Way I did it....off the line...rev up to about 4-5 grand.....but instead of just dropping the clutch and punching the gas on the go....I'd feather the gas and the clutch till i caught traction, and then proceeded to punch it. That's the way to do it when runnin it off the line and spraying infirst gear.
You can always just hit the switch in second once you've got traction. Or get a window switch. But doing it the way i said is fine and prolly better once u get the hang of it.
Originally posted by nolimitz21 what are some specs on like a 50 shot of nitrous on a stock civic. there is a guy i know that is running a 14.5 with a hatchback and i want to know if i would beat him or just an estimate of what i would be running with nitrous on my stock d17
not sure about the numbers you'd get...elevation and weather along with driver skill could add up to as much as .8 +/-. With a 50 shot i'd expect to see low 15's....if not a 15 flat. a 75 shot would probably put you in the mid 14s on a stock vic...tires would hold you back though
what is wot, sounds stupid, but no ones has answered it in like 5 pages and in all the posts i've seen. wot meaning 4 rpm or more or what? what just purging, can u just purge but not shot or do u have to since u cleared the line? im talking manual transmission by the way. say im driving and going like 4 rpm in 3rd gear and i keep it in third gear and just run through the rpms will the nitrous shot or what? if it does wouldn't it readline or no? does the nitrous cause it to redline or no? no ones really explained this cuz i haven't read it in any posts. im asking more how it works like step by step going through the process. ie: start at 3-4k then shift at 7k then in second gear go to 5k etc... like when would it activate or when should u activate it or how it activates. im confused on this part. and on how it would run the rpms up or whether it wont. wot doesn't mean anything to me unless u explain it to me
, what just purging, can u just purge but not shot or do u have to since u cleared the line?
Purging is just clearing the lines. No you don't have to spray afterwards. Hell, if you wanted to you wouldn't ever have to spray ur car at all, just go around purging. LoL But spraying is much more fun.
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say im driving and going like 4 rpm in 3rd gear and i keep it in third gear and just run through the rpms will the nitrous shot or what? if it does wouldn't it readline or no? does the nitrous cause it to redline or no?
The nitrous doesn't cause it to redline or hit the rev limiter...you will if you don't shift in time. All the n2o does is make you faster, therefore, your RPM's / Speed will climb quicker. Just make sure you shift BEFORE 7000 RPM's. And yes....assuming you have a WOT setup....you will spray all the way through the gear until you shift/let off the gas. I wouldn't recommend power shifting......I would recommend quick shifting.
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no ones really explained this cuz i haven't read it in any posts. im asking more how it works like step by step going through the process. ie: start at 3-4k then shift at 7k then in second gear go to 5k etc... like when would it activate or when should u activate it or how it activates. im confused on this part. and on how it would run the rpms up or whether it wont. wot doesn't mean anything to me unless u explain it to me
Ok here it goes...this is an EXAMPLE. It wont necessarily be like this every single time....sometimes you'll be in other gears, sometimes you'll be launching out the hole....w/e.
Say you're cruising down and you're about to race someone from a 2nd gear roll. Make sure your nitrous is activated (i.e. the switch is positioned to ON if you have this common setup and your bottle is open). Once you decide to go .....when you FLOOR the pedal (meaning you'll be at WOT) the nitrous and fuel mixture (if you have a wet kit) will spray into your TB (throttle body). Make sure you shift before 7grand......and then once you're in the next gear and at WOT again...same thing happens, etc etc.
Whether you're more comfortable with power shifting or quick shifting is a matter of choice. I always quick shifted and never had any trouble.
What RPM, what gear, what mph etc all depends on the race. They wont all be exactly the same.
im probably not the only one to want to ask this but, ... if u put the bottle in the trunk and i have a sub in there, would bumping the subs cause increased pressure in the bottle causing it to explode because its a gas and by shaking it, it causes it to expand? what would u do if it does become pressurized? i saw to use a cool towel but i think that was if it becomes to lean (to pressurized from warming it to much) also, on ur example, u said wot is wide open throttle, i kno that, but when u say wot, u mean slamming on the gas pedal and causing it to accelerate fast? also, if u are accelerating to 7000rpm would u get there quite quick considering the nitrous makes it go a lot faster? then u said u have to shift at like 7k, so the nitrous really is only running for a short few seconds. then once u shift theres no nitrous until u slam on the gas in the next gear which makes it continous from gear to gear or no? how long would u be able to do this, like from gears 2-4 or so? cuz if u go through all the gears its a good 10 seconds or 15. would that be safe on ur engine. im full of questions, sorry to ask them all just curious and considering buying it but not sure on many things. read up on all the posts in the forum and on the nx site. still doesn't answer all my questions or concerns.
Originally posted by slicksivik im probably not the only one to want to ask this but, ... if u put the bottle in the trunk and i have a sub in there, would bumping the subs cause increased pressure in the bottle causing it to explode because its a gas and by shaking it, it causes it to expand?
It's heat that causes the n2o to expand. That's why people use a bottle warmer. Gas expands, pressure increases. And that's why they COOL bottles before they fill them (the opposite).
