SGT_manny

Ok so I have changed the radiator, Changed the hoses, Changed the thermostat for a failsafe one. Changed the motor on my fan now.

And my fan is still not turning on.

Originally My fan was working then when I changed the entire radiator system and the fan stopped working so I changed the radiator fan motor. (Which damaged my new radiator some!!!!!! -_- But only a few dings which only aggravates me but I know shouldn't do anything really)

I have a new relay for the fan "ON IT'S WAY" (Not yet installed, I emphasized on it because it may be misconstrued. Lol) because my with the new motor the fan isn't turning on either. Oh And I just changed the Coolant temperature Switch/sensor just now. Still nothing.

I haven't taken it for a spin past further than my parking lot because simply put I am scared to have the car overheat if the fan doesn't come on.

So other than the sensor/switch, the fan motor, and the relay what else could prevent my fan from turning on? and what can I do to keep it on indefinitely?

Now I keep hearing about being able to have the fan run continuously with the ignition key. But I don't know exactly what everybody is talking about. I know there the thermostat housing is and I know what I am looking at but I don't know this switch thing to make the radiator turn on and remain on with the ignition of the car.

SGT_manny

Ok I just jumped the switch and low and behold the fan cam on with the on ignition.

Now what bothers me is that I put in a new switch in the thermostat just yesterday and the fan wouldn't come on. What could it be?

CrewChief

iTrader: (1)

ok. Just throwing this out there just to clear it up. Your car has 2 fans. If looking at the motor. left is your main fan and right is your AC fan. If you jumped the left fan and it works but not when hooked up correctly then it has to be the fan switch...but you changed that so I would check the fan relay.

Have you let the car run in your garage until it hits operating temp and see if the fan comes on after a while.

your fan should switch on once the thermostat opens up...normaly. Try this.

Start with cold car. Pull rad cap. start car.
Watch for rad fluid to start flowing through the rad...lets you know the thermo is open and fan should be on soon. If nothing.......change fan relay.

SGT_manny

Well I know the relay works because I have the the sensor jumped so the fan is on continuously.

It's probably I think it's that I didn't let the car heat up enough to let the thermostat open up to have the fan turn on.

Thanks for the help.

By they way keeping the fan on continuously, are there any side effects or long term effects if I leave the set up I have for the fan to remain on continously?

I have heard that it's not good but I'd like to know why because if it just means buying a new fan at 20,000 miles because I fried the fan motor I may just leave that set up being in the arizona heat of 100 degrees during the summer to prevent engine damage from the heat.

CrewChief

iTrader: (1)

well if you leave the fan running all the time it causes the car to take longer to reach operating temperature which in turn can cause you to get more carbon buildup in the Cyl. Very unlikely during the summer but can be a pain in the winter. other than that it just cuts the life of the fan.

SGT_manny

Sweet just the answer I was expecting. Thanks dude. I will probably change the set up around September before it starts cooling down here.

Good to know information. I appreciate the help dude. Thanks.

By the way how hard do you think it will be to change out my rotors? I have some corrosion build up and I am expecting it will be quite time consuming.

My biggest question about the rotors is once I get the 2 screws out it won't be an issue to just get a rubber mallet and bang it off?

CrewChief

iTrader: (1)

Bang away. You will probibly have to drill out the 2 set screws though. I would recommend a rubber malet too.

its really a fast job. 2 bolts for the caliber, 2 screws for the rotor. and reinstall.

and Remember always change the brake pads when you change the rotor so they will establish a correct wear pattern.

SGT_manny

Yeah I bought the new rotors, brake pads, and a rubber mallet. Maybe I should pick up a drill with drill bits and new screws.

Thanks dude.

CrewChief

iTrader: (1)

You dont have to reinstall those screws. They are only there to hold the rotor on while they are on the assy line. They serve no purpose but to be a pain in your *** when removing.

Prodresurgence

an impact screwdriver works awesome on those screws, much quicker than drilling. IMO

CrewChief

iTrader: (1)

^true but not everyone has an impact. I have a torque driver myself but for the guys that dont want to buy tools to use on one job there is always option B. Drill bit.

SGT_manny

So uh about how much would an impact screwdriver cost say average price?

Suntrana45

My "fan switch" turns the fan on at aprx. 206 degrees and shuts it off about 194 degrees, my thermostat opens at 182 degrees. Engine temperature on a normal day may not reach the temperature needed to turn the fan on, mine will do just fine until I get into "stop and go" traffic before the temperature comes up.
Honda's are sometimes notorious for being hard to "bleed" all the air from the system. If at any time or for whatever reason the coolant/fan switch is not submerged in water it will never, ever close (come on), for this reason it is a really good idea to read up on suggested methods of getting all the air out of the coolant system.. Have you double checked the thermostat positioning within it's housing, it has a small "bleeder" type valve that should be facing to the top of the housing, this allows pockets of air to pass.
A word of caution, do you notice any abnormal pressure buildup within the coolant system? This may be a symptom of a leaking head gasket, have you seen coolant being pushed into the overflow reservoir and then not be be returned to the radiator after it has cooled down. Coolant should expand when hot and then as it cools will be sucked back to the radiator maintaining a "closed system".....If you have any doubts the coolant can be checked with a test kit that will indicate combustion gas presence in the coolant system.....Don't take a chance of overheating a Honda, tis a really, really expensive mistake......Good Luck.

Prodresurgence

A good one is about $35. But you can get away with a $25 one if 10 bucks makes a difference to you? http://www.sears.com:80/shc/s/p_1015...5&blockType=G5

lazlong

If that's too expensive this one is $5.99. I've used mine for couple years now:

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...rce=googlebase