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Does anybody knows the color coding of the ECU to hook up the v-afc, looks like nobody has tried this thing!
Please help!!!!!
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<< can i ask u a question? hope u can answer it
how low can u lower ur vtec???
and have u noticed any difference in power ???
thanks for the info! >>
I think any lower than 3000 is bad, on my friends 97 SI he gained about .4 in the 1/4 mile!!! Thats with some guy who totaly knew how to tune the D16Y motor. I want one for my 2k1 soon.
Man! I've been trying to find somebody or a diagram or something just to find out what cables or how to hook it up, everybody says that because it's a new design, there is no way to hook it up, unless you have a diagram to find out which cable is which. It could be bad to hook up the wrong cable. By the way, do you feel the difference? Thanks man!
Well if you understand how the controller works (i.e. what wires have to hook up to what inputs and outputs) then I would suggest you get a copy of the honda factory service manual (your dealer can provide you with the form) and use the wiring diagrams in there to hook it up ja?
the difference from stock isn't that extreme, i was in a 99 prelude that my cousin had just installed (he owns altered atmophere) and all the gains were caused by droping the vtec kick in point. you dont get an increase in max power but you gain *a lot* of additional power from say 3500 to the point of stock activation and thus the car is MUCH quicker because the higher power lasts longer. If you raise the limit way up it is cool as hell when it kicks in, feels like you just hit the NOS [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
good luck, and if you get it to work let me know, i was going to try it myself around x-mas when i can get down to his shop.
So the VAFC will work for our cars, since we have The New I-Vtec? And it really works? And i know that with the new Vtec that it kicks in at like 4200 would it even be worth spending the 400 dollars for one?
I have the diagram here you go: Plus I have the Factory electrical manual on our cars
all but one of these wires can be located under the capret on the passenger side The map sensor wire.
connect these two in this order:
brown wire (ground connects to the black wire going to the ECU)
black wire (ground connects about 4 inches behind the brown wire, make sure that the brown wire is closer to the ecu than the black)
gray wire (connects to the red w/black stripe, this may also be found under the hood off of the TP Sensor) Thottle Sensor
green wire (connects to the baby blue wire at ECU) RPM Signal Wire
This is where it gets tricky. Pull 2 wires through the fire wall to the map sensor. connect one to the white wire of the V-AFC and the other to the yellow wire. DO NOT GET THESE WIRES MIXED UP.. Unsheath the harness and cut the green w/red stripe wire. This is the wire that sends the signal to the ECU. Remember to leave enough wire to butt connect to. With this in mind. Here we go....
white wire (connects the green w red stripe wire (that you cut) that goes into the map sensor itself.)
yellow wire (connects to the green w/ red stripe wire (that you cut) that goes back to the ECU)
The reason for pulling the wire is this. There are 5 green w/ red stipe wires that come through the firewall and you do not need to cut the wrong one.
Next is the VTEC wires:
Here we go again. This time pull 2 more wires (one connected to the purple wire and one connected to the pink wire of the V-AFC)through the firewall to right under the air box and the resonating box. It has a gray connector with a single blue wire coming out of it. This is where the VTEC solenoid valve is.... Once again cut the blue wire remember to leave enough to but connect to....
pink wire (connects to the blue wire (that you cut) that goes to the VTEC solenoid valve)
purple wire (connects to the blue wire (that you cut) that goes from the VTEC solenoid valve to the ECU)
Now to power it:
red wire (connets to the yellow w/ black stripe wire that goes into the ECU)
orange wire (connects to the yellow w/ black stripe wire (behind the red wire that is closer to the ECU than this one) that goes to the ECU)
Here is the 2nd option to the power. Remember that your car will not run unless the V-AFC is on. So either you can hook up the power wire as above, or you can hook both wires up to a switch that is hot at all times (this is how I have mine, since I have push button ignition in my car).
I hope that this helps!!! If you need more info please
It says you have the Super AFC in your sig?? Is it the same as the V-AFC??? I thought it was different. Nice DIY, where did you get the electrical manual from?? Helms manual?? Thanks.
