DIY -- Installing SF Turbo kit
06-05-2003
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DIY -- Installing SF Turbo kit
Ok, due to the incredible support of all of you 7thgen people, i am going to start the DIY installation guide to installing the Stafford Fabrications Turbo Kit on a 2002 Civic.
This DIY will show you how to go from Stock to Fast (stock is on the right side of the picture)
I dont have all of the pictures right now, so i will be doing this in installments. i will also steal some pics from other people to show some stuff (sorry if i steal yours).
Oh yea, someone make this sticky.
Ok, first of all, you have to take off your stock intake air box. It comes in 3 major pieces. First undo all of the bolts that hold the intake on (# 13, 16, 15) , and remove the hose clamp that hold the box to the throttlebody (#14) . Then remove the intake air temp. sensor (#11) and pull off the stock intake assembly.
Next, you must remove your stock exhaust manifold. First... disconnect both O2 sensors (#8). than you have the Head-manifold bolts/studs, and then you have to disconnect the support brace and the exhaust (# 11, 9, 19, 17, 10) . You may have to disconnect the heat shield. (# 12)
Next you will remove the stock fuel line. It disconnects at the fuel rail and the firewall. It just clips together. (#19)
oK, now for installing the turbo and manifold!
Take the turbo and bolt it to the exhaust manifold (if its not already done). Bolt the downpipe to the wastegate housing, and then lower the turbo and manifold into the engine bay, and bolt it into place. it should look like this....
Here is the stock midpipe and the downpipe together
***note the PERFECT fit***
Ok people, ive run out of quality picture. I will get them up as soon as possible along with the rest of the DIY.
This DIY will show you how to go from Stock to Fast (stock is on the right side of the picture)
I dont have all of the pictures right now, so i will be doing this in installments. i will also steal some pics from other people to show some stuff (sorry if i steal yours).
Oh yea, someone make this sticky.
Ok, first of all, you have to take off your stock intake air box. It comes in 3 major pieces. First undo all of the bolts that hold the intake on (# 13, 16, 15) , and remove the hose clamp that hold the box to the throttlebody (#14) . Then remove the intake air temp. sensor (#11) and pull off the stock intake assembly.
Next, you must remove your stock exhaust manifold. First... disconnect both O2 sensors (#8). than you have the Head-manifold bolts/studs, and then you have to disconnect the support brace and the exhaust (# 11, 9, 19, 17, 10) . You may have to disconnect the heat shield. (# 12)
Next you will remove the stock fuel line. It disconnects at the fuel rail and the firewall. It just clips together. (#19)
oK, now for installing the turbo and manifold!
Take the turbo and bolt it to the exhaust manifold (if its not already done). Bolt the downpipe to the wastegate housing, and then lower the turbo and manifold into the engine bay, and bolt it into place. it should look like this....
Here is the stock midpipe and the downpipe together
***note the PERFECT fit***
Ok people, ive run out of quality picture. I will get them up as soon as possible along with the rest of the DIY.
Last edited by Catalyst; 07-11-2003 at 05:20 AM.
06-05-2003
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Rep Power: 288 Alright, it is time to mount the Intercooler!!!
Ok, first of all, take off your front bumper. There are some plastic push-in style connectors on the top and bottom of the bumper. Use a flat tip screwdriver to remove these. Then use a phillips screwdriver to remove the actual screws on the inside of the wheel well (you may want to turn your wheel all the way to the opposite side that you are working on). Once you have those removed, just pull on the end of the bumper and pull the rest of the clips loose (under the headlights). The bumper should be completely removed and put into a safe location.
Now, look underneath the car. The support for the radiator should have 2 holes in it. Slide the nutguides (looks like this ---> nut--------------nut) under the radiator (over the support), line up the holes on the guide, then link up the holes on the intercooler, and use the bolts included to mount the intercooler.
Now stand back and marvel at you inginuity. <--- did i spell that right?
Here is the mounting holes
and here is the nutrod
here is where you insert the nutrod ( i know how it sounds, but thats how it goes)
And this is what it should look like when you are done.
