FAQ: For engine block internals (updated july 06) - Page 3

obguam · 11-26-2004

This is a very helpful post. Thanks amigo.

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supermex · 11-26-2004

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIZZLE

So whats were the dyno results?

We just ran into a snag with e- manage and had to reschedule for another run next week.
I'll only be boosting about 8psi during the turbo brake in period.
So I don't expect much till later, probably in Jan when I get the RSX injectors and returnless fuel system install.

02sleeper · 01-29-2005

ok dude are you running a stock crank and is the sleeving ordered as a d16 with a 75 m size and the pistons are 75 also, and is the sleeving a direct fit or did you run into problems

XSRCivic · 01-29-2005

the block is bored and sleeves are pressed in.. he used 76 mm pistons rather than stock (75). the only problem he stated was the bottom of the sleeves needing to be notched out in order for the rods to pass without hitting the sleeves. crank is stock also i think. i guess he will confirm all this. i've read that post multiple times, should have it memorized eventually. and i've already asked him if he has any specs on what notching they did to the sleeves.

02sleeper · 01-29-2005

sweet thanx dude i just cant wait for the after market to hit this car i mean come one its a civic why havent they started any civic before these there are millions of parts. and are you doing a project to i am and its going to be turbo auto the rarest combo d17 turbo built and AUTO

02sleeper · 01-29-2005

what site did you get the rods on there not on crowers site

Havok2k1 · 01-29-2005

C2i0v0i1C has posted the specs on the rods a bunch of times, just search for them... It includes the part #....

kileryoyo · 07-03-2005

Sorry for the extreme necro post but I just have to know what were his numbers?

supermex · 07-04-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by XSRCivic

the block is bored and sleeves are pressed in.. he used 76 mm pistons rather than stock (75). the only problem he stated was the bottom of the sleeves needing to be notched out in order for the rods to pass without hitting the sleeves. crank is stock also i think. i guess he will confirm all this. i've read that post multiple times, should have it memorized eventually. and i've already asked him if he has any specs on what notching they did to the sleeves.

I don't have any measurements for the notches.
Pretty much we kept notching till the rod cleared
Here are detail pics so you get an idea

Also noticed the block guard I installed.
The holes are enlarged for better watter flow

All part numbers are included on the original post #1
With the contact number of where to get them

Once I get the images figured smaller I'll update the original post #1

supermex · 07-04-2005

I'll like to mention that the bearings are recomended and there is specific measurements for each engine.
You'll have to mach the number of the crank to the numbers on the block then using the tech book it will tell you what color combination to use.
The same goes for the rod bearings.
Very important.
All this info is very lenghty to explain the best way to learn it is to actualy read the service manual under engine rebuild.

02fpcivic · 07-04-2005

Yeah I have the honda manual and you NEED these specs. There are like 4 different rod and 4 different main bearing sizes and every engine could have a different combo. DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS STEP.

jay78 · 07-05-2005

how much the labor cost....for pistons >?? around 1g???

can it be done on a/t ??
if yes
is it worthed ?

supermex · 07-06-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay78

how much the labor cost....for pistons >?? around 1g???

can it be done on a/t ??
if yes
is it worthed ?

All labor prices are up to the shop.
Different shops different prices.
My suggestion to you is to find two or three shops and get quotes.
It took me a year and I was patient and carefuly coordinated each step at the time.
I did a lot of reseach and a lot of the foot work my self.
There are no easy answers just got to do your homework.
Parts and contacs are included on the first post.

Is worthed if you do it right and don't get discourage if you do something wrong.
Be realistic about ther power you want.
For me is worth it just for the experience and all that I'm learning.

Read the first post entirely a lot of your questions are answer there.

kileryoyo · 07-09-2005

Super If you dont mind saying how much is your built engine putting out? and on how much psi?

supermex · 07-09-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by kileryoyo

Super If you dont mind saying how much is your built engine putting out? and on how much psi?

I tunned at 225 hp at 12psi 200lbs torque

I just got done installing a suplement to the return fuel system.
That will aloud me to keep a liter of fuel always available without drying up the line.

Also I installed some electronocs that I purchased from OPTO and installed by OPTO

So will see what happen at the next roll.

My goal is not to run so much and test how far I can take the engine.
My goal is to do realistic numbers safetly without blowing anything up.