Forced Induction and SwapsPost information/questions about Forced Induction methods (Turbos & Nitrous Oxide) and swaps here.
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Speedfoos' Turbo shopping list and Tips thread (August 2008 update)
OK, so this my thread to put down the shopping list for my turbo build. I will be adding parts and changing the status of things I buy as I go along. Feel free to comment if you wish, but this is to help me keep track of things, and also pass along some of the things I've learned while installing my turbo.
My whole point here is a staged build. Later this year I'll be reinforcing the bottom end (sleeves, rods, pistons), installing the PnP head, bigger injectors, and turning up the boost to hit the low 300s. But that's later. Quaife has finally come out with an LSD that works for the D17, so that's going on the wishlist.
August '08 Update - Wow, have I learned a lot since starting this.
Updated on 10/11 with new status......this bitch is boosted at 9 psi!!
Misc Parts I may not needThe goal is to keep this list short!
Tuner Toys 6th gen Civic water block ($40) DOES NOT FIT A D17. At all.
D16Y8 Hondata gasket ($30) - not needed now that I'm changing the flange.
D16 Timing cog ($10) - not needed now that I'm sticking with the D17 RA
Total spent for for everything here in this thread: $7249 (ouch).
Good Christ, I hope my wife never sees this thread. This doesn't even include all the other stuff I've done to this car!
Tips and Tricks
Here's some stuff that I figured out or was told by folks when going through this whole process.
o Installing a turbo shouldn't take 30 days, but sometimes it takes 52 days.
o If you don't want a huge headache, buy a kit.
o 3/8" SS fuel line will NOT fit a -6 AN fitting. Its close, but the line is a titch too big
o Dezod Turbo Mani - bolts for turbo flange are 3/8"
- bolts for WG are M8 (8mm)
o GT3071R Turbo - water port holes are threaded for 14mm fittings
- discharge flange bolts are M8s
- 3" ID discharge opening on 4-bolt flange
o To remove a radiator the easy way, drop the front bumper cover, steel bumper, remove the brackets for your AC radiator, and pull the radiator out from the front. Much easier to do, thanks to boilermaker1.
o When removing and replacing the head, take the exhaust manifold off, but leave the intake manifold on. Just remove the IM support brackets from the backside and disconnect all the three vaccum lines (brake booster, PCV and IACV), fuel line, and sensor plugs. Those bottom mount bolts on the IM are a booger to get off and even worse to put back on if the head is sitting on the block.
o Don't let your car overheat, you could blow the head gasket, and also burn up a coil pack or two.
o On the Y8 mani swap...You have to to do something about the EGR channels on the D17. When you mate up a D17 injector plate to the Y8 mani flange, the coolant hole on the Y8 lines up with an EGR port on the D17. Bad news. Plus there is no EGR channel on the Y8 flange. This will cause no end of problems unless its addressed during the swap.
o Tial takes 6mm ID vacuum lines and most boost controllers take 4mm ID lines.
o Primer is NOT a color.
o When running a catch can, you want to keep it as high up in the engine bay as possible to minimize the chances of oil getting into your turbo inlet. Pull the PCV valve out and replace it with a 1/4" NPT nipple. That check valve becomes useless under boost. Ensure it has some kind of baffling to catch the oil as it's designed. A plastic bath scrubbie works well and won't rust like steel wool.
o Cutting SS line is a booger, but you have like 3 options. All three of them require you to wrap the line in electrical (or similar) tape so the SS wires don't unravel as you cut. Then you can either use an actual SS line cutter (expensive), a die grinder (or dremel), or a hacksaw. The hacksaw and die grinder work equally well, all depends on what you have laying around for tools. The trick is using the tape.
o The stock Honda pre-cat pipe is just like a padded bra. It looks much bigger on the outside than it actually is. What looks like a a 2 1/4" pipe, is actually a double-walled pipe, with the standard 1.75" soda straw hiding inside. If you're boosting and keeping the stock cat, cut this bitch off and get a regular piece of pipe welded to it.
o The exit of the stock Honda cat is equally retarded. It has a 2-1/2" flange on it, however, once again, the actual pipe is 1.75". This creates a really awesome bottleneck for your newly turbo'd exhaust flow. Either ditch the cat completely and buy the $70 3" inlet/outlet Magnaflow one from Summit or cut the flange off and weld a regular 2-1/2" (or whatever) flange on there a little further up. This will change your overall exhaust system length so plan accordingly.
o When using the Tial 38mm wastegate and no boost controller, use the vac port on the bottom of the bowl, and leave the top one open. Not the other way around. If you use the top port only, your wastegate valve won't open and you can't control the boost. Trust me on this one...
o In order to run more boost than what your wastegate spring is rated for, you need to run a boost controller. If you want to run less boost than what your spring is rated for, you have to use a different spring.
o Boost is better than N/A. Way better.
o Always have a spare head gasket set laying around. You are guaranteed to need something out of it at some point shortly after you install and drive your newly turbo'd Civic around.
o Alternators shut down when they get hot from being next to your downpipe and there's no heatshield. Even when the downpipe is wrapped.
o 3-inch round exhaust tubing is really big.
o When you knock the stock Honda cat around when taking it on and off several times, inevitably banging it on the floor, and then you run a 9 psi-fueled exhaust stream through it, don't expect the element inside to hold up very well.
o The required spacer for running SRT-4 or RSX-S injectors on a stock D17 fuel rail is 14mm. You can achieve this by either using two D17 spacers or mixing and matching a D17 and an RSX spacer.
o The required length of the new stud is 45mm. Thread pitch is 6mm x 1mm - the same size as every 10mm headed bolt in your car.
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__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
Yeah, I've doing some research and may not be doing the Y8 mani swap. It may not be worth it in the end. They're sitting in a box home and when I get back on the 24th, I'll see what the deal is. The only thing I have is pictures right now. I'll see if I can get my wife to take some side by side comparison pics of the Y8 injectors and the RSX-S ones tonight and will post them up.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
Thanks, I already have a complete Y8 mani, TB, rail and sensors. Here's a pic of it after I painted it and did my poor man's PnP - basically smoothed what I could from 200 down to 600 grit sandpaper.
I got a great deal on the RSX-S injectors, so I couldn't pass them up. I will have to upgrade as soon as I build the bottom end and turn up the boost, but that won't be for about 10-12 months. In retrospect, the injectors may have been just an impulse buy, but they were cheap and I'm sure I can sell for at least what I paid for them. I'm still trying to decide which is the best way (for me) to for the fuel system. Whether I go with y8 mani swap or continue to deal with the D17 mani and just add a return line, is still up in the air. Since I'm not in the same country as my car, I still have time to read up and ask questions.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
Re: One more part to go on 5/25/2007! - My Turbo shopping list
Ah good! I couldn't remember what I ordered, I thought it was a 5-bolt. Excellent!! That's means I may only have to put a piece of flex pipe on my exhaust to make the DP work. Shweet!!
On the gauge pods, I just bought the gray 3 pillar and the black Mickey Mouse from a place on Ebay. They're not here yet either....
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
Re: All parts purchased, waiting on USPS! 6/18/2007 - My Turbo shopping list
^^^ Lots involved here. Me and a couple guys have taken a serious look at it. The EGR channel is in issue. The D17 has one, the D16 doesn't, and the D17 EGR hole lines up with the coolant one on the D16.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