Ok, now we can start the wiring. (as everyone cheers in the background)
Ok, look at your fuel kit. Gaze in awe while you look at the colors of the wires. done gazing? good. The red wire is the 12v+ from the battery. The green is the signal wire from the ignition. And the Black is the ground. For the 12v+ (red) we recommend that you take it from the fusebox under the hood. as in the picture below. Also for the ground, you can use any ground on the body of the car. We recommend that you use ther ground that the battery terminal grounds to.
*** Take off the battery terminals before the next step ***
Unscrew the left screw that is painted red, insert the red wire (with proper connector), and tighten it back up.
For the ignition wire, you can run it from anything that turns on when your key is in the "ON" position. We recommend that you drill a hole through your firewall into the drivers compartment, take the steering column cover off, and find the ignition connectors.
Remove these screws to take the cover off...
and it should look like this....
Tap into the black/yellow wire for the ignition wire, and run it through the hole in the firewall to the fuel kit.
(Thanks for the pics Smokie)
now for the fuel lines.
Look at the fuel Kit in this next picture. The Fuel in is on top, and the fuel out it on the bottom. Use the hoses and hose clamps provided to hook up the fuel lines, and use the bracket provided to secure the fuel kit (you have to drill a small home and screw it into your firewall).
The vaccume line for the boost guage and the FMU and the BOV comes from this line. It connects to the sensor by the MAP sensor right next to the throttle body, as shown in this picture
And since you are already there, remove the MAP sensor, and install the MAP sensor isolation valve and use the proper hardware included to install the sensor back into place
Ok, first of all, take off your front bumper. There are some plastic push-in style connectors on the top and bottom of the bumper. Use a flat tip screwdriver to remove these. Then use a phillips screwdriver to remove the actual screws on the inside of the wheel well (you may want to turn your wheel all the way to the opposite side that you are working on). Once you have those removed, just pull on the end of the bumper and pull the rest of the clips loose (under the headlights). The bumper should be completely removed and put into a safe location.
Now, look underneath the car. The support for the radiator should have 2 holes in it. Slide the nutguides (looks like this ---> nut--------------nut) under the radiator (over the support), line up the holes on the guide, then link up the holes on the intercooler, and use the bolts included to mount the intercooler.
Now stand back and marvel at you inginuity. <--- did i spell that right?
Here is the mounting holes
and here is the nutrod
here is where you insert the nutrod ( i know how it sounds, but thats how it goes)
And this is what it should look like when you are done.
Ok, now we can start the wiring. (as everyone cheers in the background)
Ok, look at your fuel kit. Gaze in awe while you look at the colors of the wires. done gazing? good. The red wire is the 12v+ from the battery. The green is the signal wire from the ignition. And the Black is the ground. For the 12v+ (red) we recommend that you take it from the fusebox under the hood. as in the picture below. Also for the ground, you can use any ground on the body of the car. We recommend that you use ther ground that the battery terminal grounds to.
*** Take off the battery terminals before the next step ***
Unscrew the left screw that is painted red, insert the red wire (with proper connector), and tighten it back up.
For the ignition wire, you can run it from anything that turns on when your key is in the "ON" position. We recommend that you drill a hole through your firewall into the drivers compartment, take the steering column cover off, and find the ignition connectors.
Remove these screws to take the cover off...
and it should look like this....
Tap into the black/yellow wire for the ignition wire, and run it through the hole in the firewall to the fuel kit.
(Thanks for the pics Smokie)
now for the fuel lines.
Look at the fuel Kit in this next picture. The Fuel in is on top, and the fuel out it on the bottom. Use the hoses and hose clamps provided to hook up the fuel lines, and use the bracket provided to secure the fuel kit (you have to drill a small home and screw it into your firewall).
The vaccume line for the boost guage and the FMU and the BOV comes from this line. It connects to the sensor by the MAP sensor right next to the throttle body, as shown in this picture
And since you are already there, remove the MAP sensor, and install the MAP sensor isolation valve and use the proper hardware included to install the sensor back into place
Last edited by Catalyst; 07-11-2003 at 05:21 AM.