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what would u do if it does become pressurized? i saw to use a cool towel but i think that was if it becomes to lean (to pressurized from warming it to much)
THat last one seems hard to understand. But from what I gather.....cooling the bottle lowers the pressure. Warming it up increases the pressure (i.e. the gas expands). If you have a purge...and you have too much pressure, you can always just purge to lower the pressure in the bottle.
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also, on ur example, u said wot is wide open throttle, i kno that, but when u say wot, u mean slamming on the gas pedal and causing it to accelerate fast?
Wide open throttle means the pedal is on the floor and the throttle body is wide open. Take off your intake and look into your throttle boddy. When you accelerate....it opens up. The amount that it's open depends on the throttle position. WOT means just that.....its wide open...and this occurs when you floor the pedal. And yes....if you're at WOT you will accelerate faster than if you were at say 35% throttle. The RPM's that you're at when you floor it does have an effect too.
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also, if u are accelerating to 7000rpm would u get there quite quick considering the nitrous makes it go a lot faster? then u said u have to shift at like 7k, so the nitrous really is only running for a short few seconds. then once u shift theres no nitrous until u slam on the gas in the next gear which makes it continous from gear to gear or no?
Once again...if your set up is hooked up to spray at wide open throttle...technically when you're shifting gears you're not at wide open throttle (like if you're quick shifting....lifting your foot off the pedal briefly between shifts and then slamming it again once you're in gear) And yes....the n2o only sprays (if your kit is hooked up to WOT) at WOT...while you're in gear. There's no reason to spray otherwise. Yes...the n2o is continuous from gear to gear as long as it's activated and you're at WOT.
You'll notice your RPM's climb a little quicker than if you were to floor it when you're naturally aspirated. Just watch your RPM's.
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how long would u be able to do this, like from gears 2-4 or so? cuz if u go through all the gears its a good 10 seconds or 15. would that be safe on ur engine.
You can spray from 1st through 4th. 5th gear spray isn't really recommended. On a 50-75 shot....it will be take less than 15 seconds to go through all those gears. Take for example my 14.5 at the track. That's less than 15 seconds and I raced spraying in 1st. Plus...in between shifts...there was no n2o spraying into the motor because i quick shift...and therefore I'm not at WOT in between shifts. Most (if not all) Nitrous kit manufacturers do not recommend spraying in 5th and they do not recommend spraying for more than 15 consecutive seconds.
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im full of questions, sorry to ask them all just curious and considering buying it but not sure on many things. read up on all the posts in the forum and on the nx site. still doesn't answer all my questions or concerns.
If you're really not sure of how this works or what you're doing, then you might wanna hold off on getting nitrous. If you're not a good driver, I wouldn't recommend it either.....unless you get all the safety "fool" proof items there are out there to make sure you don't blow up and even still there's a chance of it happening.
I think your best bet is to find someone that HAS nitrous.....and maybe go for a ride w/them so you can observe and see how things are done (assuming this person is experienced a/nitrous) if you're still confused.
Last edited by SpdRcrChk : 03-10-2004 at 03:15 PM.
what "fool" proof items are there? and i see u said something about a msd ignition or something else that controls when the nitrous sprays and at a certain rpm, can u explain how that works more and how much those run. thanx
Well the MSD Window Switch (not ignition) controls what RPM's your kit sprays between. They offer modules that you plug in that determine the ranges that it sprays (i.e. 3000 thru 6570 would require thee 3000 module and the 6570). What this would do....is when the n2o is activated, it will only spray between these set RPMs no matter what. And basically....it means that you don't have to worry much if you hit fuel cut because the window switch will have shut down the nitrous before 7k.
The WOT microswitch is KIND OF a safety measure. This only allows you to spray when you're at WOT. But....most kits are set up this way anyway.
The purge is kind of a safety measure if you have a bottle warmer.....it allows you to release pressure if you've managed to build it too much. It also allows you to clear the lines before spraying if there is n2o that's been sitting there too long. Most bottle warmers, however, come with a relay that will automatically shut off the warmer before it gets the pressure up to high. I've encountered problems with these relays before, so an in cabin n2o gauge can help you keep a close eye on that.
An a/f gauge (if you actually pay attention to it) can tell u if you're running lean....upon which you might wanna not spray!!!
There are some nitrous kits, like the VENOM kit (but it's a dry and not a wet kit) that will automatically shut down the nitrous FOR you if it reads that your a/f mixture is too lean (it hooks up to ur 02).
If you're really worried about your shifting and don't have a window switch...a shift light can help you remember when to shift.
These are just a few of things that can help you monitor your kit. But they still aren't a guarantee that something can go wrong. Solenoids can stop working, or get stuck open, electical connections can go bad...etc etc etc. Don't just use 7thgencivic.com as a resource...try and read as much as you can from other good sources like the manufacturer websites themselves. I believe NX and VENOM host their manuals online!
so what are the basic mods to make it ready to install nitrous? and what websites or places are there to buy good prices on nitrous, zex, nos,...etc...
Originally posted by ShYbOy so what are the basic mods to make it ready to install nitrous? and what websites or places are there to buy good prices on nitrous, zex, nos,...etc...
wow, didnt think this thread would still be around... speedracerchick, holding it down rather nicely i would put an intake at least, that way you dont destroy your factory intake, but you can put it on a stock vehicle if you so desire, just be smart