Honda Civic DIYs and Civic Tech ChatHonda Civic DIYs and Civic Tech Chat - for the true gearheads! Bring your wrench, it's time for some Honda Civic DIY projects! Questions about problems with your car do NOT go here.
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Tools:
- impact gun
- air compressor
- large wrench
- 17mm socket
- jack
- jack stand
Jack up one side of the car so that the wheels are off the ground. Make sure that you're on level ground and that you have the e-brake on. Unbolt the wheel bolts and take off the wheel. Support the drum brake with a jack stand. Unbolt the bolt that's closest to the drum brake. On the passenger side of the car, the bolt is the closest to the front of the car. In the picture you can see which bolt to unbolt since everything is set up as if it was still on the car. Then unbolt the remaining bolts. This impact wrench comes in handy when removing all of these bolts. I was unable to unbolt them without it; although maybe if you've got a rather long wrench and you're a big guy (or girl) then you can handle it.
Before proceeding clean off the bolts that you removed and the surrounding area as you don't want any grime to get in the threads and throw off a torque reading.
Now, screw both ends of the camber kit in as far as they will go and bolt it on to the car's frame with the two bolts. Please note the holes. One is round and the other is oval. For the passenger side of the car the oval hole should be towards the fron of the car. Both sides are symmetrical. First bolt down the side with the round hole and then bolt down the side with the oval hole. Then hold the end of the camber kit in one hand and turn the center part with the other so that you can bolt it down to the pivot point that's near the drum brake. Use the large wrench to hold the bolt down and use the impact gun to force the nut onto the bolt. Then tighten it down using a torque wrench with a 17mm socket. Torque all of the 17mm bolts down to 45 foot pounds. Then simply tighten down the two nuts on the camber kit to lock in the setting you're at. I tightened them with a wrench and I estimate their torque setting to be around 35 foot pounds.
I gave everything a good shot of WD-40 to prevent rust. I also cleaned the mating surfaces of the wheel and the hub and the threads of the wheel studs so that the wheel would mount onto the hub nice and flush.
Oh yeah, thank you Havok2k1 for lending me the impact gun! I must buy one! They're so cool!!! [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/IMG]
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cool,i done the rear ysterday and i had hard time to take out the bolt next to the drum,i was tryin to loosen the lock nut instead the bolt,my dumb A** didnt need a impact wrench cus i spray some chemical on to loosen the bolts,drove to a flat surface area to made my own alignment( i had mentioned my improviced method as to how),i am doin the front today.btw,what is the torque applied to the 2 bolts to the frame and the one to the spindle?
Nice DIY but I really don't think it is need to install the kits. If anyone needs this, take it to someone else and let them do it. Why the jack under the drum. I recall the drum rising upward about an inch when I removed the stock piece?
1955: The torque setting are in the DIY. They're estimates though. Read it again... Mbow: I guess I didn't need the jack stand? Better safe than sorry though. I didn't want it to fall down or get out of place. I didn't know what was going to happen. I'm still not sure that it wouldn't have moved since I kept that jack stand under there the whole time. Whatever.
It's not like the front where you have to worry about the axle dislodging from the cv joint or the tranny. That is what makes the rear some what of a pain in the arse when you put lowering springs on. When you remove the spring/strut assembly the hub springs upward a few inches. Thus, when you go to put the bottom bolt back in, you have to either have someone stand on the hub or use a crow bar and your own weight to force it back down so you can get the bolt through.
You going to lower your car or what? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]
that was very informative grey but i torqued down those 17mm bolts to 70 ft lbs on one side and it was fine untill i torqued the other side then the nut /bolt striped,then i checked the spec in my service manual and found out they should be torque to 45ft lbs,what even worse is i cant get the striped but off the bolt right now,,i just put another M12X1.25 nut over the old one untill i find a wheel grinder to free the nut.i was lazy to check with my manual first and it backfire on me,,my poor mistake.
Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: Mbow
You going to lower your car or what? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG][hr]
I knew it. The day finally came. You see, when you just lower your car people say, "You need wheels!" and/or "You need a camber kit!". I got my wheels first, then the camber kit. I don't want to hear that I need to lower the car! [IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG] Anyway, the answer is yes! Either a full coilover or bags. The roads suck here, so bags are my number one choice right now. That is unless I can devise a system that has the advantages of a stiff coilover setup and being able to raise the car to go over speed bumps and what not. Now that would rock!
1955: Aw shoot! I'm sorry man. That's the torque I used and I thought that it was a little too much as well. I know that the bolts that you have to take out in the back when you install a tie bar have a torque setting of 45 foot pounds and they look similiar to these 17mm ones. I think I'll untighten mine and re-torque them to the proper torque setting today. They're stressed now, so a large bump could actually make the bolt snap. I think I might need to get new ones now that I think about it. They probably elongated from the excessive torque that I applied. Where does it say their torque specification? In the service manual? All three bolts have that torque specification?
yes the 3 17mm bolts need to be torque to 45lb,the bolt u mentioned isnt likely to be snap anytime cus its restin on the wheel and spring,they dont have any stress points at alli will retorque my other side also...just one question.whey did u installed a camber kit B4 u lower the car,is it something u planned ahead in advance?
correction,,,43 ft lbs instead of 45...positively sure
Yeah, I planned it that way. I'm still undecided on what I will use to lower the car with, so I can put the camber kit in beforehand anyway. Plus I set my camber slightly negative in the rear so that I can corner better. It works too! There's a difference now. The rear end is more stable.
Originally posted by Mbow It's not like the front where you have to worry about the axle dislodging from the cv joint or the tranny. That is what makes the rear some what of a pain in the arse when you put lowering springs on. When you remove the spring/strut assembly the hub springs upward a few inches. Thus, when you go to put the bottom bolt back in, you have to either have someone stand on the hub or use a crow bar and your own weight to force it back down so you can get the bolt through.
You going to lower your car or what? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]
BIG PAIN IN THE ARSE! I used the stock jack and placed it under the shock and raised it untill it lined up.....
cool,i done the rear ysterday and i had hard time to take out the bolt next to the drum,i was tryin to loosen the lock nut instead the bolt,my dumb A** didnt need a impact wrench cus i spray some chemical on to loosen the bolts,drove to a flat surface area to made my own alignment( i had mentioned my improviced method as to how),i am doin the front today.btw,what is the torque applied to the 2 bolts to the frame and the one to the spindle? 
[IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG] Anyway, the answer is yes! Either a full coilover or bags. The roads suck here, so bags are my number one choice right now. That is unless I can devise a system that has the advantages of a stiff coilover setup and being able to raise the car to go over speed bumps and what not. Now that would rock!
