natefig35

Ok, so here's the deal. In Jan. of 2011 I blew out my clutch on a 2004 Honda Civic EX 4 door 100% stock. At that time I had roughly 120000 miles on the car, so the clutch failure was on no surprise. While getting that work done I went ahead and bit the bullet for the timing belt and water pump, probably waited a little long on that. At any rate I digress. Fast forward to know and since having that work done I have had nothing but problems with this pesky CKP P0335 code. I replaced, at a local shop, two aftermarket CPK sensors from autozone only to have the problem come back after a couple weeks. So after the third sensor I drove it back to the mechanic that originally did the work thinking maybe they messed something up with the timing or that maybe the water pump was leaking. They found that there was a significant amount of corrosion on the wiring harness that connects to the crankshaft position sensor but said it wasn't from any leaks. They told me this was the only issue and the only they could replace this was to get an entire engine wiring harness or tearing that part out of scrap. After checking local yards and parts stores I found a company called Aerodyne out of Chicago that made a pigtail for me for roughly 70 bucks. I took it back to the original mechanic, they put in the pigtail and said everything was fixed... again after about a month....same code PLUS another code P0135 "sensor heater circuit malfunction bank1 sensor1". So once again I take it back to the same shop hoping they will try to right this issue. Now just before I drove it out to the shop that happens to be about 75 miles from my house I pulled those two codes, only two but car was driving just like it was a CKP sensor. After a day in the shop they called me back and said that there are now FOUR codes as follows. P0335, P0339, P1298 and P0135 which are CKP sensor, CKP circuit intermittent interruption, electronic load detector high voltage and the bank 1 sensor 1 respectively. How it went from two codes to four I have no idea. Now originally when the CKP codes were coming on the actual limp mode driving was intermittent. I could drive for the most part fine but every once in a while it would chug quite a bit Usually letting off gas for a second seemed to correct it. Same thing going on now. So I'm wondering, what are the chances they messed up the timing and that that has anything to do with these current issues. Secondly In what order should I attack trying to resolve this issue. Also is it possible that just replacing the ELD will take care of the other issues. How difficult is it to replace all these parts on my own? The mechanic is suggesting I replace everything to the tune of 875 bucks. I'm not feeling to hot about that. I think I have detailed enough info on here but please let me know if you need anything further. It should also be noted that the care idles rough at times, is rough to start at times and seems to lag power as of late especially up hill. I also still have the original battery if that may be contributing to the issue. PLEASE HELP!

Disgruntled,
Nate

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

The crank sensor can be a bit of a bitch to replace. It's essentially the timing belt replacement procedure, since you have to take off the bottom timing cover to actually remove the sensor. I'm quite familiar with the procedure, and I have all the tools to do so, and it can take me anywhere from 4-6 hours to complete. Since you'd be in that area anyways, I'd double check that your timing marks all line up correctly. That can cause a bit of rough idle and power problems. That happened to me last time I messed with my timing belt. I accidentally had it a few teeth off. I corrected the problem, and my fuel economy and engine power was restored to normal.

The ELD is a fairly quick and easy procedure.. Should only take you about a half hour to do that.

As far as your parts failures, I don't know if it has to do with the fact you went aftermarket. I'm pretty picky with my parts, especially when it comes to sensors. I think the little bit of extra money you spend is worth the assurance that the parts you're using are absolutely correct. Dealerships charge out the *** for parts, so go to www.hondaautomotiveparts.com. That's where many people from the forum get their stuff from. Even though the shipping prices may seem absurd, it'll still come out cheaper than what the dealership will charge you.

The ELD is pretty hard to find if you search the parts database, so here's the part number for it: 38255-S5A-003
I can't seem to find the DIY guide that I used (if I even used one) to replace it, but this thread may help you.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...-detector.html
If my memory serves me correctly, should be a pretty straightforward procedure.

Here's the crank sensor part number: 37500-PLC-015. It took me a bit to find it within their database because I forgot they list it under "oil pump/oil strainer." Just thought I'd make your life easier if you wanna grab a genuine Honda OEM one and tackle the job yourself.

anibis

Since the water pump wasn't leaking the corrosion on the CKP wiring harness was most likely caused by the mechanic pulling the water pump and letting the coolant pour down on the plug. When I did my timing belt I ended up using a zip tie to keep the plug+sensor above the water pump so this wouldn't happen. The lower timing cover is sealed and water shouldn't get in unless you decide to park in a couple feet of water.

Like riceboy said Honda's don't like aftermarket sensors. The CKP circuit intermittent interruption code concerns me, I'd ask the mechanic to make sure the pigtail was installed correctly.

natefig35

I picked up the ELD today and will be replacing that myself. I'm not to concerned about that. I was hoping maybe that had something to do with the other codes I'm getting but sounds like maybe not. Thanks for the reply.

natefig35

Why is it that the CKP interruption code scares you? How does that differ from the other CKP code? What should I be looking for to assure that the pigtail has been installed correctly. I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and buy OEM parts. I'm confused about the time it takes to change the CKP sensor though. The last few times I've had it done it took less than an hour. I'm beginning to wonder if it's ever even been changed. It sounds as if it's quite a procedure to change that sensor. What are the chances that all these issues come back if I replace everything? Is it really that important to have OEM parts? Even on the O2 sensor? The dealership wants 320 odd dollars for the O2 sensor. That is downright laughable. Do I have any other options......other than selling the vehicle and letting someone else deal with this nightmare. Thanks again for the reply I will keep everyone posted as to the outcome.

dachuckster

I am running into the same problem on my sons 2004 EX.


When examined, the harness was all corroded. They shop cleaned it really good and put in a new sensor (not a Honda one though). This was 14-15 months ago.


Its now acting up with the same error code. We were able to buy a Honda pigtail, #04320-25A-A00, named "PART SENSOR-HARNESS CIVIC CRANK CONNECTOR BIN LKMC" and was $25.


This week we will tear it apart and replace the sensor and use the pigtail to replace the factory wire harness/plug for the sensor.


How do I install that pigtail, and how should I seal the pigtail harness to the factory wire harness to prevent those connections from corroding?