Honda Civic DIYs and Civic Tech ChatHonda Civic DIYs and Civic Tech Chat - for the true gearheads! Bring your wrench, it's time for some Honda Civic DIY projects! Questions about problems with your car do NOT go here.
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All you have to do to stop the licence plate from rattling is drill where the two lower mounting holes on the licence plate are and put in a couple of screws. The licence plate won't rattle at all, and it looks better.
I know I'm late for this, but it still applies for 2003 Civics:
I installed some nice 6x9s in my rear deck and I had the rattle noise from the rear tail light too. I was going to try to shove stuff in there too, but I brought it to get the windows tinted and when they replaced the rear deck, it doesn't rattle anymore! Even with a more powerful stereo installed and a lot of punch (for 6x9s).
I read some of the posts in this thread about installation of dynamat. I've got some friends that work at the Soundshop in Colorado Springs and they do dynamat installs on cars, trucks, SUVs, whatever. Some of the people here posted that you just take a huge piece and plaster is in and then put another piece on it and smear it around. blah blah. NO. What you want to do is cut the dynamat into 4" x 4" squares and place the dynamat througout your trunk lid (or whatever is rattling...for me it's the lid), every 4 inches. That is, you'll have 4" x 4" dynamat with 4" x 4" open space like a checkerboard. This works and the reason it works is is because of the way the vibrations resonate on metal. Some dude explained it to me before. I forget...anyway the shiznit works. I've done it both ways. I smeared the crap all around on my 6th then and it still rattled like an SOB. Wasted 60 bux on the stuff. good luck to all
dynomat works on my ride no rattle at all i even covered the back of the license plate with it works good ive also heard of a spray on type try crutchfield.com or any stereo store
My two 12'' MTX 8000’s make my trunk scream, so I was really interested to see it this quick fix would work. Simply pull off the plastic latch cover (not all the way out, just pull out the top 4 metal clips) and wedge some dish towels in between the frame and the plastic latch cover. This seemed to be easier than taking the whole thing off considering most of us have a large sub box in the trunk. This allowed enough room for me to loosen the 10mm bolts, and lower the latch. After a few tries and some tinkering for a good combination between the latch height and the rubber trunk stoppers IT WORKED. Got to give props. to OPGForce for the simple trunk fix, and I would suggest this to anyone that has subs!
One more thing for people who have subs in their trunk is that because this SWEET DIY creates a more air tight seal in the trunk, if you don’t have one of the rear seats folded down, then your 6x9’s in the rear speaker shelf are going to get pounded really hard. Ideally you would want to install the 6x9 in their own air space, but this is not always possible. Thus, fold down (the seat doesn’t have to come down all the way, it can rest on the front seat(s) head rest) the pass or driver’s side rear 60/40-split seats to allow that air pressure to escape to the main cabin. For some people, depending upon your subwoofer and box set up, opening a rear seat can allow for more “bass” in the car. (make em’ hit harder)
