crazyasian

iTrader: (9)

well ill b removing it tommorrow and replacing it with the d16y8 im. only thing is i dont exactly know how to remove it. i know there are bolts holding it in but wat would i exactly need to pull off or something before i can even pull the im out? i looked at the haynes manual at the store and it just tells basic steps but 2 things i would need to take off is 2 brackets on the bak of the im. if someone can help me out or scan their manual of a good step by step instructions to pull it out without screwing anything up. thx

cwick187

I can tell you that it is a bitch!!! If you have decent mech. skills go for it...It's pretty big job...If your not sure, don't attempt it...Sorry I can't go into specific detail, but there are TONS of things you have to do...Good Luck!!!

crazyasian

iTrader: (9)

i DO have a decent amount of mech skills workin on many cars but never really got in depth with my 7th gen or any 7th gen civic. well if someone has a quick run down of wat to do thatd b great and i might just get the haynes manual b.c it does give me a run down to unbolting the im. i hope i can get it done with no problems + ill have my friend help me out.

rice4lyfe

iTrader: (9)

This is staight off the Haynes Manual. VERY useful, get it for like 20 bucks or w/e, well worth the money!

Warning 1: Rundown-Gasoline is flammable, so be careful!!!!
Warning 2: Wait till the engine is cool so you dont burn yourself
(these might sound stupid but some people are REALLY dumb, so just be careful)

1. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery
2. Drain the colling system
3. Remove the intake duct and the air filter housing (air box)
4. Clearly label and detach any vacuum lines and electrical connectors which will interfere with removal of the manifold.
5. Detach the accelerator cable from the throttle lever
6. Disconnect any electrical connectors from the throttle body.
7. Relieve the fuel system pressure and disconnect the fuel feel and return lines at the fuel rail
8. Raise the vehicle and support it on jackstands
9. Remove the splash shield from under the engine
10. Working from undernieth the engine compartment, remove the brace that supports the intake manifold.
11. Disconnect the heater hoses from the intake manifold bracket
12. Remove the intake manifold nuts and bolts and remove the manifold from the engine
13. Remove the injector base and the intake manifold gasket from the cylinder head.

there you go!

To install its basically the same thing but make sure you get new gaskets and check the mating surfaces of each manifold and head.

umm..and torque specs....
Intake manifold bolts/nuts - 16 ft-lbs 22Nm
Intake manifold brace bolts - 104 in-lbs 12Nm

thats it!! Tell me if you need pics? i think my scanner still works. But yea good luck!

crazyasian

iTrader: (9)

^thx that helps. +1 rep. i wonder if i should drain the whole system but that would mean i would need coolant and im not sure if that one tub of coolant from honda would fill the whole system. my friend told me to drain about a gallon into a jug of milk(the plastic jug one) and then when done just pour it bak into the system...obviously the jug is thoroughly cleaned or as best as it can be done. also isnt the im gasket metallic so it can b used again? that is wat ive been told by the seller of the im. was thinking of starting it tonite but ill have to let the car cool down. any suggestions on these following things:

1)should i drain the whole coolant system or drain a gallon into a milk jug or a good sizable container? and if i were to drain the whole system will a jug of honda coolant fill the whole system or will i need another?

2)do i need a new gasket or is the old one reusable. i heard it was reusable b.c it was a metallic type gasket not paper or w.e they use?

thx again

boricua_civic

why are you changing your manifold?

XSRCivic

iTrader: (19)

might as well do a complete coolant flush while you're takin some out anyway. You could reuse the same gasket but I'd recommend going with a new one, you never know what condition its in. I'm assuming this manifold has been customized a bit to fit the d17?

rice4lyfe

iTrader: (9)

if your gaskets are in good condition, you might be able to reuse them. But it would be a great idea to just get new ones. Once the gaskets have been seated, they are compressed and lose their "seal". Just go to honda and get one, its well worth it just in case you leak or something, you dont really wanna risk it.

As for coolant, what i learned was that you pour in whatever you can with a specialized funnel taht fits the rad cap. Pour the coolant until it doenst take in any more. After that, start the car and let the car take in the coolant, it may start to bubble and stuff but thats ok. Refill if you need and idle the car until your heat fans turn on. THen turn off the car and plug the funnel and remove it. Thats what i learned from experience on Subaru cars, im pretty sure its the same.

ajhdragon

iTrader: (5)

its really easy as hell, once you get the bracket unbolted from the bottom, its like an hour and a 1/2 job max. 5 minutes if you have the enigne out.

crazyasian

iTrader: (9)

^ ahahah yea that would b nice to have the engine out of the car but sadly no. yea for those who didnt read first post i got a d16y8 that was modified to fit the car. oh and my car is an 05 civic with only 11k miles my guess would b the gasket is fine but if it isnt ill just run to the dealership and get a new one. andy told me that i would need to flush the system b.c he didnt when he installed the im so ill just pull it off. thx for the advice guys.