Myke105

I was tightening my lug nuts on my passenger side front tire and my tire iron broke off one of my lug nuts, what do I do, how can i fix this or is this a welding job ?

MindBomber

would it be possible for you to post a picture?

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Broke the lug nut itself? Or snapped the stud?

pwnsauce

did u take some roids or something? lmao jk

but if its what i think it is youll probably need to take it to a shop and theyll tack weld a nut or something to it.

would it be possible to hammer a socket on it? or did it break towards the bottom?

a picture would get more results

SpazticTwitch

I did this a few months ago, and I'm guessing you probably sheared off the stud and now have a lug nut with the tip of the stud in it. If I am guessing right, you are going to need to take it to a shop unless you have a decent set up at home. My guy charged me less than $100 to do it so its not bad, just annoying.

Note I have the 4 stud hub off a 01 lx coupe. Yours may be different depending on your model.

Essentially you need to remove the stud and replace it. Sounds easy enough...not so. On most cars you can knock the stud out the back with a hammer and slide a new one in. On my hub there is about 1/2" of space behind the hub to remove a 2.5" stud. I needed to take the hub off to replace it, and I don't have those capabilities.

There are some videos of people swapping it out without removing the hub but it seemed like a lot of work and not so safe. It requires you to alter the stud considerably to get it in.

If anyone knows a better way I'm open to suggestions too just in case this happens again.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

I have done my own tire rotations since 05 thanks to this design oversite (makes no sense why it continues to be this way)

If I ever have broken stud and have to pull the hub, I plan on changing all of the studs at the same time.

Nosepicker

That sucks!

Another reason why I don't like to use the tire iron cuz you can over tighten it and break the stud...case in point. Use a breaker to loosen it and a torque wrench to tighten.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

I have a 4 way I keep in the trunk but use the Honda supplied lug wrench to remove and tighten.

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

Replace all studs with ARP, apply/re-apply anti-seize on the threads, and always use a torque wrench to tighten. You'll never have a problem again.

Myke105

Any repair thoughts =( ?

MindBomber

Is that a front or rear wheel?

genghis1

I've been driving on three lug nuts on my drivers front wheel for 2 years and no problems, don't worry about it.

lazlong

Yeah you have to remove the hub to replace it. Shop should fix it for $100 or less.

Myke105

Its passenger side front

MindBomber

That would be pretty cheap..

The knuckle needs to be completely removed from the car, if you plan on DIYing the removal then BlueEM2 made an excellent write up that's located under suspension DIYs. Once the knuckle is removed the hub will need to be separated with a hydraulic press to give enough clearance for the wheel stud to be pressed out, that often damages the wheel bearing and it's advisable that you also replace it before having the hub pressed back together. I would replace all four studs, not just the damaged one.

Myke105

Thank you so much guys, i was worried it would be a weld job and something fierce to pay for!

brobo

look if you got a bench press thats secured on a table then listen:
goto http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...QRB610269.html

studs are 4.88 come on even i can do this
then take off the bearing if its the rear one or the front you need to take off the whole wheels assembly.
press on the stud and have a socket big enough for the stud end to pop out in the socket and then do backwards for install

Running Riot

i got one in without taking the hub apart... come to think of it, I didn't even take the knuckle off the car, as I recall I think I just popped it in from the back and tightened the lug nut on and it pulled it through. It was a couple years ago. You usually break them if you don't have the threads on the right way and Hulk them bitches in place on finger ****em first until you feel them bite then tighten em down.

To the guy who posted to get arp studs.... seriously why would that be sound advice? instead of spending a 5er, some beer, hand tools, and a couple hours fixing a simple problem; lets take ALL the studs off the car and put on some equipment that will never see use that justifies a necessity for it... come on bro

I always wondered if you could use the stud itself to hold the wheels on like the BMWs do but i've never been motivated enough to try it....

MindBomber

7th gen hubs and 6th gen hubs are designed differently, a part of the knuckle actually overlaps the back of the studs, so hammering them out is impossible. That makes changing our studs a major job and a bit expensive, which is why we usually always replace all four studs as a precautionary measure.

