Erf_Em2

Hello and what's good 7th gen community?

I have been working on this custom turbo kit collecting parts and preparing the car for the past 2.5 years. To be honest, doing the work myself, and learning all this from a Haynes Manual and the community here has been a hell of an experience. Now that it is near completion, and things are almost one, I have decided to share the information with interested EM2 Owners who also would like to go the turbo-route against the K-swap or buying a new car.

As most of us know, the d17a2 is an infamous engine that does not respond to bolt-on modifications such as : a 4-1 header, cold air intake/short ram intake, and or a catback exhaust system. With a good turbo setup designed for lower RPM spool-up, the EM2 can be a fun, light, and good looking car to daily.

To those on a low budget and looking to increase performance from their EM2, just getting started and would like to see a turbo build, and/or would just like something cool to follow, welcome to my build.



Turbo: Turbonetics T3 .63 AR Super 60 Trim 3in inlet, 4 bolt discharge, ceramic ball bearing, water cooled 16mm

ECU: Hondata KPro

Intake: D16y8 Manifold

Turbo Manifold: SPA Turbo Cast Iron Manifold 38mm WG top- mount

Downpipe: CXRacing Driverside 4 Bolt downpipe 2.5"

Dumptube: 40mm Ebay Dumptube SS

Wastegate: Used Turbonetics F38 from eBay with 5psi spring



BOV: Used Greddy Type FV BOV from eBay, genuine

Intercooler: Ebay (black piping) I like stealth.

Muffler: Vibrant Street Performance Muffler Black

Resonators: Two Vibrant UltraQuiet Resonators 2.5"


Fuel: Stock fuel pump, 310cc RSX injectors



Clutch: Action Clutch Stage 1 Organic

Head: AEM cam gear, ARP head studs, new headgasket, timing belt, tensioner, water pump, valve cover gasket,

Suspension: ISC Suspension Coilovers, SPC front camber bolts, SPC rear camber arms -2.5 camber all around, maxed out rears, 1/2in from maxed out front

Brakes: EBC USR Slotted Rotors, EBC GreenStuff 2000 Brake Pads

Gauges: AEM UEGO A/F, Autometer Mechanical Boost Gauge, Autometer Digital

Oil Pressure Gauge, Autometer Digital Oil Temperature Gauge, Autometer

Digital Water Temp Gauge

Oil system: Mishimoto Oil Catch Can

Cooling system: Koyo High Performance Radiator, GodSpeed slim racing fans 10"x2

Battery: Relocated to trunk homemade kit

Tires: Nexen 195/45/16

Wheels: XXR 536 16x8 +20



The A/F gauge and the boost are not wired to power. My oil pressure, oil temp, and water temp gauges are all installed and working.

Oil pan is tapped and prepared for the 10AN return.
I have all the parts to my turbo kit.


Pretty much the only thing left to do is get the turbo kit installed, tow it to a tuner, and get it tuned. Before I do that, I would like to take a couple of months to do final research and get everything finalized. I'll get it installed and tuned in the summer.

Some questions I have.

1) Stock fuel pump and 310cc injectors, will they work well? Or should I upgrade the fuel pump?

2) Since I have emissions, can I tune open downpipe with the wideband O2 installed on the downpipe (AEM), then drive to the exhaust shop to get the rest fabbed (cat conv. resontators, mufflers)? Or will this decrease horsepower after the tune?



I will check this weekly to reply to posts, questions, and provide what knowledge I have to others stuck on a build.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

1) Stock pump will work just fine running 310cc injectors. I did it for a while with no fuel related issues.

2) depends on your state's emissions laws. If it's like NV, as long as you're not throwing a CEL, you should be fine. I'd check with local tuning shops to see what constitutes an emissions testing failure.

Furthermore, I'd just like to add that a crower cam will let your boost build breathe a whole lot easier. There was a monster D17A1 with an a2 head build, and he hit a plateau until he dropped in a cam. I think he said with the stock cam, he maxed out at 289whp, ultimately getting almost 500whp with a stage 3. Now, that's a crazy built engine, but a $300 part (stage 1 is a drop in, no extras needed) that'll help net more power.

Erf_Em2

I noticed you did not run into any fuel-related issues. If there were issues with yours, what were they?


As far as emissions go, here is how Nashville does their testing: gas cap, mirror under car cat check, check for engine light being on.

I am pretty sure I can get a high flow cat, go 2.5" turboback exhaust, AND set check readiness on Kpro to make sure the car runs with no engine light, and pass emissions that way.

Honestly, my goals with this car are around 150-170bhp, so I do not want to do any head work or bottom end work.. I want to finish the turbo build and run low boost just as a fun little daily.


I think what I will end up doing is installing the downpipe, then getting a tow to the muffler shop, after they fab the exhaust I'll have to re-tow AGAIN to the tuner.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Crap tune from a local shop where I was stationed (WA state). They messed up my turbo wastegate and it was stuck at 2.5psi, but I still made 150whp, and it was quite fun.

