incrhulk

so im one of the millon people with the p1399 code, i've done plugs, wires, coil, pvc...etc. problem is still there. either u cant fix the problem or somebody is holding back. 2000 civic lx 1.6 y7 159,000 miles.

ezone

Everything can be fixed, you just have to be smarter than the car.

P1399 is a misfire code.
Does the car run bad? Would you know if it was running badly?
Got any P030x codes to go with it?
Got any freeze frame data to go with the code? Post it.
Knowing the conditions when the code set will help.

There are several possibilities you haven't addressed yet.
Vacuum leaks, valve adjustment, clogged EGR ports, crappy fuel, plug wires, plugs, cap and rotor, Botch Platinum plugs, anything that can cause a misfire.

Test, don't guess.

incrhulk

cleaned batery terminals bent the prongs on the injectors a bit so they fit tighter turned the distributer some. is running a lot better but when i get around 3000 rpm i can feel a little hold back for a quick sec. gonna try fuel filter next.

lovin the ej1

try the up stream oxygen sensor at all?

ezone

Why? I'm not following the logic here.

incrhulk

took my car to the honda dealer they told me #3 piston was at 80psi they checked the valve adj. then told me the adj. was good and i was gonna need a new motor because there was a blow by trhough the piston. they said they had one for 1500 and about another 1000+ for labor. im no honda expert but if there was a blow by at the piston wouldnt the plug be coated with junk? my plugs are very clean the car runs good for the problem it has. valve adj. and burned valves keep coming up when i look at forums about this, im gonna take the head of and check the valves, hope is just a burned valve. easy fix.

ezone

took my car to the honda dealer they told me #3 piston was at 80psi

Not good. What were the compression readings on the other 3 cylinders?


they checked the valve adj. then told me the adj. was good and i was gonna need a new motor because there was a blow by trhough the piston.

"Through a piston".... How about past the rings, and rings are washed down with fuel because the cylinder is misfiring?

Was a leakdown test performed, and what were the results of that test?

You may want a second opinion.

See, I know of a dealer rather close to here that will not do head gasket or valve jobs (related from a recent customer that needed a head gasket on a 7th gen). They want to replace engines on everything, and while it may guarantee a low comeback rate and lots of profit for the service department, it may be far more expensive than necessary for a paying customer.


OTOH, a used engine can be had for darn cheap, and stuffed in for probably a far lower price than repairing your engine properly.



they said they had one for 1500 and about another 1000+ for labor.

Probably would be close to the same labor amount no matter if yanking the head off or replacing the engine.
You can shop for your own used engine on line, probably in the $3-500 range. Car-part.com.


im no honda expert but if there was a blow by at the piston wouldnt the plug be coated with junk?

Depends.


my plugs are very clean the car runs good for the problem it has. valve adj. and burned valves keep coming up when i look at forums about this, im gonna take the head of and check the valves, hope is just a burned valve. easy fix.

Yes, valve issues are pretty common. Rings may be too, at that mileage. If it were mine, I might just do both at the same time......but again, it depends. (Everything is DIY to me.)

Diagnose this BEFORE you take it apart.

Do your own compression test. Dry AND wet.

Check valve adjustment yourself. Adjust any that are tight, and re-run the compression test to see if there is any improvement.

Apply air pressure to the cylinder and see where the leakage is.

If you get the head off and find the valves aren't leaking or burned (and seats are ok too), then you should assume you have ring problems and plan on yanking pistons, inspect, and a re-ring at the very least. Unless the block is scored badly.


/quick fast reply on my lunch break, not much thought involved here.

incrhulk

i got into it more with the mechanic that worked on it i asked him about the possibility of being a burned valve and he said he did a leakdown test and the intake and exhaust are not leaking then he told me the leak is coming from the top of the piston. maybe is just a small leak on the head gasket? cyl 124 were at 200psi #3 was at 80. im gonna spray soapy water around the head and look for bubbles (signs of leak). thx for ur input ezone.

incrhulk

also to add the car is running even beter now since i pick it up from dealer. they said they adj. the valves.

ezone

i got into it more with the mechanic that worked on it i asked him about the possibility of being a burned valve and he said he did a leakdown test and the intake and exhaust are not leaking then he told me the leak is coming from the top of the piston, maybe is just a small leak on the head gasket? cyl 124 were at 200psi #3 was at 80.

200 is good, 80 is bad.
I guess I'd have to evaluate it for myself.

If it was a head gasket blown into a crankcase passage, you wouldn't have any way of knowing that until the head is pulled off and the gasket areas are inspected. Possible, but not real likely.

The "wet" compression test would show a ring issue.

There are more checks and methods that could be used to evaluate, but they all take time. A leakdown test while cycling the piston from top to bottom could evaluate cylinder walls, for example.


also to add the car is running even beter now since i pick it up from dealer. they said they adj. the valves.

So is it running good enough to stop setting the code? If so, then that's all that matters at this point---right?

What does a compression test show-- now that it runs "better"?

incrhulk

havent done a compression test yet after the dealer adj the valves and now that i think about it he didnt tell me anithing about it either. gonna do it later have to dig in my shed and look for my compression tester.