06-06-2003
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Rep Power: 288 these arent even the instructions given with the kit. im just doing this to show you how easy this kit is to install.
Avg. install time = 3-4 hours
^ at this point, you guys are over half way done
all thats left is the vaccume line, oil lines, boost guages, and intercooler piping. And out intercooler piping is only 5 pieces.
Avg. install time = 3-4 hours
^ at this point, you guys are over half way done
all thats left is the vaccume line, oil lines, boost guages, and intercooler piping. And out intercooler piping is only 5 pieces.
06-06-2003
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Rep Power: 288 Ok, now for the next installment of our little project.....
Oil lines
Ok, first of all, you have to remove your oil pan. All you have to do to do this is....
drain all of your oil, remove all of the bolts/nuts from around your oil pan, and use a flathead screwdriver and gently pry the pan away from the block.
now that your pan is out of the car, drill the hole with the drill bit that matches the size of the oil drain line. Now, take it to a welder (of it you can weld) and have the drain line welded into place. Re-install your oil pan, and use the aeroquip line to hook the drain line from the turbo to the drain line on the pan.
Here is the mark where you have to drill
here is the hold drilled
and here is the oil pan with the drain line installed
Now for the oil supply line, look at the back of your engine (from underneath) and you should see a little sensor above your oil filter. This is your oil pressure sensor. Remove this and replace it with the T fitting supplied, and screw the sensor into the fitting. On the other end of the fitting, screw your steel braided line (included) and run the line along side the engine, over your transmission, and into the fitting on the top of the turbo.
oil feed line
now all your oil lines are hooked up. Before you test drive your car (after your done with everything else), double check these fitting to make sure they are tight.
Oil lines
Ok, first of all, you have to remove your oil pan. All you have to do to do this is....
drain all of your oil, remove all of the bolts/nuts from around your oil pan, and use a flathead screwdriver and gently pry the pan away from the block.
now that your pan is out of the car, drill the hole with the drill bit that matches the size of the oil drain line. Now, take it to a welder (of it you can weld) and have the drain line welded into place. Re-install your oil pan, and use the aeroquip line to hook the drain line from the turbo to the drain line on the pan.
Here is the mark where you have to drill
here is the hold drilled
and here is the oil pan with the drain line installed
Now for the oil supply line, look at the back of your engine (from underneath) and you should see a little sensor above your oil filter. This is your oil pressure sensor. Remove this and replace it with the T fitting supplied, and screw the sensor into the fitting. On the other end of the fitting, screw your steel braided line (included) and run the line along side the engine, over your transmission, and into the fitting on the top of the turbo.
oil feed line
now all your oil lines are hooked up. Before you test drive your car (after your done with everything else), double check these fitting to make sure they are tight.
Last edited by Catalyst; 07-11-2003 at 05:22 AM.
06-06-2003
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Rep Power: 288 Alright. Since i am bored, i guess we will install the intercooler piping.
First of all, you will want to install the pipes that hook to the intercooler.
Since your bumper is off, look at the picture below and look where the intercooler piping goes from the engine bay to the outside of the car. The stock hole is too small, so you have to use something to bend a small amount of the body pinch out of the way. Just enough to fit the piping in there (not too much).
Here is where you have to bend
Before
After
first pipes installed
Now put the pipes into place, and use the hose clamps and couplers on the intercooler side to hold them.
Now you must install the pipe that goes from the turbo, to the LOWER intercooler pipe. (one i dont have a picture of). When you have that connected (will only go in 1 way), you will move on to the 90 degree bent pipe that hooks up to the UPPER intercooler pipe. Next you will install the bonnett onto the throttlebody. Then take the other 90 degree bent pipe and run it to the bonnett. (the 90 degree bends will be marked)
Here is the bonnett
Now all thats left is installing the air filter pipe. That is another unique pipe. it will also be marked. But it goes to the INTAKE part of the compressor housing on the turbo.
here is a pic of the turbo, you can see the intake part on the side of it.