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

Really? Let me think about this one... Do you know how many posts are written about broken studs/lugnuts? If you are going through the hassle of pulling off your knuckle, WHY NOT replace all four with studs that will likely never break again? Are you the type of person that only changes one headlight when it burns out? Or one windshield wiper, if it goes bad? Do you get the cheapest oil just to save a couple of bucks? So you can spend the money you saved on a case of Keystone Light and two tickets to the Monster Truck Jam?

I can't remember if the OP has one stud or three studs that are broken. Having a hard time recalling which broken lugnut thread this is. Most people don't bother to torque their lugnuts or use anti-seize on the stud threads. Nor do most tire shops. Do you rotate your tires, every time you get an oil change or every XXXX number of miles? There are only a finite number of times you can torque them down with generic/OEM studs. How many people actually remove their own hub and press out the bearings or studs? Not many. So if I were going to pay a shop $50 to $100 to get my studs replaced, I REALLY DON'T SEE THE POINT OF JUST REPLACING ONE STUD, JUST SO I COULD GO THROUGH THE HASSLE OF DOING ALL OVER AGAIN WHEN I BREAK ANOTHER ONE AND END UP SPENDING ANOTHER $50 TO $100. It takes 3 additional wacks with a mallet to remove the other three and another minute to insert/press them in (or no additional time if you pull them in when tightening the lugnuts). Even if I did it myself, I have better things to do than spending an hour or two replacing ANOTHER STUD, because i wanted to save a buck or two. That's the kind of advice I give, Bro. $40-$50 in additional costs to never do it again vs. advice from someone who thinks studs can be used like bolts, to hold their wheels on. I'd pay a 5er to see that.

Running Riot

.....you replace both headlights when one burns out? do you have like a drawer in your garage with all your unburnt bulbs? thats kinda dumb bro. In your knee jerk reaction to my post you missed what I meant by using a bolt to hold the wheel on the hub. If you have ever removed the wheel off a bmw, their lug nuts hold the wheel to the hub rather than the stud coming through the hub and the wheel bolting through to it.

You make it sound like these studs are made of aluminum foil. My studs have 180k mi on them 0 broken. I just don't see the justification in replacing all four studs with ARP studs like you recommended. Stock ones work just fine. If your breaking wheels studs on the reg, enough to actually NEED to use ARP studs, or worry about studs breaking all the time, then I'd suggest you stop torquing your lug nuts like a retard.

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

I'll just let that first one go, because I do have a drawer full of un-burnt bulbs. For the second part, yes I understand BMWs, Audis, etc., use bolts vs. lug nuts. What I don't understand is that you're totally flabbergasted by the thought of replacing 4 lugs with ARP lugs, but have contemplated the feasibility of using bolts to on your Civic. But haven’t due to your lack of motivation. Yet, you cannot see the ridiculous amount of effort, dollars and time involved to make such an endeavor work. Yes, I understand, you can have your hub machined/threaded and acquire the necessary 16 tapered M12x1.5 bolts to make it work. This makes total sense total sense to me vs. using a $20 pack of ARP bolts.

Moreover, for those of use that actually drive aggressively on the track or otherwise, ARPs are a cost effective option, as well as a safer method of keeping one’s wheels attached to the car. I have stretched/broken all 8 of my passenger side studs while DRIVING. And have had the unfortunate pleasure or replacing one or two studs/year on my 510, SE-R, Integra and Civic using OEM studs. Not due to my gorilla torque-ing , either. Try Googling broken studs, NSX, track, Honda, etc. I have yet to break an ARP stud, since my switch. I rotate/replace tires more often than most and have been a track enthusiast for 20 years. For a difference of $1 or $2/stud, I would opt for the better quality, hardened steel option.

I’ll let the members on the forum decide whose advice to follow…

Running Riot

...lets follow the advice of the person who miraculously breaks studs while driving.... nobody is debating the merit of ARP. they are great stuff I've used their fasteners in engine builds before.

