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So I got a little over a grand to play with and I was either going to boost or build and I can't really build anything reliable with boost for a grand so NA is the way to go. As some of you know im using skunk2 pro 1 cams with 10.4 pistons. I want to get up to about 11.5-12.1 compression usings cp srp or je wiseco pistons and a mugen head gasket. I want to be able to adjust the timing too maybe +1 -1. My question is, is there a dimension, a measurement or some kind of guide that will tell me definitively that my valves wont smash into my pistons? the lift on the cams is pretty good, a bit higher than CTR cams and ITR cams and I'm just worried that my valves will hit the pistons at 9k rpm. (that would be no es bueno) I searched on google and all i found were domestic shit kickers and when i searched "valve clearance" here on the forums I got a bunch of BS threads and one for valves on clearance....
If someone out there is running a similar set up and wants to give me some input that would be great. Thanks guys.
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__________________ B16 10.4:1 JDM Pistons ITR Manifold 70.2mm Throttle Body Skunk2 Stage 1 Pro Cams AEM FPR DC Header Magnaflow Custom 2.5" exhaust BDL Fuel Rail Nology Individually Grounded Wires Fidanza 7.5lb Flywheel Exedy Clutch Goodridge Braided Steel Clutch Line Fidanza Short Shifter Skunk2 knob JUN Chip
IM SO JDM I EVEN HAVE SARS
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usually "valve clearance" adjustments should be given to you with the cam you buy. if you are adding too many parts together, nobody can really be sure what will happen tho unless a shop builds the motor and watches it turn so they can see whats happening.
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If you are in doubt if the cam you buy will cause P2V, then you need to clay the pistons. Put a thin layer of clay on top of pistons, re-assemble the motor and head, carefully turn the motor over by one crank revolution, disassemble the motor and look for marks in the clay.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
You just need something that will take the indentation of the valve and hold the mark until you pull the motor apart to see what's what. Regular old modeling clay will work just fine.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
well i got a quote from a local speed shop here, if i bring them the parts they can assemble it for me and do the machine work etc 750 for labor. Now my initial estimate of bottom end parts ran me around 800 dollars if i use new h beams with srp forged pistons. If I use the stock rods then its around 400. So that got be thinking if i should just use nippon pistons, but then i found this....
Short blocks include, bore and power hone to the next size over stock, resurfacing the deck, hot tanking the engine, ACL bearings, micro polished crankshaft, CP forged pistons, JGE 4340 H beam rods & professional assembly. $1900.00. (new oil pump extra)
i mean its like an extra 600 plus shipping but they include all the parts i was going to use anyways and they machine the crank. I mean it may be a little bit more than I need don't you think for just an ordinary daily NA weekend racer?
__________________ B16 10.4:1 JDM Pistons ITR Manifold 70.2mm Throttle Body Skunk2 Stage 1 Pro Cams AEM FPR DC Header Magnaflow Custom 2.5" exhaust BDL Fuel Rail Nology Individually Grounded Wires Fidanza 7.5lb Flywheel Exedy Clutch Goodridge Braided Steel Clutch Line Fidanza Short Shifter Skunk2 knob JUN Chip
