hellboy51

i just replaced motor and tranny mounts on my 91 lx w/auto trans. old mounts were bad.with new mounts steering wheel vibrates when in reverse and at stop/redlights. no vibes in neutral or when moving. no significant drop in rpm when vibrating or signs of stalling. no shaking of entire car only steering wheel and dash.

most of other vibration/shaking threads are when braking or driving. no help to me.

i have recently done a tune up i.e. plugs, engine and tranny oil change, air/fuel filter etc. also cleaned the iacv as suggested in other thread.

do mounts need a break in period? problem with steering system? plz help

MelJ

I wanted to say warped rotors, but there are too many other things that seem to be going on. If the stationary wheel shake was out of the equation, I'd say check your tie rod ends and other steering components. But mounts shouldn't need to be broken in at all. Are the bolts fully torqued down? What about the condition of the transmission mounts?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

mounts will get broken in over the next few months and become softer. does the rpm change when shifting from drive to neutral? what happens when you turn the a/c on if you have it? could also be vacuum leak.

hellboy51

hey gearbox, update on car...
when in park or neutral rpms are at 1k, when shift to reverse or any drive my rpm drop to next rpm increment on tach( im thinking 800).
rpms also drop when i turn on lights low and high that's when the vibes kick in more. when a/c is on rpm also drop but no vibes when in neutral or park

now i'm thinking alternator? what do you think?
thanks for help bro, greatly appreciate your time

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

sounds like an idle issue but since you cleaned the iac, im guessing its one of the others like the fitv. i would take off and clean any small sensor bolted to the intake mani. it could also be a problem with the motor. our 92 accord had the same issues where it would shake badly at a stop. cleaning the intake related parts (iac, tb, fitv) improved it alot, and running auto-rx in the motor oil took it away almost completely. feels like a new car again. also before i started, the idle was high like yours too around 1k which is not correct idle. now its around 800 and everything works great no shake.

hellboy51

will try your suggestions. i'll get back with results.

btw what is motor rx?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

auto-rx.com its an oil additive to clean out the carbon deposits in the motor. prolly the only flush additive that actually does what its supposed to.

hellboy51

last night i re-cleaned throttle body and iac, also snugged up the alt. belt. and did a vacuum leak test by spraying tb cleaner thoroghout the manifold and tb area...results negative.

this morning i checked out my power steering res. was a lil low and topped it off. about a month ago i removed p/s pump and drained res. of old fluid. i refilled with some brand name of accel(for hondas according to label). other threads have mentioned to use only honda label fluid.

could this be my problem?
my rpms are at a constant 800 at stop/redlights, just the steering wheel vibes that have me stumped

btw do i have a fitv on my 91 d15b2?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

yes you have the fitv. im not too familiar so if you post some pics of the intake mani and tb area, i can prolly spot it. power steering shouldnt cause any issues with vibration.

hellboy51

cleaned air valve, engine rpm are running smooth.thanks to all for input.

however... steering wheel and dash vibrate when stopped at redlights/stops.

rpms are steady 800.
no engine shake, all new motor mounts and rechecked them.
still, when in neutral or park no problem. only when engaged in gears. i know my front suspension is bad (replacing shocks and bushings by end of month) hopefully that will take care of it.
could i have tranny issues? torque converter? shifts are good and not slipping. still in the dark on this one
maybe im just asking too much of a 20yr old.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

yeah theres only so much you can do. i dont think you can totally get rid of the shaking but at least its much better right?

hellboy51

ok gearbox, check it out, i think i've narrowed it down. i put car on jacks, had a buddy shift gears and noticed that my cat converter was shaking as well.
no time to play with it but will do so later. could cat be bad if loose, maybe a lil tightening of bolts and inspects the rubber chingaderas towards the rear. will update you later. thanks for sticking with me on this one

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

well the exhaust can shake, its connected to the engine afterall. thats why it has rubber mounts to give it some wiggle room. if there was a leak, you would hear it due to loud noises. the cat shouldnt make any actual noise tho otherwise pieces of the inside material came apart and that means the cat is bad.

hellboy51

finally i found my problem...my new rear mount is vibrating. i stuck my hand in there and felt the bolt that goes through the rubber mount vibrating. that was the last mount i replaced. it is oem,some generic brand from oreillys,
is there a fix to this? should i loosen all of them and tighten again in a certain sequence? inserts? so close to the fix, i can feel it. btw that rear mount was a "grande" pain in the culo to replace

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

i think they are supposed to vibrate? the harder the mount is, the more vibration the engine will transmit to the chassis. the whole point of oem style mount (assuming you tightened the bolts and everything) is to reduce vibration by absorbing and releasing it thru the mount. my oem mounts all vibrate but my front mount with energy suspension inserts does not move nearly as much. i also feel more vibration than stock. you may want to focus more on making the engine vibrate less. as they age, carbon and other buildup can make the engine shake more.