I should clarify, I had no fuel delivery issues. The turbo setup caused my head gasket failure, so I took it off and replaced my HG

If you want a good 49-state legal high flow cat, look into the random technology one for the EM2. The kit I had was fabbed up to mate with the stock downpipe, so I was able to keep it when I was boosted. It's a 2.5" flared inlet, 2.25" piping, no CEL (even to this day). I had that coupled with an A'PEXi WS-II exhaust (60mm/2.36" piping) and all that worked together nicely.

Erf_Em2

That's horrible sorry to hear that bad experience with your previous tuner.
I found a tuning shop called Suja 1 Motoring here in Nashville that specializes in Honda tuning and is EFI certified. I plan on visiting their shop, consulting with them about my build, and getting a estimate and everything two months before I even install the turbo kit and tow the vehicle to their shop.

Right now I plan on changing the lower ball joints and getting her aligned next weekend. I also plan to convert my PCV system to AN lines as well. Thanks to Treadstone Performance for the high quality lines.


The fellas over at Thunderbolt make some good high-flow cats for DIRT CHEAP (based on reviews on ford/chevy forums). I spent 60 bucks and said what the hell and I ordered the 2.5" high-flow cat with an O2 bung from performancecurve.com

I had some thoughts on routing the wastegate dumptube to the downpipe, but I am not sure what the sound difference will be or how much more expensive it will be by the muffler shop. I dont want to annoy other drivers by the wastegate dump tube. Not sure how loud it will be if I dump to atmosphere.

After you boosted your car, was it quieter than a catback exhaust due to a turbo restricting flow? did you run open dumptube?

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Yeah, that shop, I got referred to by a dude saying that tuner was the best in WA state. Later come to find out that the same tuner blew a guy's engine while tuning with an AEM EMS.

As far as my setup went, I stuck with my exhaust. The sound wasn't noticeably different, with the exception of turbo spool and BOV sound. Other than that, it sounded about the same. I absolutely abhor the sound of super loud exhausts, so that's why I didn't run open dump from the turbo outlet. My setup was also an internal wastegate (T3 super 60), so I didn't have to worry about extra plumbing with regards to that.

You gonna run an oil catch can in your PCV line or are you just gonna convert it to AN/stainless braided lines?

edit: to be completely honest, I wasn't very well educated on turbo setups. I had a basic knowledge of what needed to be done, but not enough knowledge to be able to know what all that went into boosting a car. I bought a (at the time) used kit that was popular on these forums (search SF or Stafford Fabrications turbo and you'll find loads of threads) for a decent price. After I bought it, the dude kept changing the terms of the deal (paypal'd him $2k, then after the fact, insisted that I agreed to send him my intake and header after installation, amongst other various dollar amounts I "said" I'd give him). Looking back, it was a (pardon my language) shitty setup, mostly because of my naivety and not getting other components to accommodate a stock internal boost build. Not to mention that the shop I went to didn't give a **** about a safe turbo setup that they finished the install on, only that they were getting money from me since I had to buy a different piggyback unit than what I supplied (supplied a GReddy emanage. They convinced me that a VAFC-II would be the only thing they had that would work, and the emanage wouldn't work), and a bunch of other things that, in hindsight, made me want to punch each one of them in the genitals. lol

Erf_Em2

I forgot to mention I'm currently running a Mishimoto oil catch can. It's pretty clean looking in the engine bay. Considering I paid $90 bucks for it, I might as well get rid of the shitty rubber lines and put black AN lines on it.

On the turbo, whats that threaded port located on the side of compressor housing?

Erf_Em2

Need a used short block. Engine threw a rod on me yesterday. Low oil. Knew I shoulda have fixed that leak. Looking to get her up and running by next month again. DAMN! Just when I had bought some cool aluminum shifter bushings to test them out. Haha

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

I have one laying around.. but all the internals are all rusted to **** (and very likely seized in place) and it'd cost hella to ship. lol

How it always happens though. You get some shiny new stuff, and something big goes wrong

piano55man

check out your local JDM importer.... mine in houston has the d17 for $450!

Erf_Em2

Here in the good ole south, you can be surprised what you can find for DIRT cheap. Got a deal waiting $50 block as-is off car-part. Gonna see it in person soon.

Found an 03 sblock. Not sure if its a d17a1 block or d17a2.

Anyone know I can use the short block of an 03 civic? I know VTEC came on a2 heads but blocks? ehhh

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

actually might do you good, since -a1 blocks run slightly lower compression

compatibility with the stock wiring harness is beyond my scope of knowledge, however

Erf_Em2

Gonna run a visual tomorrow. Take some photos. Compare with a2 block photos. My main purpose is to re-install the short-block and resume with low-boost.

Since block work entails $1000+ for balancing and machine work, upgraded rods and bearings are out the picture.

Maybe a stage 1 cam? Maybe better valves (not even considering changing redline limit).

