Forced Induction and SwapsPost information/questions about Forced Induction methods (Turbos & Nitrous Oxide) and swaps here.
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Originally posted by ShYbOy so what are the basic mods to make it ready to install nitrous? and what websites or places are there to buy good prices on nitrous, zex, nos,...etc...
Like 01 said....there really aren't any "basic" mods that you need for n2o. But......it would be nice to have an intake, header, exhaust, etc. etc. It would also be nice if you had an AFC so you can dyno tune the car.
Ebay is prolly you're best bet for the n2o kit.
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detonate....you meen blow the f#*k up?...I have been thinking about it for a while. But you don't know if your engine is going to "detonate" untill you suck the bottel a few times, right?
Detonate doesnt necessarily mean you've blown up or you're going to. Its just means some bad wear that is taking place. Yes, severe detonation can cause servere damage to an engine thats why its important to check your plug consistently and act accordingly.
Our cars respond pretty well to nitrous. Most of my time sprayin has been with using the 75 jets. Everything still fine and still runnin strong with exception to the clutch. Mine slips spmetimes so I'm working on buying a new one now. Thats one thing u can pretty much count on replacing after a lil while.
Originally posted by thiscrackerntam Detonate doesnt necessarily mean you've blown up or you're going to. Its just means some bad wear that is taking place. Yes, severe detonation can cause servere damage to an engine thats why its important to check your plug consistently and act accordingly.
detonation means that the AF mixture inside the cylinder is combusting before it should be, which can lead to a blown engine. the occurance of detonation is not bad wear, it CAUSES bad wear and if it continues and nothing is done to correct the problem, then ull have a bigger problem. HIGHER OCTANE fuel can greatly reduce detonation, the higher the octane the more stable it is, the lower then well obviously its less stable. if u are adding anything to the combustion chamber i would just get new plugs anyways, to make things better, they are not really that $$$$$$ anyways
meaning like, dont cruise at like 3k rpms in 3rd or 4th (where are cars are slugs) and start spraying, once that nitrous pools up in the manifold... thats all she wrote. after mine let go, i had to replace the manifold, and throttle body assembly.
01WINGSWEST & SPDRCR>> how much were your gauges? and how much did u pay for the zex? if u dont mind. did u install it your self? Do u recomend we have a shop install it?
Also, this might be a dumb question... but are there two switches 1) to spray and 2) to clean the lines (purge)? and if there are, are they included in the kit? thanks>
ok here is a question, what is the Zex 10 lb bottle rated at, i mean like how hot can it get in my truck before it will blow the saftey disk, and what is the max pressure, i tried to look on the zex website but i couldent find the specs on it. has anyone had a problem with heat?
okay, i have a 02 DX automatic, gonna be getting an EX HP Header, and Greddy Evo 2 exhaust, what's the highest shot i can safely run? all i need is the wet system, and new plugs.. or anything else?
