jdfrock2003

Hi. my check engine light came on and it ran up as a P1457, which is the Evaporation bypass solenoid valve. I need to replace it but the thing is i brought my car to the mechanic 7 months ago and they had to replace the vent solenoid assembly and the charcoal canister(they gave me no codes). is the vent solenoid and charcoal canister the same as the evap. bypass solenoid valve, or is it different.
Thank you
jdfrock2003

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

that code means EVAP control system Leakage (EVAP canister system). The canister is different from the solenoid valve. the charcoal canister stores fuel vapors untill they can be burned by the engine. The solenoid valve opens to bypass the two way valve when doing a leak check. Now this code doesnt necessarily mean your solenoid valve is bad, you need to diagnosis it to find the cause. Now if it was in the shop for these EVAP repairs and now there is another one, I would take it back to them and have them check it out. Otherwise if you have a vacuum pump and a DMM I can guide you though on what to check.

jdfrock2003

I do have the vacuum when i open the gas cap( you hear a lot of air coming out). I did bring it to honda today and there the ones who told me it was the evap bypass solenoid valve. so i'm sure that has to be it.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

so honda did the diagnosis then. Well if thats the case, go out and replace it or let a shop do it. Now when you open the gas cap, you should hear a bit of air come out, it is just pressure releasing.

mishka_12

Hello.

I also recently got a P1457 code and I know it has to do with the EVAP system. However, when I took it to honda for the test, they determined that I need to replace Purge Control Valve, which is associate with the emission system. I tried long and hard to find any association between the P1457 and the Purge valve but couldn;t.

Basically, I want to know if replacing this valve will fix the problem, or honda is simply ripping me off?

Thanks in advance.

Michael

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

anytime you have a check engine light, there are set intructions on how to diagnosis that problem. And with them deciding you need a new canister purge valve, it is possible. the purge valve is associated with the charcoal canister as it is used to control when the engine burns the fuel vapors. When the purge valve is open, the engine vacuum will draw in the fuel vapors to be burned in the engine. When it is off, it doesnt allow any vacuum to draw any fuel vapors from the charcoal canister. Your code has to do with the EVAP system, so it will check everything in that system. And the first test with that code tests the purge valve.

mishka_12

Thank you for your reply. So, is there no way to figure out exactly which valve is causing the light to come on, unless I replace them one by one? Can I drive with it for a while or am I risking causing some major damage to the car?

THanks,

michael

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

yes you can figure out what is casuing the code to come on by following the diagnosing procedures outlines in the service manaul for that code. For that code, the first procedure checks the purge valve. It says to disconnect the vacuum hose from the EVAP canister purge valve and connect a vacuum pump to the hose. Then to turn on the evap canister purge valve with the Honda scanner or by connecting ECM connecter terminal B21 to body ground with a jumper wire, then to turn the ignition on and apply vacuum to the hose. If the hose doesnt hold vacuum, then the purge valve is ok, if it doesnt hold vacuum, then it goes to another procedure. The next procedure checks the electrical circuit for the purge valve. And so on and so forth untill the problem is found. this is how all check engine codes are diagnosed.

Now you arent hurting the car by driving around, however you EVAP system isnt working correctly and you may be producing harmful tailpipe emissions. You wont pass inspection untill you fix the problem.

mishka_12

Thanks very much. Seeing how I need to change my license plates since I moved to a new province, I probably will go ahead and replace the purge valve. However, from what I understand, I may still have the same problem, because, as honda said in their form, "other valves may be replaced".

