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View Poll Results: Who does your oil change?
I do my own 500 68.21%
I take it to a quick lube place 116 15.83%
I take it to the dealership 117 15.96%
Voters: 733. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 10-04-2004   #76 (permalink)
ohiojosh78
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ok so that article says that they rank the Honda OEM #1 overall and #1 in filter area (most important feature) but at the end they say, "OEM filters still the best? Maybe not."

I dont understand that part. it looks like their tests say that OEM is best but then they contradict themselves???

Nervermind I read that last part to fast. They DO agree that Honda OEM filter is best.
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Old 10-04-2004   #77 (permalink)
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not to mention they say its composition and construction is identical to fram, which scored last place..but yet they still rank it at #1? im not gonna put much faith into that test.. anyone who ranks a filter with cardboard endcaps #1 needs their head checked
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Old 10-06-2004   #78 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctx66
not to mention they say its composition and construction is identical to fram, which scored last place..but yet they still rank it at #1? im not gonna put much faith into that test.. anyone who ranks a filter with cardboard endcaps #1 needs their head checked
Yes, but they siad it got #1 simply because it had more of the fram filtering material inside, thus it has a greater filtering capcity. Cardboard endcaps seems shaky, but it works, and it works almost all the time from what see (at least under normal circumstances).
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Old 10-11-2004   #79 (permalink)
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Castrol Syntec 5w20 full synthetic and a k&n oil filter. I really don't understand why people are whining about the placement of the filter...I've never changed the oil on any other car, but ours are pretty darn easy to get to.
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Old 10-11-2004   #80 (permalink)
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I agree, I've dealt with worse! Just buy some Wal-Mart black ramps and drive up on em'. Makes life MUCH easier. I lay on my roller board and have fun changin' the oil!
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Old 10-15-2004   #81 (permalink)
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Change your own.

I'm using RedLine 5w-20. Was using the K&N oil filters, but I'm trying the Mobil 1 filters just to see if the oil is cleaner. K&N has better flow for racing / autocross but filtration is better on the M1.

Oil change intervals of 6K miles... filter change and Topoff at 3K or so miles.

So why change your own then? Well, you get to get under your car and are forced to kind of understand how stuff works. Also, if you have a torn CV boot or something dripping, you'll notice it right away, while the guys at iffy lube may not remember to tell you.

Financially, if you run synthetic, you should probably do it yourself. Consider:

"Standard" iffy lube with just the labor (You supply oil + filter) is 15.00 or so i think. For synthetic Oil from them it's like 35, and their syn will probably not be the best stuff on earth.

Redline is about $8 a qt, figure 4 qts (So you have about a 1/2 full one for when you change the filter and need to top off in your trunk): $32

A good M1 oil filter would be about 8 bucks, maybe less

Fixed cost of about 50 bucks for Jacks / Stands / Beer / drain pan/ impulse buys at the Parts store.

assuming you give them the oil / filter you want them to use and just pay the labor, you break even after the 4th full change when the labor savings = 60 bucks.

By doing it yourself you also save the headache of having the moron in the pit strip your pan gasket threads by using an air wrench to replace (permanently) the drain plug

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"If it's so essential, ask yourself why you've been able to live without it before now."

Try doing something nice for a total stranger, then look back at your car. Notice that the good feeling you get from helping lasts all day, but you constantly have to put stuff on your car to feel better.

Good Thoughts, Good Words, Good Deeds

Last edited by reddawnman; 10-15-2004 at 03:41 AM.
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Old 10-15-2004   #82 (permalink)
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i just changed my oil for the first time last weekend, and it is really easy. I was looking around at oils, though, and the redline was $7.98/qt, while Castrol Syntec (also full synthetic) was $5.00/qt. That's a pretty big difference, so I went with the Castrol.
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Old 10-15-2004   #83 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker87
i just changed my oil for the first time last weekend, and it is really easy. I was looking around at oils, though, and the redline was $7.98/qt, while Castrol Syntec (also full synthetic) was $5.00/qt. That's a pretty big difference, so I went with the Castrol.
RedLine is made using full PAO (Polyaliphaticoleoresin) syn oils. Syntec is made using a diff formulation. Also redline has a buttload of moly in it, which is where some of the cost comes from. I like redline because of the moly and extended drains. lots of ppl swear by Mobil 1 or German Castrol (Castrol synthetic made in germany, green tinge) To each his own.

If you are interested in oil / lubrication stuff, check out

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
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My Timing Belt DIY

Coolant Flush DIY

"If it's so essential, ask yourself why you've been able to live without it before now."

Try doing something nice for a total stranger, then look back at your car. Notice that the good feeling you get from helping lasts all day, but you constantly have to put stuff on your car to feel better.

Good Thoughts, Good Words, Good Deeds

Last edited by reddawnman; 10-15-2004 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 10-15-2004   #84 (permalink)
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pao stands for polyalphaolefin. red line is not full pao. it is a poe (polyolester), and pao mix.
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Old 10-15-2004   #85 (permalink)
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Red Line huh? I used Red Line fuel injector cleaner but never saw the oil. Hmmm. I am using Moble 1 Syn right now. Do you think Red Line is that much better? Or shall I say, worth the extra cost? Moble 1 is around $5 a quart.

Thanks.
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Old 10-15-2004   #86 (permalink)
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hey guys!, when I checked my oil this morning... and tried smelling the oil, it smells like it got some fuel mixed with it... is this normal? i'm using Mobil 1 supersyn 5w 30... LMK you guys thanks!
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Old 10-15-2004   #87 (permalink)
ctx66
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id suggest getting a used oil analysis to see if there is fuel in your oil

heres a popular lab
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
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Old 10-16-2004   #88 (permalink)
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^^^thanks dood!
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Old 10-16-2004   #89 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctx66
pao stands for polyalphaolefin. red line is not full pao. it is a poe (polyolester), and pao mix.
I stand corrected.. I thought it was full PAO...

As to whether its worth the extra 3 bucks a qt., I'm not sure right now. I've been following BITOG (bobistheoilguy.com) message boards, and most people are mobil 1 or german castrol fans, lots of redline poo-pooing going on there.

If you look at the Used oil analyses ont he site, if redline is used in the right weights as recommended, and you give it time (like 3K miles) to coat the parts with a lot of moly, it gives great numbers.

You'll have to decide if its worth the extra 3 bucks a qt. Personally I havent gotten a UOA yet. the next time I have 23 bucks to send it to blackstone I will.
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My Timing Belt DIY

Coolant Flush DIY

"If it's so essential, ask yourself why you've been able to live without it before now."

Try doing something nice for a total stranger, then look back at your car. Notice that the good feeling you get from helping lasts all day, but you constantly have to put stuff on your car to feel better.

Good Thoughts, Good Words, Good Deeds
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Old 10-16-2004   #90 (permalink)
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if you do decide to get your oil analyzed, post the results here and they can tell you more about what itmeans, but blackstone also tells you a bit.
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