When you are done, it should look exactly like my signature.
First of all, you will want to install the pipes that hook to the intercooler.
Since your bumper is off, look at the picture below and look where the intercooler piping goes from the engine bay to the outside of the car. The stock hole is too small, so you have to use something to bend a small amount of the body pinch out of the way. Just enough to fit the piping in there (not too much).
Here is where you have to bend
Before
After
first pipes installed
Now put the pipes into place, and use the hose clamps and couplers on the intercooler side to hold them.
Now you must install the pipe that goes from the turbo, to the LOWER intercooler pipe. (one i dont have a picture of). When you have that connected (will only go in 1 way), you will move on to the 90 degree bent pipe that hooks up to the UPPER intercooler pipe. Next you will install the bonnett onto the throttlebody. Then take the other 90 degree bent pipe and run it to the bonnett. (the 90 degree bends will be marked)
Here is the bonnett
Now all thats left is installing the air filter pipe. That is another unique pipe. it will also be marked. But it goes to the INTAKE part of the compressor housing on the turbo.
here is a pic of the turbo, you can see the intake part on the side of it.
When you are done, it should look exactly like my signature.
Last edited by Catalyst; 07-11-2003 at 05:23 AM.
06-08-2003
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Rep Power: 288 unfortunately, there is no other way to make sure the oil pan doesnt leak. We can dril and tap aluminum pans because they are usually thicker, but with the thin steel pans, there is really no other way to make sure it doesnt leak.
But SFpower is trying to devise a way, so maybe there will be a no welding method soon.
But SFpower is trying to devise a way, so maybe there will be a no welding method soon.
thats a pretty detailed diy right there, i wonder how detailed the actual instructions are
06-09-2003
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Rep Power: 288 well, i will be writing the actual instructions also, so they will be more in depth than this. I did this because i was bored. I am doing the instructions because i have to. lol
06-11-2003
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Rep Power: 0 im lost, i use a oil drain plug that i purchase at walmart. i wonder if it can solve the problem instead of drilling a hole. it is called sd2 from fram the company who makes it and its an adapter that replaces your bolt. there is a cap to cover as well. (sort of like a tire pressure thingy). we can take the cap of screw a line to that oil adapter and to whatever. just trying to help don't flame!!!! i can be wrong
http://www.fram.com/index.html go under products and scroll down.
http://www.fram.com/index.html go under products and scroll down.
06-11-2003
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Rep Power: 288 No, you cannot use those products. The oil drain line must be under the turbo, yet above the oil line in the hood. sorry guys, but there has to be some mods to go fast.
06-13-2003
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Rep Power: 288 thanks a lot. I have 53 more pictures, so the real instructions are gonna be in depth. I may post the entire regular instructions as a DIY, but i dont know how Derek would like that. lol
I think i am going to limit myself to about 15 pictures for the DIY. I have some more chosen to update with, so i will post them later tonight.
I think i am going to limit myself to about 15 pictures for the DIY. I have some more chosen to update with, so i will post them later tonight.
06-14-2003
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Rep Power: 288 alright people, here is the vaccume line that you have to tap into to install the BOV, fuel kit, and the Boost guage.
06-15-2003
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Rep Power: 288 i just updated this, so read it over again from the beginning. I added a lot of pictures so you can see how easy it is.
06-15-2003
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Rep Power: 288 you can get it from the group buy section of this website, and it is $2900. It is the Stafford Fabrications Turbo Kit.
06-17-2003
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Originally posted by Derek-CEO
I thought there was no welding going to be required for this. Mike should have an option to buy the pan pre-welded and then you send him your old one.
D
I thought there was no welding going to be required for this. Mike should have an option to buy the pan pre-welded and then you send him your old one.
D
Isn't the EX pan more difficult to weld into... and find a spot to weld. It has more baffles in it, and it's aluminum I think. I don't know **** about welding really, but I thought you can't just regularly weld into aluminum.
