Forced Induction and SwapsPost information/questions about Forced Induction methods (Turbos & Nitrous Oxide) and swaps here.
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See anything right in front of the shifter? Could that be a PLX devices wideband display??
yours is nice, but look at mine
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__________________ SRT4 w/ built motor/head/tranny/ams spec37r+35lbs of boost/aem ems/1300cc injectors plus nitrous...Coming to a town near you March 07
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Nice to see someone building up the car the right way
Just wait - I'm not done yet, heh! Tonight I installed my vacuum manifold, which I bought from McMaster Carr - awesome little deal. Installed my Golden Eagle sandwhich adaptor a few days ago.
That's why it has taken me so long to boost - I've thought things out a lot, and decided to do things right!
Well guys - with the exception of a few small odds and ends that I need to clean up, the car is DONE!
I spent 90% of the time when I came home from work this week working on it. Today I worked on it ALL day.....It feels good to finally have it installed.
Stafford sure fvcked up a lot of things for how much I paid. The flange on the down pipe needed to be milled - fit like a glove afterward. The other flange surfaces were slightly warped. Damn shame they didn't have time to fix those problems properly. Its actually rather amazing that his kits even work at all, considering all of the custom work that I had to do to make *my* install work.
The hardest part about all of this was trying to get the damn wrenches in such tight places to tighen bolts (wastegate, oil return line, etc). Other than that - there were a lot of trips to Lowes for extra bolts and misc parts. It took a LONG fvckin' time - but I'm almost ready to fire it up.
Tomorrow will consist of testing to see if the fuel system is good, electronics work, and if I have any oil leaks. Since I don't have a real boost gauge installed yet (my Autometer custom LED gauge) - I might have to wait to drive the car until I can calibrate it - I might just temp a autometer boost gauge in when I can stop at titan or wherever and pick one up.
Worried that there will be problems tomorrow when I try and fire it up. I took my time, but there's always going to be issues at first. Everything fit so tight, all I hope is that there won't be any rubbing issues.....
I'll post pictures tomorrow, wish me luck!
Last edited by opto_isolator; 08-28-2004 at 09:10 PM.
hey... wouldnt u benefit more from the turbo if u was running vtec cause the lobes open up more and let more air in
isn't hte point of a turbo more air? All you have to do is turn up the boost to add more air... isn't it more tuning fuel and spark to accomodate the boost that determines how well your setup works? I doubt the lame V-tec in the D17 would make a significant difference with a turbo...
compression would be higher... how would it be higher if he adds vtec?.. he would still be using the same compression form his Lx block??
EX has a slightly higher CR. For me, it really wouldn't make a big difference to do an EX head swap, since I plan on getting a PnP head and more agressive cam later. The cam would essentially be my vtec.....
isn't hte point of a turbo more air? All you have to do is turn up the boost to add more air... isn't it more tuning fuel and spark to accomodate the boost that determines how well your setup works? I doubt the lame V-tec in the D17 would make a significant difference with a turbo...
well.. yes u are right.. just turn things up... but take this into consideration..
lets say u have a DX/LX engine and a DX/LX engine with a vtec head and they have the exact same turbo setup with the exact same settings all running at 8psi.. who whould put out more power at the wheel???
i would think the DX/LX with vtec would put out more horsies cause it lets in more air when the lobes open up.. people say weaktec but the vtec gets enhanced when turbo is put in.....
now i know ur gonna say just turn up the settings on the nonvtec engine.... well that just means u gotta work it harder just to be on par with the vtec setup???.. dont u think??
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EX has a slightly higher CR. For me, it really wouldn't make a big difference to do an EX head swap, since I plan on getting a PnP head and more agressive cam later. The cam would essentially be my vtec.....
i know the ex engine itself has a higher compression... but what if u take the block u have now and just swap the head with a ex head so that way u have vtec.... that should still give u the low compression the dx/lx has but with added vtec lobes that open up to let more air in???
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I'm not gonna try and pretend I'm the turbo expert some of the people on this site are, I'm just thinking hypothetically... I'd love to see some tests, you're probably right to a certain degree...
Quote:
Originally Posted by xproductionz
well.. yes u are right.. just turn things up... but take this into consideration..
lets say u have a DX/LX engine and a DX/LX engine with a vtec head and they have the exact same turbo setup with the exact same settings all running at 8psi.. who whould put out more power at the wheel???
i would think the DX/LX with vtec would put out more horsies cause it lets in more air when the lobes open up.. people say weaktec but the vtec gets enhanced when turbo is put in.....
now i know ur gonna say just turn up the settings on the nonvtec engine.... well that just means u gotta work it harder just to be on par with the vtec setup???.. dont u think??
Good news! After performing some inital checks, and testing my gauges - it starts!!
I do have a few minor problems (such as SF's damn downpipe design - I have an exhaust leak!! I need to find a donut gasket that will fit). I can tell the emanage injector correction feature is active, the car idles a little rough - needs tuning. The A/F is almost dead on tho - right around 14.7-15 at idle, so I'mn not worried about it being lean at all.
Still need a boost gauge before going for a ride - last thing I need is to blow the engine after all of this work!
I let the car idle (up on jackstands) until it reached operating temperature. So far there are no oil leaks, or smoke. I'm crossing my fingers that this won't change!
Great job man, is the A/F gauge you are using expensive for a widaband one, or is it a modified regular one?
Its a PLX devices wideband - M300. It only cost about $329. It has datalogging capability if you have a hondata or some way to capture serial data.
They sell an interface module which will convert the readings of the autometer A/F gauge to wideband - which is GREAT because the actual PLX display will tell you what exactly your A/F is, but the autometer gauge is an idiot light, I can tell if I'm rich or lean by a quick glance.
Yes, OK. I have Autometer Idiot light then, swinging back & forth. Does the interface module that converts to Wideband have an LCD display for the A/F. Expensive?
Yes, OK. I have Autometer Idiot light then, swinging back & forth. Does the interface module that converts to Wideband have an LCD display for the A/F. Expensive?
The $329 I quoted included the converter. Seperate it runs about $29. It only works with PLX devices widebands however...
Its actually rather amazing that his kits even work at all, considering all of the custom work that I had to do to make *my* install work.