Stage 1 cam 50% likely as of now. Might as well. Haha main reason is cause I came upon some cash. We'll see!

piano55man

'01 thru '05 should bolt right up. The only main difference, from what i have read, is the '04 and '05 have a different 02 sensor...but sounds like you already have that covered with your aftermarket sensor.

piano55man

If you get that lower end, no matter what condition, i personally would put in new cam and crank seals along with a water pump kit. Much easier to do it while the engine is out of the car...

piano55man

BTW when you threw the rod did the piston by chance hit the valves? Hopefully you didn't bend any valves.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Stage 1 cam doesn't require valves. You can safely run boost with stock valves. Thing is quite nice, I might add. I'm running one in my -a2 right now.

That really has to do with ECU. You could easily swap an 01-03 downstream sensor in place since they're all threaded the same. The block does have some differences, however. As I mentioned earlier, it has a lower CR. The D17A1 runs a 9.5:1 compression ratio and the -A2 has a 9.9:1. Lower compression is safer for boost. The oil pan is also different. -A1 has a steel oil pan, slightly lower capacity (because no VTEC) and it mates to the block via a gasket. The -A2 oil pan is aluminum, and mates to the block via an RTV seal.

piano55man

Erf_Em2

I don't know. I am taking the head off to inspect it. I found a couple of good long-block deals, so I might end up going that route if the head is damaged.

The water pump is only 1 year old. But I do plan on changing the rear main seal. As far as the other two you mentioned, I know rockauto has em for dirt cheap.

If only I had not ignored the darn oil leak. I had re-installed the pan with RTV but the return bung blocked a bolt hole so I had sealed the hole with RTV sealant but it didn't work well. I think that is where the leak came from and eventually led to me having a thrown rod. Ran on low oil for two weeks. Not sure if the head is even in good condition.

But like I said once I get the head off, and inspect it I'll make a decision on getting a new long-block or going with a short block.

By the way is re-using a headgasket a good idea, considering it is only 1 years old?

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

I wouldn't reuse a head gasket.

piano55man

I agree with Rice. I would never really reuse any gaskets let alone a head gasket...unless your on the side of the road or at a track for a quick fix to getcha home.

Erf_Em2

Got it, thanks guys. Going with the long-block.

Erf_Em2

Ordered the engine, should be here in a week. Meanwhile, I dont plan on installing it until a few weeks later because school.
New crank seals, cam seal, timing belt kit, water pump, headgasket going in. Transferring the good ole ARP head studs over.

piano55man

Erf_Em2

The engine came in. It is a JDM D17A. According to Wikipedia, the specs of the motor are as below. A nice horsepower gain.

Found in:
2001–2005 Honda Civic (Japan, Canada)
Displacement : 1,668 cc (101.8 cu in)
Bore and Stroke: 75 × 94.4 mm (3.0 × 3.72 in)
Compression : 10.5:1
Power : (lean burn) 120 hp (85.8 kW, 120 ps) at 4,900 rpm; 140 hp (96.9 kW, 140 PS) at 6,750 rpm
Torque : 160 N·m (118 lb·ft) at 4,800 rpm
Rev-limiter : 7,200 rpm
Valvetrain : SOHC (4 valves per cylinder)
Fuel Control : OBD-2 MPFI
Vtec

Going to dis-assemble the engine accessories next month, see what sensors match and don't, then swap over the old shot engine for this new one.

Erf_Em2

*Update*

New engine in. Runs fine. New shifter bushings solid.
just needs a thermostat.
FIY: Moved over my a2 vtec solenoid and oil pressure switch over to the d17a. Used the old AC compressor, (Japanese one has single wire.) Kept old power steering and alternator.
I have a steel oil pan now. It doesn't have the two stiffner brackets. I got the bungs brass welded on there. MIG welding was going to blow a hole in the steel according to my welder.
She works just fine.

Does anyone recommend running 93 octane? The compression rationis 10.5:1

Erf_Em2

Updated photos.


-FYI used VHT engine enamel to paint the engine. Sand 220grit, degrease with Gunk/wire brush/water, Prime, Paint, Clear.

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

Looking good so far

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Hot damn that's sexy. And yes, run 91 octane at a minimum.

edit: just realized as I skimmed this thread that you asked about a threaded port on the compressor side of the snail. Can you take a pic? It's probably a port for the wastegate,

Erf_Em2

https://www.google.com/search?q=turb...fvzICYWhcP8DM:[/QUOTE]
It's that threaded port shown in the image I just linked to on google.

I have to drain the old fuel and put in some 93. It has like 10 gallons left in the tank!

note to anyone doing a y8 swap for their intake. For the hoses going to the TB,
Never buy Advance Auto Parts coolant hose. They are weak and can't stand the heat! Get some aftermarket high performance coolant hose.


Things left to do:
Replace two coolant lines
New thermostat
Burp
Fuel swap
Valve lash
Freon
Alignment

I can't wait to see how she pulls. Btw I stayed with the OEM cam. I can pop in a new cam in one days work. Ive become pretty good at disassembling the engine head even with it in the car. Money was short.