Honda Civic DIYs and Civic Tech ChatHonda Civic DIYs and Civic Tech Chat - for the true gearheads! Bring your wrench, it's time for some Honda Civic DIY projects! Questions about problems with your car do NOT go here.
Welcome to civicforums.com!
Welcome to civicforums.com.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join civicforums.com today!
I switched to Mobil 1 5w30 a few years ago, because Costco carries it fairly cheap. I was running a V6 Camaro 5-spd on Chevron 10w30, and when I switched, my fuel mileage increased by 2 mpg. Wondering if it was more due to viscosity change, or if the synthetic is really that much more slippery.
I use K&N Filters, not much more expensive than a wix, and claimed to filter down to 10 microns. I used to use wix.
I read about Mobil 1 not being 100% synthetic, because they use a carrier oil to blend in their additives. This carrier oil is petroleum based (dino). Redline is 100% synthetic, and all the additives are added during manufacture, as they are a small company and are able to do that. At least that's what their rep told me. Redline is not API certified, and I asked the rep why. He said they would have to lower their performance to meet those specs. Another mechanic I asked said that it is too sticky, works well in drag cars, but for everyday drivers, the cold starts, etc, the valves will stick after a while. Another opinion I read in a site (maybe Bob the Oil Guy) says that API lowered the required level of a certain additive to preserve cat life. Apparently this particular additive burns off, and does bad things to the cat, so if you change you oil every 3K, the cat life is shortened. The Redline is supposed to be good for at least 10K, with a filter change in between. I have only been using it a few months, no problems yet. Haven't really seen much mileage improvement over the Honda Genuine 5w30 yet..........
I take mine to the dealership, but mainly because the total cost is only $24 and that includes a car wash and they top off all other fluids. I have never purchased any other fluids for my car, including washer fluid for 3 years. Yeah sure, I could change it myself for less money, but for that price why get dirty??
I take mine to the dealership, but mainly because the total cost is only $24 and that includes a car wash and they top off all other fluids. I have never purchased any other fluids for my car, including washer fluid for 3 years. Yeah sure, I could change it myself for less money, but for that price why get dirty??
24$ bucks....wtf???
nice
__________________ 7thGen.MT.C.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gearbox
alot of people just talk to say something. most of the time they have no idea wtf is going on lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by manahoonie
lol. well we got newbs to use the SEARCH button.... NOW the next step is to look at the date
I always change my oil myself. The g/f had her oil changed at a shop once and the filter fell off...
I currently use a Mobil 1 5W20 w/ a PureONE Puralator filter and change every 4k - 7k miles depending on driving, weather, etc. After research on BITOG, I am thinking of trying another synthetic (Shell Rotella). I drive this car EASY.
In my SHO, I think I'll run Reline or AMSOIL synthetic oil (10W30 or 0W40)(currently only at 1,600 miles on motor so using GTX) with an AMSOIL filer and change every 3k miles or less. I've been known to use all 600hp on a regular basis.
__________________ Jason
2006 Mazda 3
2002 Honda Civic EX Coupe 1995 Ford Taurus SHO
Always have done my own oils changes. If you don't have a vehicle lift or a pit you will have to jack the vehicle up to get to the drain plug and oil filter. All in all, it's worth the effort.
