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..... If thats not the problem... then check clearance issues. The exhaust flexes because the engine flexes. So it might be hitting your sway bar or something. If you have an lx/dx sway on your car the cat will be touching, there just isnt enough room and you'll need to lose the bar and pick up an EX or RSX front sway.
Report back.
Not to thread jack, but will one of these solve that problem also??
Forgive me if this was answered i read through the 17 or so pages and didn't find the exact answer i was looking for.
I have a 2005 Civic Reverb which has a d17a1 making it a dx \ lx i guess?
I want to buy an apexi world sport 2 catback, but it is only made for the ex, now i know the difference between the two models the cat is basically built into the dx/lx manifold and the ex is not.
I have not been able to find any pics comparing the length or setup under the car and im wondering how much work will it be to take the ws2 catback for the ex to a shop and have them fit it up to my stock header/cat.
^ words. I've also seen the adapter pipes for a dx/lx manifold to mate to an EX catback. I'm not sure who makes them though, or if they are only sold with certain exhausts.
It will take your exhaust shop one piece of pipe and two flanges to make it work. Probably cost you all of $100.
Nice so its not a big deal to do, i really didn't want to go through the work of relocating the o2 sensors etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRIZ
^ words. I've also seen the adapter pipes for a dx/lx manifold to mate to an EX catback. I'm not sure who makes them though, or if they are only sold with certain exhausts.
I noticed the magnaflo catback includes 2 pipes and says its made for the dx lx and ex, i was considering this catback but i dont really like the look of round strait through mufflers.
hey triz, i know the whole faq is on dx/lx but ive searched all over for some info on the ex header and i cant find much that i need.
i have an HP header to install on my ex, and i was looking at the two bolts at the bottom that connect at the downpipe. they have two spring looking things on them, and after looking at the stock header, those springs look like they were compressed somehow underneath the downpipe flange, so the bolt reached up from underneath and through the header holes. am i thinking too far into it or is there some sort of a tool youd need for it?
it looks like if i thread the bolts upward through the downpipe flange, the spring would stop it from being up far enough to reach the header holes.
Nope, you got it completely right. You just need to get under your car and apply a little upward pressure (to compress the springs) when you try and connect the header and downpipe. From experience tho, get new bolts if yours have a decent set of miles on them.. I snapped one off in that little f'er of a welded bolt. The thickness of the screws is just too small to withstand years and years of repeated heating up and cooling down to be torqued and untorqued more then a handfull of times.
ok right on, so it just takes pressure to squeeze them up.
heres my next question. the bolt is supposed to thread upward from the bottom and also supposed to have a nut on the top side of it, correct? mine never came with nuts. (i got it through a kind of local guy and it was used, but it only came with the bolts and no nuts).
also, the bolts are in pretty crappy shape (they are rusty and the threads are kind of worn out and rusty as well) and the threads on the header holes are in kind of rough worn out shape as well. could i just use a regular nut and bolt that is the right length instead? i was thinking i could get the new regular bolt just a hair smaller diameter than the headers hole so i completely avoid using the threads on the header holes. do you know what i mean? so it just slides through instead of threading through the header, and i would just thread the new nut ontop of it on the top side.
Yeah you can do that. I'd suggest a bigger thicker bolt. For my race header I had to pick up new hardware at napa. If you dont have the ability to drill metal, take it to a machine shop and have them drill out the hole big enough for the bolt you want to use. and have them do a few tack welds on the nut at the end. Just like stock, but better. The springs you dont really need. I think they are there to help the motor flex without your exhaust flexing but after that gasket between the header and down pipe wears out it really doesnt matter anyways. So what if it flexs- your rubber exhaust hangers will do a decent job of letting your exhaust pivot with the engine.
sounds pretty straight forward. after looking at the stock header, i thought those nuts were just seized to it. i didnt realise they were welded.
a few more questions now...will i also have to bore out the holes on the top of the downpipe flange? or will the newer header bolts go through there with a lot of slack?
my next question was about the springs and if they needed to be there. obviously the rusty bolts coming with the header have a very big top to each bolt that holds the spring up from underneath, and that would be really hard to find when looking for a new bolt. so im guessing just cake the new bigger bolt with anti seize grease and butt it right up to the bottom of the downpipe flange and torque away?
also lets say im able to drill it out myself....how important is it that the nuts are tack welded in place? can i go without it or do you think its that important?
also i just thought of something else too. what if i used a fairly thick washer on the bolt that the spring could sit on, and if i couldnt find one that was that thick, maybe two washers just to make it a bit stronger...that would work, no?
I was going to suggest using a washer if you wanted to still rock the springs on the bolts. You dont HAVE to get the nuts welded to the header, but it will make it one HELL of a lot easier on you when you try to put it all together. As it is, its still a pretty tricky job for one or two ppl. Having another head in the bay trying to hold the nuts from the top would make it even more difficult. A tack weld is cheap- a lot of shops probably wouldnt even charge you. Just throw 10 bucks their way for the hassle and they'll be happy.
As for the bolt holes in the downpipe flange, I dunno if you'll have to bore them out a little too. You might depending on what thickness bolt you get- from what I vaguely remember, they are slightly larger and give you some play room.
thanks again for all the help. ive got a couple projects in the works when i get back home in a few weeks, this is one of them. ive got pretty much what i need for info i think so well see how it goes when i get back home.
