Miz017

the code i'm getting is:
P1298 Electric Load Detector (ELD) Circuit High Voltage
Probable Causes: Open Short Circuit, Failed ECM

I get this code only under very specific circumstances. I drive on the highway at 70mph for about 20 minutes after work and get stuck in traffic in the same place every time. After driving about half a mile under 20mph in stop-and-go traffic it shudders really hard and goes into 'limp mode' (something i'm not familiar with, only have read things here and there about it) the engine won't go above 2500 rpm and i have to let it sit for 15-20 minutes before it will start and run again (after disconnecting the battery and clearing the CEL)

On days I leave work early and don't get stuck in traffic, I am able to drive the whole way (roughly 30 miles) without any problems.

I drive an 01 DX manual. 185xxx miles. After reading reports about this particular code I'm more confused than when I started. I know very little about electrical stuff in cars. The best advice I've gotten is "Get a new ECM." But i'm not prepared to do that just yet. Any help is much appreciated.

lazlong

The ELD is built into the under-hood fuse/relay box. It's either going to be a loose connection, stripped wire, or your ELD is going bad. You need a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) to diagnose correctly but, there are a couple things you can look at if you don't have one.

1. Look for a loose connection at the ELD (bottom of the under-hood fuse/relay box, it's the only 3P connector, #16):


2. While you have the box out have your friend start the car and look for the MIL to come on while you wiggle that connector.

Miz017

Checked the ELD and found:

1. There are no stripped wires.
2. The connection is secure from what I can tell.
3. Disconnecting it entirely does not produce a check engine light, or any conditions I experience when the problem does occur.

It seems like if the thing was disconnected entirely it should throw a CEL. But nothing happened at all... Wiggling it didn't do anything either. The wires look good so I don't think it's a short like I've read about with other people that get this code. It seems like the ECM wouldn't fail only under such specific conditions as explained in my first post. I've been told it could have to do with the catalytic converter getting hot and messing up sensor readings. I don't understand why it's going into limp mode when this happens. I know little about sensors, and less about other electrical components.... All of the mechanics I've explained this to have given me a ton of different problems/solutions, but they are all speculation....

lazlong

According to the service manual a bad ECM/PCM has nothing to do with this. It is ONLY one of two things, either a loose connection/bad wire or a bad ELD. I guess you can always get a new fuse/relay box but, the way it's acting it sounds like an intermittent fault (loose connection/bad wire). I would suggest getting a manual and a DMM and diagnosing it or get the manual so you can show the mechanic what to do.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/7...e-updated.html

Miz017

the reason i don't think it's merely an intermittent fault is that it's happened several times, under the exact same conditions, in the exact same place on the highway. like clockwork. which is why i have to leave work early now.... not worth toasting my vehicle every day. if the connection being broken in any way causes a CEL and that 1298 code, then why, when i unplug it completely while the car is running, doesn't it throw a light/code? Not trying to argue I am genuinely curious.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

I had to replace mine to get rid of that code.

lazlong

Apparently there is a TSB on this. You CAN buy the ELD separately (part number is at the bottom of the first pic).


How to remove the ELD:

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

the thing is stupid easy to replace, and costs $20 at majestic honda (www.hondaautomotiveparts.com)

Miz017

i appreciate all the info, but i'm still confused about something.

if a bad connection on the ELD causes the 1298 code, then why, when I unplug it completely while the car is running, doesn't it cause the code to appear and the CEL to come on? i'm getting the part regardless, but I'd really like to know.

also, I have another question. I'm searching for an ECM anyways, and found one for $100. the part# is 37820-PLM-A02. Unfortunately it was sold before I could get it, and now I can't find one with that exact part number. I've found other ECMs for the same year with slightly different part numbers. What is the compatibility between submodel ECMs? i've tried searching elsewhere, but i keep coming up with really vague information and am no closer to being sure i'm getting the right part.

sorry for all the newbie questions, but well... i'm a newbie. gotta learn some time. i appreciate the help.

cfendley

Any update on replacing the ELD? I have the same problem as you and troubleshot it down to the ELD or the ECM. Im hoping the ELD is the problem

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

I'd say swap the ELD anyways. It's a $20 part that'll take you a half hour tops to swap..