DSSuperStar

I recently purchased my son a 2007 civic LX sedan with an automatic in dark blue and 115k miles. I paid $3900 for it.

I found out the Takata recall hasn't been done, so that is scheduled for today. The paint looks like a $$ due to Honda quality clear coat and the reason I got it for a great price. I called on the paint recall, but I was told it has expired. However, interior looks like new, except for missing sun visors (already ordered replacements).

I plan on changing oil (M1 0w20), trans (DW1), coolant ( Peak Universal Lifetime) and ps fluids (Honda spec). I am also replacing upper and lower rad hoses, radiator cap and thermostat (all Gates). I will change the oil, oil filter, cabin, air filter and spark plugs (NGK Iridium). I also am replacing the handle that keeps the arm rest closed and one of the turn indicator bulbs is burned out. I figure, if the accessory belt breaks I can always have it towed home and replace it and the tensioner then. Anything else you think needs to be done?

The abs light is on so I am going to try cleaning the sensors at the wheels first. I was told it came on after Honda did a brake job. They wanted $300 to fix it. Any other quick/easy thing to check while the wheels are off?

I plan on getting him Raceland coils in the future (only 1" drop due to my driveway). Also, a cheap paint job and maybe projector headlights (I read Depo is good) and led tail lights.

This joins my 2013 Armada, 2005 G35 (213k miles all original), 2004 Avalon with 30k miles and soon to be gone 1997 Camry V6 with 293k miles.

I have previously owned an 85 civic hatch, 97 Civic hatch, 03 Pilot and 06 Odyssey. This is "my" first Honda in 4 years.

ezone

To FIX it for 300, or just to check it out for 300?

Forget cleaning. Get fault codes FIRST then decide what the next appropriate step will be.



Factory hoses could outlast the car IMO. EPDM is great stuff.
I strongly recommend OEM thermostat if you really want to replace it.
I strongly recommend Genuine Honda Type 2 coolant as well.

DSSuperStar

I already bought the thermostat and hoses and I have found Gates to be good quality. I drive the car yesterday and it had a hard time getting up to temp. It took over 10 miles to get to temp and cooled as I went downhill. It had the appearance of a stuck open thermostat.

I would prefer to use Peak Global as it is what I have in all of my other cars. I already use different trans fluids, I was hoping this would let me have one fluid for all cars. Peak Global is non 2-eh and is phosphate and silicate free. I dont see how it could hurt. I guess I will be the guinea pig.

DSSuperStar

How do I get fault code? Hopefully not the stealer. My obd2 reader does not pick them up.

Takata recall done, passenger side only. Now the seat belt sensor is bad and the airbag light is on. Dealer said it is covered for lifetime and ordered part for next week.

ezone

Who decided it would only be 300 to fix it? Or was that 300 to check it out?
Ask whomever received that itemized estimate for repair for all the details?

Some aftermarket scanners are capable of obtaining fault codes from more systems than just powertrain.....plan to do research and spend money though.

You might be able to get flash codes using the SCS jumper method, but Honda hasn't supported info for flash codes in more than a decade.

DSSuperStar

I would ask about the estimate, but the guy I bought it from was given it as a gift from his uncle. He might have been pulling the amount out of his rear.

DSSuperStar

Today I added a cabin filter (there wasn't one), changed the air filter, changed the spark plugs with NGK Laser Iridiums and suctioned and refilled the ps fluid twice with Honda fluid.

Yesterday, I ordered Tein Street Advance coilovers along with new front strut mounts, strut bearings and bump stops. I do not want to use old parts from the old struts. I want to take off the old and put in the new. Any other parts I need to do this?

ezone

Nuts?

Dust boots?

DSSuperStar

Thanks. The bumpstops and dustboots came as a package, plus the pics of the coils appear to have dust boots and maybe even bumpstops.

Can I resuse the mounting nuts/bolts from the original suspension? I figure these come off when I remove them. I just dont want to deal with compressing springs.

ezone

Are you assembling the struts/springs/plates/stops yourself, or is this a complete bolt in assembly?

DSSuperStar

Myself. I know they dont come with the mounts or bearings. I was just wondering if anyone knew what other parts, if any, are needed.

ezone

So that means you will be compressing springs, yes?

I didn't mean the mount nuts, I meant the single nut that goes on the top of the strut shaft.





This is the one that can kill people and pets if you don't compress the spring before removal.
Really, many of these are nyloc type and are supposed to be replaced.....do your new struts come with?

DSSuperStar

The coilovers come with a new strut top nut.

I changed the upper and lower hoses, thermostat and rad cap. When I drained the coolant, I found it was the green type. I refilled it with a little over a gallon of Zerex Asian Blue. I drove it around and ran the heater. When it cools, I will drain and fill it again.

I also changed the oil today with Mobil 1 0W20 and a bosch filter.

DSSuperStar

So I have drained/filled the trans with dw-1 twice. I have drained/filled the coolant three times with Zerex Asian Blue.

I also had the seat belt sensor replaced because the srs light was on.

Today, I installed the Tein Street Advance coilovers. The rear is sitting kinda high. I will wait a week or so for it to settle, then decide if/how much I want to lower the rear. They are set in the middle for damping, number 8. They ride suprisingly smooth for coilovers. My G35 with Z springs rides harsher.

I bought an aftermarket motor mount because the factory one is dead. I went with a solid rubber one instead of hydraulic. It is made by a company named Pioneer. I will report back if it is too harsh.

mac25

Welcome mate =D.