civcspool

iTrader: (1)

My head gasket is out and I bought ARP headstuds. I need help in torquing my stud ? How many pound should I go ? I have read alot of threads saying 80,70,60,65 what is the best torque specs for boosted stock internals for d17A1? and what is the torquing sequence thanx alot

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

80 ftlbs for boost.

Go buy a Hayne's manual, it has the torque sequence in it. You should not be attempting a head gasket replacement without some sort of documentation to help you along. Also, it's a stepped torque sequence, if you run them to 80 at the first go you will warp the head.

wikkaco0

Head Bolts

Tighten the cylinder head bolts sequentially in 3 steps.
1st step torque: 20 Nm (2.0 kgf/m, 14 lbf/ft)
2nd step torque: 49 Nm (5.0 kgf/m, 36 lbf/ft)
3rd step torque: 67 Nm (6.8 kgf/m, 49 lbf/ft)



Rocker Arm Assembly and Cam Holder

Tighten each bolt 2 turns at a time, in the sequence shown below to ensure that the rockers do not bind on the valves.
Specified torque:

8 mm bolts: 20 Nm (2.0 kgf/m, 14 lbf/ft)
Apply engine oil to the bolt threads.
6 mm bolts: 12 Nm (1.2 kgf/m, 8.7 lbf/ft)
Apply engine oil to the bolt threads.
6 mm bolts: (11), (12), (13), (14)

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Damn it wik. I didn't want to post that! Because then his next thread would be titled "I replaced my head gasket, something broke, my car doesn't run, and I don't know why, help!"

civcspool

iTrader: (1)

thanx but thats only upto 67 nm so do i have to do 4 step torque to reach 80?

civicsrcool

i would probably do 5 or 6 steps.

49, 65, then 80. just seems more logical to do it that way rather than from 49 directly to 80. probably warp the head.

whatever you think is easier on the head... i dont think going from 49 to 80 is a good idea though.

tfnaaf

iTrader: (2)

follow This for a PDF file on how to do the head gasket if you need info

wikkaco0

If you can take it apart without breaking something, you'll probably be able to put it back together again.

I went in 10 lbs/ft steps over the stock 49 lbs/ft. Do that until you reach your desired torque. The key here is to not warp the head as it has to seat perfectly flat to the deck surface. Use your judgement as you're assembling it.

civcspool

iTrader: (1)

yes all done now. but problems keep coming... =( there's no heat coming out but i have ac.. i bleed the whole system for 30 mins any suggestions?

civicsrcool

bleed it more. lol

Rufus

iTrader: (17)

Ya these cars are retarded with air bubbles

tuningmycivic

iTrader: (11)

agreed...i was bleeding mine for two days after i changed my head gasket. might need to do it again though depending on how things work out when i pull the turbo and mani off next week...she seems to be burning a bit of oil at idle (white smoke and smells like oil). i want to blame the turbo seals first since the snail was used and it's been on my ride almost a year now, but we'll see.

andyman97

iTrader: (14)

Damn, you guys must be doing something wrong then. I do mine for about 15-20 minutes and I'm good to go.

civcspool

iTrader: (1)

yes finally!! heater came on i took the hose going to the heater block near the fire wall and started the car for 10 sec and put it back on.

one more question umm my turbo is cooled by oil and coolant sometimes i smell coolant burning on idle boosting or running is that natural?

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

You've got a leak somewhere. Check all your hoses. My craptastic OBX silicone hoses would leak like crazy so I just switched beack to OEM black rubber.

civcspool

iTrader: (1)

could that be a possible leak in the head gasket again? but i just changed it? and resurfaced the head

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

I doubt it, just check all your coolant lines and ensure you've got the clamps screwed down tight.