Speedfoos' Turbo shopping list and Tips thread (August 2008 update) - Page 4

andyman97 · 10-12-2007

Clint, I seriously wouldn't waste money on coating your valves or sleeves. Seriously, you're not going to put enough power through that block to break a sleeve. These sleeves are relatively thick and short of snapping a rod or breaking a ringland (which would damage an aftermarket sleeve anyways), you really don't need either thing. I'm about to have my new build completed and am shooting for 450 whp on race fuel and have zero intent to do anything with the valves or the sleeves. I am sure they will hold out. I know you don't need them for 350.

To remove this ad, register today for free or log in if already registered!

speedfoos · 10-12-2007

Good stuff Andy. The more I learn and have been reading about sleeving (cost, process, benefits, etc.) you're absolutely right. It's sounds like a big, expensive unnecessary pain in the ass. Sure it looks cool (until you put the head on) and you have bragging rights of having a sleeved block, but those bragging rights cost as much as an LSD.

So I may have wasted $150 on my bare D17 block, but it has helped me visualize some things.

Wouldn't the coated valves help flow though?

andyman97 · 10-12-2007

Why would a coated valve help flow? The dimension, swirl, size, and shape of the ports are what affect flow. The general idea is to reinforce a valve to make it stronger so it can withstand higher cylinder pressures and heat ranges. Of course, an oversized valve will allow you to machine the seat to allow for more flow, but if there's a process of coating a valve to allow more flow, its not one I'm familiar with it unless you know something I don't...

Have you already put in your pistons and rods? If not, you didn't waste money on a block. Have that sucker honed and rebuild it while your stock motor is still in the car to minimize your downtime.

Also, you don't have to have a return fuel fitting off the rail. You can just split the feed line and run a line straight to the regulator, then drop the return off the bottom.

speedfoos · 10-12-2007

Good points as usual Andy. I'll profess my ignorance on the valve coating bit, I thought that in addition to providing strength, the nitride coating also provided some increased vlow. Kind of like a Teflon non-stick pan. But hey, I haven't researched it yet so I'm going off my own logic vice fact.

Nope, pistons and rods are waiting to be purchased when I get back from Algeria in the early part of next year. Machine work is expensive enough in the states, and I don't want to pay double over here in the UK for it. Therefore I'll buy the parts over here and then start shipping things off to get worked and then sat at my folks in the states until I PCS back in the fall of next year.

I've already got a rail with the bung welded on so as soon as pony up the $250 for a decent regulator, I'm set. Fittings and SS line are sitting about 3ft. from me now.

I appreciate the advice brother!

andyman97 · 10-14-2007

If you haven't paid to weld a bung to your fuel rail, don't waste your money. You don't need two fittings on the rail, you just run a T fitting off of the feed. One side goes into the rail, the other to the regulator, then run the return off the regulator back to the tank.

As for machining, you shouldn't have to spend more than 100 bux to get your block honed. The pistons and rods are the most expensive part, everything else is relatively cheap.

speedfoos · 10-14-2007

Fuel rail was done in July when I had my pan and DP welded up Andy. No biggie at this point.

Wait until you get stationed overseas man. Block honing here in the UK will cost around 150 pounds ($300 USD), you'll have to drive 3 hours to the place, and they will still fuck it up. I'm just going to collect parts until we move back to the states.

7thgen.nick · 10-23-2007

when is required to make the fuel system a return system? is it the regulators job or the fuel pumps job to keep the fuel pressure up? can it hurt a walbro 255 to not have a return system and just have stock?

andyman97 · 10-23-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7thgen.nick

when is required to make the fuel system a return system? is it the regulators job or the fuel pumps job to keep the fuel pressure up? can it hurt a walbro 255 to not have a return system and just have stock?

Both. You have to have a pump that can flow enough to keep up with the demand your injectors have in the higher boost ranges (for your setup). All a regulator is is a valve that opens when you hit a certain pressure, but the boost referenced regulators keep that valve closed in proportion to the boost you run. It is necessary when you run out of fuel. If you're looking at much more than 250 whp, that's about when you need to do it. No it doesn't hurt to have a pump with no return.

7thgen.nick · 10-23-2007

ok, right now ill be at 5.8psi with rsx-s injects. ill prob do the return system when i go to srts and get around 9psi..

so all you do is T off the rail post, between it and the regualtor and make a line go back to the tank and thats all?

andyman97 · 10-23-2007

No, its pretty involved. You can tee off the feed line, one side goes to the rail, the other goes into the regulator. Then you run a return line back to the tank. You have to do some plumbing changes inside of the tank, depending on how you route your lines. There are several ways to do it. Either way, you need to make sure there is a filter (stock or aftermarket) between the pump and the rail, otherwise you'll clog the injectors in no time. Its a good idea to keep the venturi fitting in the tank that connects to the pickup on the reservoir in tact. Then either the feed or return line, depending on which way you go, needs to have a bulkhead fitting installed next to the stock filter. If you keep the stock fpr in the tank, you need to remove the spring inside.

7thgen.nick · 10-23-2007

hmm, aight, ill get back to yah on that one

Wolfgang5884 · 02-23-2008

Some great tips for newbs like me considering if they want to turbo their civic!

DaRk_MauL · 02-23-2008

Hey clint that a nice list....... ill be going
to china for work for 4-6 months gonna be
saving up some good untaxed money for the project, your list will help me out sinds
i dont always know the exact englisch word for it.

speedfoos · 07-29-2008

Bump because I updated the 1st post with the length the new fuel rail studs need to be.

DefiantOne · 08-06-2008

holy crap speed, nice work on the turbo build, but with that kind of cash (if i wasn't poor) i would swap in a k20a