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

Well if they did do the diagnosis and said that your purge valve was faulty, then replacing it should cure the problem, if it doesnt and you get the same code, then the purge valve wasnt the original problem and you need to either yourself diagnosis it or take it back to honda or another shop.

jdfrock2003

my check engine light came on and it ran up as a P1457, which is the Evaporation bypass solenoid valve. I need to replace it and i was wandering if it effects the fuel mileage on the car cause i've been getting bad miles to the gallon. I also got the vent solenoid replaced and canister 6 months ago. is that different then the evaporation bypass solenoid valve.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

If you are getting bad fuel mileage and your check engine light is on, the first thing would be to diagnosis that problem. Once that is fixed, what alot of shops do to check and see if you are running at the correct air/fuel ratio is they will check the long turn fuel trim. That will tell them if you are adding fuel to compensate for an over lean condition or removing fuel to compensate for a over rich condition. Also check to make sure your air filter is clean, spark plugs arent fould, oil has been changed. How many miles do you have on your car? Make sure you have done the normal maintenence. But fixing the check engine light is the first place I would start. I am really not sure if that exact problem would cause a decrease in fuel mileage, as far as I know you have a leak in the EVAP system which means fuel vapors are escaping into the atmosphere. Its possible though.

And yes the solenoid valve is different then the charcoal canister and vent valve. I am not too familiar with the vent solenoid though so not too sure on what its responsibility is.

Eagleman

There is a TSB (Techniscian Service Bulletin)out from Honda on this issue, 03-001. See this link for more informaion on the problem.

forum.mpt.org/messages/9/6923.html?1130245981

This seems to be a big problem with Honda, but there is no recall in sight on this issue.

The problem usually lies with the Purge control Solenoid valve in the EVAP system. If you live in an environment where salt is heavily used on the roads in the winter, the salt gets into the part and corrosion will cause it to fail. If this problem gooes on too long it can possibly cause the ECU to short out, a quote from a Honda dealership referenced in the link above. So long term damage can be done. The re-engineered part only costs between $50 and $65 and is fairly east to replace yourself.

Mark

Zackett

Hey, i know this thread is kinda old. But i have had a P1457 code on my 99 honda prelude for a long time. I havent had money to fix in for awhile and i want to try to fix it myself. The car has ran perfectly fine, but the only symptoms i can tell is that i never have any pressure when i open the gas tank. Not to meniton i want the CEL to finally go away. Please help? i cant even find the location of the vent solenoid or the charcoal canister on my car and i cant find any diagrams

kcaj55

I can respond with confidence as I just repaired 2 Civic's in the last 5 months with P1457 error code. This is a 95% probability.
You need to order the Bypass valve Part # 17310-S5A-L31 (2001 to 2005 Civic) It ranges from $35 to $80 depending on who and where you buy it. I noticed the original valves were manufactured in Mexico.
To change the valve, remove the one bolt located above the valve location. ( Use a 12mm socket - 1/4" or 3/8" drive, with a 10 " to 12" extension to reach the bolt). Then wiggle the canister towards the passenger side until it's slightly free. The driver's side of the canister has a slot that mates with a wide tab. Unlatch and unplug the red electrical connector from the Valve; then remove the large 1/2" black hose from the Valve and canister body clips; disconnect the 1/4" black vacuum hose from the top side of the valve. Now the fun part...gently manouver the canister to gain access the large vacuum hose from the top of the canister. Finally, gently squeeze the grey retaining ring at this connector. It will disconnect and the canister will release.
Now you have the charcoal canister and valve assembly in your hands. Good luck removing the two screws from the valve as they are 99% likely to be rotten and break. I suggest to simply drill or grind the screw heads off, and pull off the valve. (Take note of the O-ring attached)
You can install the new valve, using the left over screw shanks as a guide. Clean and extenally silicone-glue the mating surfaces to hold the valve in place. It's not going anywhere as it's reasonably secured to the canister with all the hoses connected. Reverse procedure to install; then erase the Fault Codes with an OBD2 analyser.

Bandit0868

I replaced both the canister and that piece your talking about and light is still on so this advice is not that accurate

Colin42

This thread is 7 years old. Please create your own thread describing your problem and what exactly you have tried to do to fix it

emich

Thanks

Wildcat445

Just adding a note for anyone reading all these years later.

My solution was to drill out the screws, which also pulled out the threaded inserts. Filled both holes with 2-part epoxy and let it cure for 24 hours. Then I drilled two pilot holes and used two short screws to hold the valve in place.