Honda Civic DIYs and Civic Tech ChatHonda Civic DIYs and Civic Tech Chat - for the true gearheads! Bring your wrench, it's time for some Honda Civic DIY projects! Questions about problems with your car do NOT go here.
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I don't think the paint matters, since the current goes through the bolt. I still got a huge base increase from my subs without shaving anything. I might decide to shave them, but boy I had serious problems trying to get that firewall bolt back in!
that's true, the current goes through the bolt anyway, so shaving off the paint doesnt really make a difference. it just gives the current more room to work with. and amen to that firewall bolt.. that sucker was tough!
another question guys, in this picture, is the current going from one wire to the other?
I'm not sure what material the bracket is, so i may not be grounding the strut tower at all
Quote:
Originally posted by gearbox I just remembered--the whole car is painted right? So how would shaving a little spot result in a better ground?
The bracket is metal, I think, but maybe you should wire them on the same bolt. There will be very little room to work with if you try it.
After having the kit on a couple of days, I've also noticed that the car starts better in the morning (cold start). Stereo improvement is amazing--feels like I bought new subs and amp.
Originally posted by Mex hey, I'm wondering. rather than mount to the valve cover, why not mount directly here?
IMO it looks cleaner, but I dunno if it's a good idea, simply because i don't know what would happen if I ground that particular area. would grounding there still be equal to grounding the valve cover? looks like it's a more central location, i'm just not sure how the current would flow in the 2 variations.... someone please give me your feedback
same question i have..
nobody answered yet..
someone help us..
Hmmm, mex--I talked to some car audio people who think it is better to shave the area around the ground point. This is done so the ground has a greater area, rather than just the bolt. It won't make much of a difference, though.
so how bout an upgrade for the alternator to battery wire. in the audio world, the alt to battery wire is a MUST. and what about a 1/0 gauge kit... is that available as well?
I tried upgrading the stock engine to radiator support wire and the car didn't like it. It wasn't as quick off the line. Strange. It seems like the car has good days and bad. Sometimes it will drive so much faster for no apparent reason. ..But that's an entirely different problem.
Originally posted by gearbox I tried upgrading the stock engine to radiator support wire and the car didn't like it. It wasn't as quick off the line. Strange. It seems like the car has good days and bad. Sometimes it will drive so much faster for no apparent reason. ..But that's an entirely different problem.
so are you saying it may not be because you upgraded that wire?
I think it WAS from the upgraded wire. I just put the stock one back on just in case. Btw, I used 8 gauge when I tried it. Just stick with installing the grounding kit and don't replace any other wires.
I'm in the process of redoing my ICE setup and had the woofers out. Let me tell you, the car is so much faster after losing that 70 lbs.
I'm going to get the materials this weekend and try it out. I'm going to set it up as a network (i.e neg to A, neg to b, neg to C...) since no one seems to have done it that way and yet the diagram posted earlier in this post suggests it. I'm pretty familiar with my car now so any difference from the wires should be noticeable. I'll post the pros/cons later in this same post.
FYI:
I'm going to use 4 g wire and go from Neg to: trans, firewall right strut tower, radiator wall, valve cover.
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