when you have it rebuilt, make sure and give the mechanic one of these. comes with everything to fix the defective parts of the original honda trans.

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...ct_Code=559100

the last few times i opened the radiator cap, there was no pressure at all whether the coolant was hot or cold. it just opened. normally i would get a big spray of coolant everywhere and air hissing out. is this normal to happen? im not overheating and the cap is maybe 2 yrs old. oil looks good. overflow tank seems to be normal at the full line. i just changed the coolant yesterday and still not getting any pressure in the system. the cap seems to be tightening and sealing, cause there are no leaks. im having to add coolant to the overflow cause it keeps dropping a bit below max, but thats prolly from just changing the coolant.

the side molding on my '04 civic sedan is coming loose where the front and rear doors meet. the small clamp that holds it in place in the hole in the door is broken. i have the replacement clips but i'm wondering if it can be replaced from the outside or do i have to remove the panel to get at it from inside the car. thanks.

Whenever I shift gears the red oil light on my dashboard flashes a few times very briefly, almost as short as a camera flash.
Does anyone know what this means?
thanks

2002 Si owner with 92K. Stock except appearance. This is my third Civic, but first time on a forum. Civics pre-date the internet! Never had a problem before; that's why I'm on my 3rd Civic. Car has been barely driven for 6 months. Went to start and move it after one month of park- warm up idle, then it transitions to jumping idle. Goes from 1k rpm to 2500 rpm over and over. CEL eventually came on.
Thought it was just a sensor or something minor, so I dropped it off at the dealership. They came back with 1100 USD!! I've never had more than a 300 dollar repair in 20 years of Civics! (CVboots in 1995 or so) I ask for details and he tells me he has engine codes for the Idle Air Control valve, Ox2 sensor, and Electronic Load Detector. I tell him to hold his horses, need to check my bank balance. What I really do is check the internet for part prices and some forums for my problem. I find parts for 1/2 price so I'm gonna do it myself. I also find on the internet that the coolant level can upset the IAC. So on the way home from picking up the car, I get some 50/50, park on a sharp incline, and fill the reservoir (overfill). Some bubbles come out of the rad cap. The next day at home, I do the same thing. Some more bubbles come out but smaller. (and a couple of cups of coolant overflow). Reset ECU, but the jumping idle comes back. I'll try the air purge one more time, to see if I'm getting it right. My question is, before I order and replace all three parts (IAC, O2,ELD) Does anyone know which is most likely and therefore first? Are the engine codes just cascading off of each other because of one part failure? O2 is easiest, but most expensive. Should I buy a manual, or can I get enough guidance through this forum? I'm an amateur, I work on carbeurated machines, but I own a lot of manuals and ask help a lot. K engine has intake on front but IAC seems buried at the bottom of throttle body and how many systems need to be removed to get down there and get it out? Is my plan sound, or am I headed in the wrong direction? Thanks fellas.

Ok,

Civic 2004 Coupe, M5. 92000km or 57000Mi

so I mostly told my whole story in a previous thread, but I'm gonna tell you again the main points.

1 month ago, when I bought my car, I immediately noticed a problem with the reverse on my transmission. Often, it did not get into gear and the gears would just grind one on the other without any motion.

So the dealership took my car back for 3 weeks. They tried all sorts of thing. In the end, even though it isn't clear what they did, I got it back and it was in a better condition.

I've been told three things: One told me the transmission was brand new, someone else told me that MY transmission had been rebuilt (some new bearings, synchros, gears, casing...), and someone else told me that I had got a rebuilt transmission directly from Honda Canada.

What I really want to know is, is it normal that the reverse would sometimes "block" before entering into gear? Because even though it happens less often than it used to, I still get that problems 20% of the time. Then, I have to release the clutch, maybe put it in first, and then it enters. It's totally arbitrary as to when it happens.

I'm ready to argue with the dealership, but first, I want to know if I'm fighting for a real issue. My previous car, which was a Saturn with 110000Mi on it, never did that. Today, I talked to the chief executive officer and I feel like it's not going to be an easy fight.

Plus I have that freaky Check Engine light that doesn't want to come off.

Here are my options.
A) I get reimbursed and I run away with my money.
B) I have a meeting with the CEO and a technician to see what are the "mechanical" options

But before I take a decision, I want to know the opinion of you, long time civic owners that have seen a lot I guess!

-Desperate guy