98 DX, disappearing noise, engine light on, stalls at low RPM.

Ironliftr3 · 10-17-2009

I have a 98 Civic DX with 145,000 miles on it. Been running fine, no problems at all. Last Friday, I decided to do some 'preventive maintenance', and replaced following-

Distributor cap (O'reilly recommended brand for my car)
Rotor (O'reilly recommended brand for my car)
Spark plug wires (NGK)
Spark plugs (NGK)
Air filter
(all done myself)

Oil & filter change
(Done by garage)

Everything ran great for five days. On Thursday, I noticed a 'rotational grinding' sound coming from the engine compartment. Almost sounded like a water pump or alternator bearings going bad. (water pump was replaced with timing belt at 100K). Noise very noticeable at initial startup, and turn off. Car ran fine otherwise.

Was going to bring it in to the shop the next day, but as suddenly as it started, the noise is gone on Friday morning.

Five minutes after starting it post-noise, the car stalls at low RPM. Engine light comes on. Car starts right back up, no hesitation at all, but seems to have a low idle, and will stall if I take off the gas consistently. Car seems to run FINE otherwise. No noises, no rough idle, no other symptoms, but stalls consistently at low RPM.

While I am mechanically inclined, I won't claim to be an 'expert' at car repair/maintenance. My first inclination is that I did something wrong while replacing the distributor, etc, although I can't imagine what especially since it ran great for five days. I could be completely coincidental, but it seems odd that it happened so suddenly after maintenance.

I'm going to pull off the distributor/rotor and check connections, etc, today.

Any ideas?

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gearbox · 10-17-2009

what does the engine light say? its prolly something with the distributor cap. either you forgot to screw it in or its loose.

Ironliftr3 · 10-17-2009

Well, I pulled off the distributor cap, and checked the spark plug wire connections. It doesn't seem to stall as often, but the idle still seems very low, and like it's 'trying' to stall.

I also notice that it stalls if I rev the engine (in neutral). When it returns to idle, it's almost like it drops too low and stalls out.

When I start it, without reving, it's fine.

Cleft_Asunder · 10-17-2009

Are the wires in the proper sequence on the distrubutor cap? You said a light came on. What is the code?

Cap should be:

1: Left
2: Bottom
3: Top
4: Right

When looking at the engine from the front, sparks plugs are numbered 4,3,2,1.

gearbox · 10-17-2009

i think its time to clean out the whole intake system, including throttle body and all the sensors around it like idle valve. thats the reason its trying to stall, cant maintain idle when you let go of the gas. get some carb spray and clean all those lil things you can unbolt.

Cleft_Asunder · 10-18-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearbox

i think its time to clean out the whole intake system, including throttle body and all the sensors around it like idle valve. thats the reason its trying to stall, cant maintain idle when you let go of the gas. get some carb spray and clean all those lil things you can unbolt.

If you decide to do this, don't touch your idle screw. It was pre-set at the factory. Check your idle RPM (engine at normal operating temp) with a meter before you touch anything. If it's out of spec, clean throttle body and particularly the IAC valve using break or carb cleaner. This should correct the RPM.

But, you should probably do that last since it's a hastle, and you may not need it.

Ironliftr3 · 10-18-2009

I was very careful about not mis-connecting the wires, set the new and old caps side by side when I plugged the new wires into the new cap, but I'll double check.

Is there a way to check the engine code myself? Or do I need to bring it in? Also, how do I reset the engine light to verify it's still coming back? I disconnected the battery for about 30 minutes, that was obviously a futile attempt.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Also, thanks for the advice about not adjusting the idle screw, that's something I actually considered.

I'll try cleaning the intake system as suggested.

Ironliftr3 · 10-18-2009

delete

Cleft_Asunder · 4 Weeks Ago

Take it to autozone or whatever, and have them hook up a reader. If you ask them to delete the code for you, it's against their policy so tell him that you'll delete it. Make sure you delete it to see if the code comes back.

Oh and you can rent the reader for free from there too in case you can't get the car there.

Cleft_Asunder · 4 Weeks Ago

You didn't grease the coils did you? I don't remember if they come with grease in there already, or if grease isn't supposed to be there at all.

Ironliftr3 · 4 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cleft_Asunder

You didn't grease the coils did you? I don't remember if they come with grease in there already, or if grease isn't supposed to be there at all.

Grease what coils? Obviously the answer is no, I applied to grease.

gearbox · 4 Weeks Ago

you should put a bit of dielectric grease on the boots and the metal contacts, helps keep corrosion out.

Cleft_Asunder · 4 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearbox

you should put a bit of dielectric grease on the boots and the metal contacts, helps keep corrosion out.

Okay, I couldn't remember if they were supposed to be grease free or not.

Ironliftr3 · 4 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearbox

you should put a bit of dielectric grease on the boots and the metal contacts, helps keep corrosion out.

No, I did not. Was I supposed to? What's the final consensus?

I did remove the throttle body and air control valve. They was dirty as hell, and I cleaned the crap out of both with carb cleaner, scotchbright, and a rag. Ran fine afterward, but I've yet to drive and warm it up.

How common is it for the ACV to go bad? Seems like a possibility.

Also, is it necessary to 'relearn' the idle with a 6th generation civic? Probably going to try it anyway, can't see the harm.

Cleft_Asunder · 4 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ironliftr3

Also, is it necessary to 'relearn' the idle with a 6th generation civic?

Remove the negative cable, press brakes to remove all current, then re-attach. Then let the car idle for a few minutes. But the car is always learning so...