 and was full custom job. The KMS manifold is junk and actually causes major power loss if you don't have a turbo.

disaintnoricer

nice!, thanks for the info , i wouldnt have known that about the intake manifold, ok so what about injectors, sould i upgrade?