You just seem kind of dense here so let me try rephrasing my points...
a) you advised the OP to replace 4/16 studs with bullet proof studs... what about the other 12. Should he devote an entire day to pulling off hubs for something that in my experience is a seldom occurrence?
b) yes, there are tons of threads about people who break studs.... one time maybe twice? I've broken 2 in 10 years of Honda ownership. I think most of us here have broken a couple every few years. But I have yet to meet someone that breaks them as often as you do.... apparently.
c) if your breaking them with two different vehicles then I think what we have is a user interface error, or a code ID10T.
d) I can understand using extended wheels studs from ARP if your running heavy offsets. I used extended ARPs on my Si and on a 944 that was tracked weekly at SCCA and POA events.
e) (this one is more for morbid curiosity) if you have a drawer full of unburnt bulbs...then why do you keep buying replacements.....can't you just use a pair of unburnt ones....

my question remains the same. What justification is there to replace 4 if your not going to replace 16 and what justification is there to replace 16 with bulletproof studs? You make it sound like there is a stud breaking epidemic out there LOL

MindBomber

SlimRisk

I would say aggresive driving kills wheel studs, which is what Maxtierney does. Which would be why both of his cars need constant wheel stud replacement. I would say OP doesnt look like he's one of the avid Honda Civic owners like most of us, so, my advice to OP is to replace with a OEM wheel stud and lug. To tuned civic drivers, im guessing most of them drive aggresively. Tuned cars are fun to drive, and who likes to drive a tuned car slow? Mine broke on my fault, and Im considering buying a set of 8 ARP wheel studs. My .02 to this arguement and OP

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

I never said I paid for the un-burnt bulbs, I just said I had a drawer full of them.

Here are my thoughts. Maybe you can agree with this, maybe we can agree to disagree. I'll even use "I" statements, because this is what I would do.

If I went through the trouble of pulling one hub/or was paying someone to pull my hub for me to replace the broken stud. I would replace all 4 studs on the hub, because I am **** like that. I would think to myself - Hmmm... whatever stress caused that one stud to break MAY have affected the other three (100+psi impact wrench, lateral forces, misaligned wheel, imbalance, the one broken lug distributing the load to three studs vs four, etc.) .

I'd buy a 4-pack or ARP OEM length studs for $20 from my local speed shop, instead of going to my local Honda parts department or off the internet (the price is negligible), because I would rather spend my time working on other parts of the car, leveling up to 85 on World of Warcraft, role-playing in costume in the woods, or whatever floats my boat. Rather than pulling that hub again and repeating the process (in the event that it does happen again). I'd probably do 8 studs or all 16 even, because I'm crazy like that. But if I were on a budget or time constraint, I would just do just 4. Don't want to miss the new episode of Family Guy, ya know.

Typically, I try not to disagree with people over the internet, because it makes no sense to me. It's like arguing with a retard. Or is it Re' Tard, as pronounced in the movie, The Hangover. The Original or Part Two, I can't remember. Doesn't matter, you know the correct inflection when you hear it when people pass by your cubicle.

Maybe, I got this all wrong. Dou' Che to you sir, Dou' Che. One stud for a 5er, it is. Keystone Lights on me, tonight.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Running Riot

ok the light bulb thing is a swing and a miss. what i was getting at is if you buy 2 bulbs every time 1 burns out you would eventually have enough unburned (new) bulbs on hand that you could stock an auto parts store, hence its pointless to me to keep buying TWO new ones if you have amassed enough new bulbs to supply the USMC in Iraq.... ANYWAYS

that is the point we are disagreeing on, neither of which is really pertinent to original question as to whether it is worth replacing all four while you are at it. I mean I replaced the ones i broke with studs i bought at discount. I think they were $1> when I bought them so I mean replace all four for 5 dollars? ok yeah I can see that but more than that, I don't see a point in replacing them with ARPs. Again, I autoX my hatch now on stock studs with a 42mm offset and have never had an issue, I finger **** my lugs on and torque them down with a torque wrench. If there weren't disagreements in the forums nobody would learn anything, so long as it remains SOMEWHAT pertinent to the OP. Again, just my experience.

civydcex

Whole hub has to be removed, and bearing should be replaced. I did this last year. But I went out and bought a new hub with new studs allready in place. And a freaking bearing. 200$ from dealer!!

Running Riot

damn man thats how i would do it