SlimRisk

Ive searched this site and couldnt find much on this topic but I broke 1 wheel stud on the front left and 2 on the front right. So far from what ive seen I have 2 choices.

1. Take off hub assembly and possibly have to buy new wheel bearings (88k on them)

2. Grind down a portion of the hub and the new studs to fit them in from the back with no hub removal.

A buddy of mine has air tools and my local advance auto parts rents out axle pullers with a slide hammer. But I need this car drivable asap because of the snow and I want the fastest method.

chozobody

If your going to replace a wheel stud, your better off letting a shop do it. I had to get mine replaced over the summer. Shouldnt cost more than 50-60 bucks. But make sure the shop knows their ****. I went to a big name shop in my town to get it done, and the cross threaded my 32mm bold on my hub. Whatever you do, dont grind it down. Its a long and unnecessary process.

SlimRisk

How much would a shop charge for 3 studs? because I have all the tools possible, and im riding on a tight budget with parts of my car that need painting

MindBomber

Option two will not work on our cars, unfortunately. Even ground down a stud will never clear.

SlimRisk

I thought I read somewhere that someone did that because they didnt want to remove the hub. I dont remember where maybe it was a 6th gen site

EDIT: found the DIY
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum...acement-19175/

It looks like a 6th gen, because of the suspension set-up, not a 7th gen, but it would be the same, wouldnt it?

MindBomber

You can do it on earlier gens because the hub design is different, but there's way less clearance on our cars. Once you get a close look at the knuckle you'll see, it's impossible.

SlimRisk

yeah ive looked at it before and i was like "dang id need to take A LOT of metal off for a stud to fit through there"

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

If you're gonna replace 3, you should replace all 8. It's not that difficult once both hubs are off. Maybe 5 more minutes. You dont want to do this again. If you aren't going to replace with ARP, at least use the OEM studs made in Japan, not the cheaper US versions. There is a difference, trust me. I've replaced using all three. ARPs are the only ones I'll use after stretching the threads and breaking studs with aggressive driving, not from taking off my wheels. Got old after the fourth time.

SlimRisk

Alright yeah are there any good diys for front hub removals? And i think ill create a diy for this after i get it done

MindBomber

I generally direct people to BlueEm2's ball joint DIY, since the removal process is the same regardless of what you need to do, just disregard pressing the ball joint portion and add the wheel stud stuff. When I had to do it, I removed the knuckle and walked it over to a shop, where I had them separate and press in the new studs and wheel bearing.

Here's his DIY
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...necessary.html

SlimRisk

Looks great Mindbomber. Just tried taking off my axle nut last night and that thing is a pain. soaked it in wd40 and gonna try it again tonight. wish me luck

SlimRisk

Okay, so after letting that thing soak in wd40, i got home from school and decided to try the torch. No luck. Found a 6 or 7 foot aluminum pipe that my dad said i could use. Needless to say, it just bent. So, i went to my local hardware store and got a 5 foot pipe of steel. Im kinda scared to just go at it, since thats how i broke my wheel studs in the first place, just wrenched on them. Any tips?

MindBomber

That 32mm nut and the threads are much more difficult to damage than a tiny wheel stud, so you don't need to worry toooo much.

You damage threads and nuts by taking a bar and throwing everything you can against it until it starts to move, that causes the threads on the male and female connections to flex. The flexing is what leads to snapping and stripping. It's almost impossible to break a bolt with an impact wrench, I've never heard of it happening, despite large models putting out more torque than a big guy jumping on ten foot cheater pipe, because it applies the torque in short unsustained bursts. Therein lies the secret to not damaging bolts and nuts; when you use a breaker bar or cheater pipe, put force on it for a second, release the force, then reapply the force, and repeat until it breaks loose.

Good luck bud, axle nuts are probably the second most difficult bolt to remove on the entire car. I got lucky on mine, they came loose with nothing but a breaker bar, separating my ball joints were a bloody nightmare though.

SlimRisk

So, I started my journey with the 5 foot steel pipe extension. still wasnt budging. used more force and heard a cracking like sound. backed off and noticed that the nut didnt turn at all. I thought I mightve broke the axle. started forcing some more, and bang! pics describe all...










Oh yeah and this is wierd as hell... I read that the nut was a 32mm, so I went and bought a 32mm socket. had too much play in it so I returned it and got a 31. worked fine with only a slight bit of play. I tried to see if it would fit on the front left and it was too small. Say Whaaaa?? Im so confused. Im thinking that when the car was in its major accident, it had to have the knuckles replaced and the nut they put on there had the same thread, but different size than stock.

EDIT: My old breaker bar was a Great Neck brand. Went to autozone and returned the breaker bar and they gave me a duralast because they dont make the one i own. Started wrenchin and broke the duralast one too. Just gonna go to my school and get it off with an air ratchet. The big question I have, is what way do I turn the nut? Lefty loosy, righty tighty?