^^ going on that.
since the automatic has only 4 gears, i would assume its ONLY safe to spray in 2nd and 3rd?? Not only that, we wouldnt have to worry about spraying in the wrong gear besides 1st, becuase when we floor it The tranny automatically downshifts, RIGHT??
so to sum it up for automatics, the only things we really need to have / worry about is:
-- not spraying in first
-- having a window switch
Originally posted by MIAMIVTEC 01WINGSWEST & SPDRCR>> how much were your gauges? and how much did u pay for the zex? if u dont mind. did u install it your self? Do u recomend we have a shop install it?
Also, this might be a dumb question... but are there two switches 1) to spray and 2) to clean the lines (purge)? and if there are, are they included in the kit? thanks>
If you're a butt monkey when it coems to mechanics or wiring, then have someone do it for you. You'll be better off.
Purge kit is usually purchased separately from a n2o kit and they WILL have separate switches. Depends on where and who you buy it from.
BTW...gauges go for like 45-50 bux on ebay. that's ur price range. Get an in cabin n2o gauge and an a/f gauge (wideband is better, but narrow band is less expensive).
Last edited by SpdRcrChk : 04-27-2004 at 06:17 PM.
Originally posted by AzNmiKex215 ^^ going on that.
since the automatic has only 4 gears, i would assume its ONLY safe to spray in 2nd and 3rd?? Not only that, we wouldnt have to worry about spraying in the wrong gear besides 1st, becuase when we floor it The tranny automatically downshifts, RIGHT??
so to sum it up for automatics, the only things we really need to have / worry about is:
-- not spraying in first
-- having a window switch
is that all? feel free to correct / add
Wrong. You CAN spray in first. and you DONT need a window switch.
Window switches are for those people who have a habit of or are scared of redlining too much, too often, or spraying at too low of an RPM. I don't see what's so hard about lookin at the tach before you spray?? Window switches are for people that want like an "added safety feature". But you don't NEED it. All you have to do is watch ur RPM's. Simple as that.
And you can spray in first. Hell i did it all the time at the track. Launched the car with the nitrous activated (then again i have a manual). I don't recommend it on the street "much" because you will have no traction whatsoever. If you're automatic then it doesn't matter because most if not all of your races will be "rolling"races...that is...if you want any advantage/traction whatsoever.
I know you shouldn't spray for more then 15secs, which is less then it should take to do a 1/4 anyway but how long should you wait in between these 15secs?
like would nitrous be suitable for circuit, like if you got the a/f,n20 guages and like oil temp and oil press, and water temp to monitor all your s#!t so you dont over do it.
anyone w/7thgencivic runnin nitrous for circuit that I could talk to?
My friend is runnin a Si/SiR Turbo on the circuit and I am not sure if the n2o will cut it
I just want to keep up with him.
I got another question if you are equipped w/remote opener and you have the bottle closed and the system off can you just turn it on at any time like when your moving and spray or do you always have to be at a stop when you activate the system?
I got another question if you are equipped w/remote opener and you have the bottle closed and the system off can you just turn it on at any time like when your moving and spray or do you always have to be at a stop when you activate the system?
You can turn it on at ANY given moment. Whether you're moving, or at a stand still, does not matter. Thats the whole purpose of the remote bottle opener. To open the bottle at anytime, even if its out of arms reach.
From what I understand, the 15-20 second rule is there not because your engine cant handle it, but because the solenoids are usually only designed for intermittent use. Using them for any amount of time beyond that can ruin them. Even if you could use it for longer than 20 seconds, you probably wouldnt want to because of the loss of pressure inside of the bottle. How long do you think you're gonna need to be spraying for? If its for an extended period of time, you will probably end up running the bottle empty. Nitrous is most useful in drag racing IMO.
Nitrous FAQ III
Relative Specifically to the 7th gen. Civic.
Q: OK, so no chip, but what about nitrous with a turbo or supercharger?
A: First off, for the last time, THERE IS NO SUPERCHARGER FOR THE 7TH GEN. Most people only use nitrous with turbos to help spool up the turbo. If you don't know what turbos and spooling are, search, its lengthy and would be another thread in itself.
i hate for my first post to be me correcting someone, but it bothers me when people are misinformed. When you said that there is no supercharger for the 7th gen, that was a little broad. Maybe you said this because the majority of the members dont have an Si? The 02-04 Si (EP) is considered 7th gen civic and has a Jackson Racing supercharger available for it. Just thought i should clear that up... sorry if i offended anyone.
I ran a 14.4 in the 1/4 with a 2.3 60ft time slip on a 75 shot, NX wet kit with a stock clutch slippin and some dead drag radials. Those who know me on this forum probably already know this. Its nothing new. If you're looking for a quick fix on a stock block that is cheap to install and easy to win from a dead stop then nitrous is the way to go, but if u want a good overall increase in daily driven power on a stock block then turbo is the way to go, but you still wont be as fast as some of the other honda's with swaps already done that all already match the same torque-to-weight ratio N/A as you are already carrying with your turbo. In other words..if u dont plan on rebuilding the D17 and u just wanna win some from a dead stop then go with nitrous, but if u want more effiicient power across the board on a daily basis then go turbo.
