black28

hey guys, so i came acrossed the limping mis-firing low RPM annoying TDC Interitten Interuption Problem. so i tackled this project today. I know there are other DIY's for this that i have seen. but thought i'd try to help out with my own. do this at you own risk. i am not responsible. Enjoy!

2001 Honda Civic LX Sedan- Automatic

I was already almost done, so mosts of it has been taken apart already. but these pics should still help you see what and where you're looking for. All bolts were 10mm.

Step 1: Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable.



Step 2: Remove the Plastic Ignition Coil Wire Cover by turning the 2 Screw hooks counter-clock wise and lift it off.



Step 3: Unplug all Spark plug wires and remove each bolt for the ignition coils and put them a side. keep them in order from left to right (1 2 3 4) so you can put them in the same cylinder.

Step 4: Remove the 2 nuts on the Spark Plug Wiring Harness


Step 5: Remove the two nuts on the Throttle Cables, unplug the wire on the left side of the valve cover and also de-tach the AC hose clamp from the back right side of the valve cover disconnect the PCV hose i believe on the back of the Valve Cover. push the throttle cables up and behind the Air Box.



AC Hose Clamp


Step 6: I already had my valve cover off, but you may now loosen the bolts on it. i think there were 5. do it in this sequence couple turns at a time to prevent warping or any other damage to the valve cover.



Step 7: Unbolt the AC Hose Clamp so that you can slide the spark plug harness wires out of the way to take off the Valve Cover a little more Easily.



Step 8:Remove the Valve Cover. start by gently lifting it from all sides around to make sure it is fully losse. start from the left and lift lighty. you need to angle it out under the AC Hose. again, mine is off. but this is how you would lift it out.



Step 9: Cover the Head with a Tshirt, Rag, or any cloth that is big enough so that nothing falls into the head.



Step 10: Pull the Power Steering Reservoir straight up and push it to the side along with the hoses. DO NOT DISCONNECT THESE HOSES.



Step 11: Pull out the CMP(TDC Sensor) Wire Grommet, and unplug the wire.



Step 12: Remove the 3 Nuts on the Upper Timing Belt Cover. the one on the far left is the hardest because its in a tight spot. i simply used a rachet and a 2" extension. loosen it as much as you can with the ratchet then use a medum size extension and the 10mm socket without the ratchet and loosen it with your hand until you can use your bare hands. to get the bolt out. these are pretty small. be sure not to drop them below. once the three are removed you can pull the cover up and out under the AC Hose over the Coverd Head.



Step 13: Remove the 10mm Bolt on the Sensor and pull it out and then the sensor after. this one is very short so i suggest using the ratchet with a small turn just to loosen it. then take it out with you hand very slowly and do not remove you hand from this bolt. it'll come out in a couple turns.



Step 14: Put the New CMP/TDC Sensor in mounting it with the same bolt. notice there is a small hole on in the position to hole the sensor in place. be careful putting the bolt in so you dont drop it.

CMP/TDC Sensor


Sensor Fitting Hole
.

Do the Reverse to put everything back together. hope this helps.

SwedeCivic81

Just finished this. Took about an hour. Great write up and the pics helped a whole lot.

Thanks,

Swede

black28

good to hear that dude, it was a really annoying problem! haha glad you were able to do it and the write up helped!

fair_280zx

thanks for the help I just bought the sensor today I had a post asking about this same topic with no responce didn't know for sure if the tdc was the same as the cam sensor. I'll post if it helps me.

fair_280zx

finally had time to put it on today took me about 2 hours. I took it down interstate were it usually shut down but not today so maybe it was the problem thanks for the help.

jvcoba

Does this apply to Honda Civic 2002, as well?

RichDoyle39

I'm getting the TDC sensor message too (P1361). I've been looking around for the correct part. One auto place says $100, online says $39 . . . One person says camshaft position sensor, one says crankshaft position sensor. . . . ..what part am I looking for exactly? Honda Civic LX 2001 here . . . Thanks ahead of time!

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/south...t=0&quantity=0

#10 on the drawing, $40 + shipping

whitealexander

nice DIY with the pics.. thanks btw..

black28

i had that problem too looking for the correct sensor. i bought mine from rockauto.com

this DIY is for the Camshaft Positioning Sensor which is under Ignition on Rockauto, there is also a crankshaft positioning sensor as well but that's lower in the engine and isn't the one i've changed.

i also have a 2001 Civic LX 4 Dr Auto, i got Part # PC618 from rockauto.com

good luck

mik3boost

Good DIY,I was wondering if I need some special key to adjust the nuts with the correct forze(torque) or can I use any ordinary key??


BTW I get the P0341 error sometimes.camshaft position sensor.


Thanks

dizbstretch

great DIY, I just got done replacing my TDC Sensor from my Civic...

Molina92

Why isnt it letting me virew the images?

MassCivic

Post is 6 years old.....images prolly aren't hosted anymore.

ezone

Lift the valve cover, remove upper timing cover, you can reach the sensor as in the pics. Remove bolt, remove sensor. Don't you dare drop the little bolt down in the timing belt area.

I only have these 2 pics of a CMP sensor, in the 2nd pic the screwdriver is pointing to the CMP sensor and the bolt has already been removed.

AlexFromCali

Sorry for the bump. I just did this.
I got the camshaft position code and I replaced it.

The CAM was not TDC when I changed the sensor, but I didn't remove the timing belt since it was TDC the last 3000k miles when I did it.

I have a test pipe (straight pipe, no cat)
and it backfires out my muffler when I try ignition on a COLD START
If I turn the key to ON for 30 seconds it seems like the fuel pressure builds up and it starts.

I think this is a joint-problem so in my automatic transmission, if I rev past 3.2k at ANY GEAR it starts to stutter. BRA BRA BRA until I drop down under 3.2k rpm. Pretty much my top speed is 80-82 before my RPM hits that point and it STUTTERS. Seens like something electrical so it's not Tranny, shifts smooth.

Before I changed the sensor it would BRA BRA BRA and die. Now it just stutters whenever I hit 3.2k rpm in any gear. Honestly sounds like a racecar when i'm hitting the gas and it happens, but it's not good! I prefer to take my gears to 4k rpm..........



So ignition backfire when I don't keep ignition on ON for atleast 10+ seconds
Throttle stutter at 3.2k rpm.

I do have Cat code but it was fine until something got shaken up and I got the cam position code.

I haven't reset my ECU is that it?


Options: Reset ECU
Other:
Spark plugs (brand new little or no buildup, pistons seem fine, I NEVER STUTTER UNLESS its 3.2k RPM, no matter cold/warm engine)

ezone

Erase the codes and find out!

Jaydino75

Happy this post exists. I attempted to replace this sucker this weekend, and failed miserably; the bolt fell out and into the engine compartment. The good news is, it didn't fall into the engine itself. The bad news is, it fell into the lower control arm. It fell perfectly into one of the holes, and landed threads up. However, when I went to fish it out, I fat fingered it and pushed it further into the control arm. I assume there is no way to get this out without cutting the arm, which I don't want to do. Where can I pick up a replacement bolt for this part?

Colin42

Get one of those claw pick up tools with a magnet on the end and try getting that way. Or remove the control arm and start shaking.
​​​​​

ezone

Original bolt size was M6 x 16

Jaydino75

Thank you, guys. I will stop out to Lowes and pick it up!!

Jaydino75

Update: That was the correct screw! CPS replaced, car runs like NEW!! Thanks, all!