streetglower

iTrader: (13)

I did a DIY on replacing this, but I have never really understood on how to test it to see if it is good or bad.

According to the service manaul, it says to test the door lock actuator:

1. Remove the door panel.

2. Remove the 2P connector from the actuator.

3. Check actuator operation by connecting power and ground according to the table. To prevent damage to the actuator, apply battery voltage only momentarily.

Terminal/position 1 2 ( gives a pic of the terminal in position 1 next to terminal 2)

Lock--- terminal 1. + terminal 2. -
Unlock--- terminal 1. - terminal 2. +

4. If the actuator does not operate as specified, replace it.


Now my question is are you connecting power to the 2P connecter or the actuator? It gives a picture of the terminals as 1 and 2.

Also how are you applying battery voltage, I am thinking through a volt meter. By switching the volt meter to DC voltage and applying it very quickly, am I correct?

And the last question is in either position, is there supposed to be some sort of voltage reading? I am assuming if there isnt a voltage reading after connecting it according to the table, then the actuator is bad.

Someone please help me with this, I am just trying to learn it because I am in a electrical class at school. If you have the service manual, turn to page 22-199 for this info.

4jacks

iTrader: (3)

This probably isn't going to be much help cuase I don't have the service manual. to follow along.
I hooked up my alarm w/ remote door locks on it a while back. So I played with it a little.
It's a 12V that operates the actuator. I went to the power lock wires underneath the steering wheel, so I didn't get to the 2P connecter your refering to. But I would think you should read 0 volts of the volt meter, except for the breif second you lock or unlock the doors with the accuator, which should read 12V. If you are getting a reading of 12V steady, wouldn't that mean that the actuator is constantly pushing towards one position??

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

So would I connect the volt meter to the connecter or to the actual actuator? I am assuming I would hook the voltmeter to the actuator and if it doesnt read any voltage, then it would be defective, correct? it says to apply battery voltage to it momentarily, but how would I do that? I thought I would just measure to see if there was voltage.

Anyone else have any comments?

Just trying to figure out the best way to test to see if the actuator is good or not? Mine are fine, but I just want to know how to test it. I am trying to follow along with the service manaul, but it is sorda vague in doing so.

tacheon

The voltage is applied to the actuator, not the connector! A +12V is applied to the 2P actuator. Second of all, it is impossible to use a voltmeter to supply voltage any useful voltage to the actuator. A method you can use to get +12V to the actuator is by getting a power supply. Alternatively, you can use a cigarette lighter plug with NO ADAPTOR attached. Use 2 stripped wires to supply the +12V and ground with your ignition in the I position. Then you can use it to momentarily touch the actuator pins. You should also be using a high impedance digital multimeter for all of your troubleshooting to avoid damage to any sensitive components. An analog meter with a needle is unacceptable for any modern troubleshooting of car electronics.

4jacks

iTrader: (3)

So tach am I correct in saying that reading the Actuator with a volt meter will read 0V??
I think your saying the only way to test the actuator is to actually run it, while I think street is looking for a method that could be used for troubleshooting.
And I'm just curious =)

tacheon

Yes. The actuator will read 0V if you just put a meter to it. The only way to test the actuator is to run it. You can see if power is making it to the actuator of that door by unplugging the 2P harness going to the actuator and putting a multimeter to the harness side of the plug and pushing the power lock switch. You will see +12V when you push the switch one direction and -12V when you push the switch the other direction. The polarity depends on the orientation of the digital multimeter probes.

luk77

Hello all!

Im having same problem with my left rear door. Took the panel off and measured voltage on the harness. It turned out that I'm getting something like 3V sometimes 4.5V on lock and un-lock.... What could be bad in this situation?

Thanks for any help

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

The voltage pulse will be very short in duration and your meter will not have time to show the actual reading.

I would go with what the factory manual suggest and apply voltage to the un-connected (isolated) actuator directly to test.

Only apply power for a very short time.

Reverse polarity for up or down action.