mnea

I am having the following power window issues on my 96 EX:

1) My front passenger side window will not open at all. When I try using the passenger side switch nothing happens. It kinda moves like it wants to open but doesn't when I try using it's switch on the driver side.

2) My front driver side window has come out of track and won't close properly.

How do I take off the front door panels and what am I looking for to troubleshoot these issues when I do?

Thanks!

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Have you found the free OEM service manual floating around the internet ?? It has a lot of info required.

You may have binding of the window that does not want to move. The one off track, I cant say.

mnea

I have the Honda service manual but can't really figure out how to take off the front door panels.

CiViCPrAnInG2k1

iTrader: (1)

search ebay... sometimes they have manuals. if that's not the case, maybe you could go to a Honda dealer and request for one?

juan_p__m

- remove handle cover, pry were you will se a tab
- after cover you will see bolts for handle assy, remove them, disconnect window switch assy
- remove speaker cove and speaker
- you will need a clip remover, carefully bry at clips that hold door panel in place and then pry panel up and out.

juan_p__m

Here is the OEM manual on the door panel removal

mnea

Thanks for the help...I really appreciate it!!!

I got the passenger side door panel off and here's the deal...When I try using the passenger side power window switch (on the passenger side) to open the window nothing happens except in the close position, the window kinda moves upwards but it's already closed and has no room to move. However, when I use the switch on the driver's side, all the windows work except the front passenger side, which does not move at all in either the open or close position. What could be the problem here?

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

With the car engine off and key in # II position and dome light on... Look for slight dimming of the dome light while attempting troubled window. ( no dimming may mean voltage not reaching motor, dimming using up and down may indicate window is binding)

Trying to narrow to electrical or mechanical problems.

mnea

Slight dimming occurs when I use the passenger side switch to try to close the window and the window moves slightly upwards but is already closed.

Dimming does not occur when I use the passenger side power window switch to try to open the window and it does not move; nor when I use the driver's side switch to attempt opening and closing the passenger side window and it does not move.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Sounds electrical, One other no cost test would be to substitute one of the back switch assemblies for the front passenger switch assembly. ( the master switch can also cause similar symptoms) Do you have a meter or 12 volt test lamp available ??

mnea

OK...I tried one of the working back door switch assemblies on the front passenger side and the same exact problem occurred. When I try to open the window nothing happens except in the close position, the window kinda moves upwards but it's already closed and has no room to move.

Anyone have any ideas???

sql_civic

iTrader: (10)

Good luck. Hang in there, you'll figure it out.

I once had my power windows stuck in the closed position on the hottest day of the year when the A/C was also busted. I swore off power windows from that day on. It was not a Honda.

mnea

The only thing I could figure out at this point is that it's most likely NOT the power window switch. What confuses me is why if I try to open or close the passenger side window with the driver's side master switch (on which all other switches work) it will not move at all. But when I try it's own switch the window does move slightly upward when I try to close it...but it's already closed and doesn't really have any room to move. This happened even when substituting a working switch from the rear door.

If not the power window switch, what else could make this happen?

mrplow123456

I'm not quite sure if you tried this yet, don't yell at me if you have, but have you made sure that the window lock is off. I sat in my car for an hour one day because my hand bumped it by accident. Just a thought.

mnea

mrplow, Thanks but yes, I checked that early on...Anyone else have any ideas?

mnea

Dimming did occur...if the window is binding, can you or anyone else expand on how to confirm and fix this type of problem?

RonJ

Regarding the problem with the front passenger power window, it's pretty clear that the switch is fine. Based on all the information, I believe that the likely culprit is the front passenger window motor. I had to replace two such window motors in a 1998 Toyota Sienna, and the symptoms were very similar to those you have described.

The attached file describes how to test a Civic passenger window motor for defects. I hope this information helps.

By the way, did you figure out the problem with the front driver window?

Nitro Express

Sounds like your window motor might be bad. I had the exact same kind of problem on my wifes minivan. I even took the motor out and put power to it. Wtih no load it worked fine, as soon as I put load on it, it stopped. BTW a cheap Volt-Ohm meter comes in handy. You can pick one up at radio shack for about $15.00. Good luck.

mrplow123456

Is it possible that the passnger motor is blown? With the driver side window, go out and buy a 20 dollar Hayne's manual, it comes in handy, and it tells you how to remove the panels. Realign the track and you should be good.

mnea

Thanks Ron, posting that file was very thoughtful. Step 3 kind of confuses me however, It says to check window operation by connecting power and ground according to table. Excuse my ignorance but I'm not really sure how to do that.

Not yet...it seems to be kind of loose or off the track. It appears to be aligned properly but then on the way up it ends up outside the rubber stripping and will not close. However, I can pull it inwards a little on the way up and get it to align properly and close.

mnea

Nitri, Thanks for the reply. Your wife is a very lucky woman to have a man like you around to help her. Once again, please excuse my ignorance but can you please explain what no load vs load means, what a "Volt-Ohm meter" is and how to use it to help me in this situation?

mnea

I've got the Honda service manual and have become familiar with removing the panels at least on the front and rear passenger side doors with a little help from my friends here...especially juan_p__m...Thanks again! However, I can't seem to find anything on realigning the front driver's side window properly in it's track. Is the Hayne's manual more helpful than the Honda service manual?

RonJ

I'll do my best to explain the motor test and the good suggestion made by Nitri Express.

The motor test illustrated in the picture I posted tells you to bypass the power window switch on the door by disconnecting the 2P connector and then to provide a separate 12V power source directly to the window motor. The motor should move the window up or down depending on the polarity of the + or - wires from the power source to the 2P connector. If the window motor does not operate as expected, then it should be replaced.

Nitri Express' suggestion (I believe) is that you also verify that the power switch is working properly by disconnecting the 2P connector and showing that you detect proper voltage from the switch-side of the 2P connector when you press the power window switch in either the up or down position. The tool used to perform this simple test is an inexpensive Multimeter that you can purchase from any hardware store. The answer about load vs no-load is testing window motor operation when the motor is either moving a window (load) or disconnected from a window (no load).

With all this said, I believe that the motor is likely your problem. To test this, you could also purchase a replacement motor from your local auto parts chain (carefully unpackage and save all packaging in case you need to return part) and install it. If the window now works, then you are done. If the window does not work (unlikely), return for a refund and simply tell them that the part was not needed.

Your other problem with the driver window alignment is likely the regulator. Check for any loose or broken parts. Comparing operation of the driver and passenger side regulator may help you figure out the problem.

RonJ

By the way, here is a picture of the window regulator in your door:

Nitro Express

Exactly RonJ

meangreen

some other things it could be...


first, with the driver door, go to an autoparts store and get some silicon spray lube! the reason it keeps coming off the track is because the track needs lubed! make sure you use silicon spray lube because regular greese wont work.

the passenger window? have you checked the wiring from the chassis to the door? there is a plug there, you should make sure you dont have any severed wiring - i did, i fixed it, now my windows and power locks work great.

also again with the pasenger window, use the silicon lube again, you might be having a problem with friction!

mnea

At Radio Shack they come in different "ranges" such as "8 range", "15 range", "17 range", etc...What's the meaning of the range rating and which Volt-Ohm meter is recommended for the money?

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Just a basic meter will do, I would go with the DMM type. Mainly for voltage and resistance checks. Some have continuity beep.

To keep it safe be sure of meter setting before test, Never apply voltage when set into resistance or current mode.

Another good tool for voltage checks is a 12 volt test lamp from the auto parts store.

mnea

What is DMM?

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Digital Multi Meter.