Fuel system converted today - LOTS of PICS *56K go for a walk*

opto_isolator · 02-22-2004

I installed the Aeromotive FPR yesterday, todays task is to actually install the pump, return line, and fuel rail. Its going to be a bitch, I'm assuming. I think I have everything I need, of course I'll find out half way through the job if I don't! I'm going to try and document as much of it as I can (in terms of installing the pump, etc), and post some photos for you all to see.....

Wish me luck!

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Kloverz · 02-22-2004

good luck man i wish i have the balls to do that to keep me updated how easy or hard it is,

Boosted2k2 · 02-22-2004

Good luck, let me know if you need some help

opto_isolator · 02-22-2004

Pictures first -

C2i0v0i1C · 02-22-2004

be verrrrrrrrrrry careful with those clamps bud, i had one of them pop off and so did BOOSTED2K2, carry some tools with u at all times, i personally have 4 clamps holding mine on

opto_isolator · 02-22-2004

Ok - now the explanation....

First of all - this isn't something to do for the non-mechanically inclined. It took me 2 days to do this. The first day I mounted / installed the Aeromotive pressure regulator. Today, I completed the task by running the lines, and converting the fuel pump.

The first picture shows the complete pump assembly taken apart. Its orange due to the gas....

The stock pump is a little smaller than the new one (Walbro), so the fuel pump cage had to be modified to make it fit. This is where a Dremel comes in handy, as you can see from the pictures. One of the catches that I ran into (due to previous DIY's being incomplete in detail) was that the stock pump has the discharge on the OPPOSITE side of the pump (ie its 180 degrees from the stock pump). This makes it a little difficult to reinstall the new pump. Some cutting is required from the pump cage.

I also cut and enlarged the "entry" hole, as seen in one of photos below (due to the fact that this is a high volume pump, I wanted to ensure that the pump was getting adequate fuel).

I used 5/16" fuel injection hose from the pump discharge to the filter assembly. It worked great. Instead of messing around with plugging the stock regulator, I just removed it completely. Looking at the design of the filter, the opposite end is supposed to feed back to the stock pressure regulator. I used 3/8" hose for that outlet, and just used a brass plug in the end. Its much simpler than messing around with the stock regulator (which isn't needed anymore).

One thing to watch out for is routing of the fuel hose. If its not routed properly, the rotating cage assembly will not rotate when installed in the tank. It must be free to rotate, otherwise the sending unit may not show the proper fuel level. Be CAREFUL with the sending unit when removing the pump from the tank - it is fragile!

I didn't have any leak problems, thank god. I didn't follow the directions that came with the FPR, since the fuel pressure wouldn't be correct (it said to adjust the pressure with the vaccum hose disconnected from the FPR. When I connected the vaccum hose, the pressure would drop to 35 PSI, causing a lean condition - I heard pinging at idle! The HELM manual says that the fuel pressure should be around 45 psi at idle, so I just installed the hose and adjusted it to 45, voila no more problems).

So....one less thing to do with installing the turbo.....Any questions, ask!

opto_isolator · 02-22-2004

Pictres of the engine bay -

yummy

opto_isolator · 02-22-2004

Quote:

Originally posted by C2i0v0i1C
be verrrrrrrrrrry careful with those clamps bud, i had one of them pop off and so did BOOSTED2K2, carry some tools with u at all times, i personally have 4 clamps holding mine on

Actually, those are fuel injection hose clamps, which are designed to be failsafe (ie, they won't fall apart unlike those other hose clamps with the screw).....They are on there pretty darn tight. Did your's pop off under boost or under normal conditions?

C2i0v0i1C · 02-22-2004

normal, i was driving down the highway, and lost all fuel pressure, car shut off

opto_isolator · 02-22-2004

At least the car died, instead of something else catostrophic happening!

C2i0v0i1C · 02-22-2004

yea

jwcardy · 02-22-2004

looks really good...what did it finally cost you to do the setup

opto_isolator · 02-22-2004

Somehwere between $300-400.....and a lot of time!

Boosted2k2 · 02-22-2004

Quote:

Originally posted by opto_isolator
Actually, those are fuel injection hose clamps, which are designed to be failsafe (ie, they won't fall apart unlike those other hose clamps with the screw).....They are on there pretty darn tight. Did your's pop off under boost or under normal conditions?

Yeah, mine popped off in a construction zone where they were about to pave. Got the unit out of the tank, lines tightened, and back in the tank in 10 minutes. I'm a pro lol. When I made it home, I tightened it extra tank, and added an extra clamp at every spot. So make sure they are tight... like TIGHT! Good job though.

Boosted2k2 · 02-22-2004

The only criticism I have is over the return line. I think SS braided would be a better choice (even though it's really expensive). Only for the fact that the line runs under the car. It's just less of a chance of it ever rupturing if you hit something or what not (even if the chance is already small). It's a personal preference though. You did a good job.