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Originally posted by gearbox In addition to following Happies method of daisy-chaining the wires, would replacing the factory grounds with thicker (4 gauge) cable help too?
Yes... If you want to, do that first do it and see if it helps... I bet it will.
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the reason why there are two wires going out from negative terminal is that one goes to tranny and another goes to radiator support right?
stock ground is the one from the negative terminal to the tranny? is that all stock has? should i replce it? or just leave it and start from the tranny? or just leave it and start from the negative terminal so in result i have two wires that go from the negative terminal to the tranny?
is there any risk that the rubber part melt down by the engine heat?
is there any risk from installing the wires to everywhere i want to?
can someone explain details about how to make the wires with gold plate and that black part and what kinda wire should i use 4G or 8G?
get some 4 gauge ring terminals from the stereo shop.
4 gauge is what every one wants these days, not 8 gauge.
no risk, if you keep the wire away from hot engine parts then the wire should be fine.
everywhre you want to, it depends where?
leave the stock ground and just add my grounding kit. =) in my kit one wire goes from the negative to the tranny point just like stock, it woulnt do any harm to leave the stock grouding point.
The ignition system is coil based. The voltage coming to the coil is not the voltage that actually passes to the spark plug. There are two coiled wires that are parallel to each other. When current is pushed down the primary side (ECU SIDE) it causes a magnetic field in the secondary side. This actually PULLS current suddenly from the ground. Your ignition power is produced from your grounds on the engine. Why you feel improvement with better grounding system? Resistance is the reason. Every time a wire must change metals or contacts there is a loss of overall voltage. This system uses Siamese coils. This means that there is a lost spark. What does that mean? Depending on the routing, there is a spark plug that sparks when there is no fuel to combust. Why it happens? In Siamese coils, the first plug in line uses voltage from the electrode to arc to the ground, on the second plug it uses that voltage coming from ground to spark to the electrode.
By grounding the system better, you give the engine a much better path for this voltage to accumulate through. Electricity will find the path of least resistance. Using grounding straps or thicker wires is like putting a highway through a downtown highly populated area. Yes, the surface streets move people out of the city. A highway just moves them out faster and with much more volume. Spark increases in intensity and that is why you see improvements in mileage and hp. You are getting a more complete combustion.
Other electrical components operate better because they also don’t have to fight all the changes in resistance and flow. If a headlamp is trying to get power, trace the routes it takes to ground. You will notice a small improvement by just jumping it straight to the battery. I did a small experiment on my Toyota Tacoma to figure out how the wiring worked. I took my fog lights and used a Scottish connector to wire it to the ground wire of the head lamp. What this got me was a fog light that ran no matter the settings on my head lamp. It was getting voltage on both high and low.
More grounds won’t help your starting or cranking time. This is due to ground wires and positive wires coming straight to the starter from the battery. You can’t get much better than that. Audio profiles have been doing this for years since the demands for more power from the stereo is so high, they would actually melt grounds on the engine. At least that was the case of my friends before they put capacitors in line to relieve some of the line pressure drawn by their subs.
Critics who doubt the usefulness of a very well grounded electronics system should learn a little about ignition systems and current flow. On a Yamaha engine, ONE ground can stop the engine completely from running. If that engine had multiple grounds to feed from, it would never have stopped. Why manufacturers haven’t pounced on this? Manufacturing costs of the process. They would have to pay a person to mount the grounds, cut the grounds, verify the grounds, another to procure the grounds, and another engineer to decide what spots were best and what gauge. All this takes a LOT of money, so they will continue to use the least costly way.
hmm ... I just installed a grounding wire kit (not from you, happy... sorry ... hehe) ... it's from Linage. Anyway ... I did not mount it to the tranny .. but I mounted from negative to firewall to strut tower bar, to valve cover, to radiator support and back to the negative. O well. I don't know what I'm doing anyway.
Ok, so I reset my ecu and I notice a HELL of a lot more low end ... but I might've been robbed of high end ... not sure ... I need to do a couple speed tests and I'll post again in a day or so ;P ... but that is my butt dyno
Originally posted by happies713 leave the stock ground and just add my grounding kit. =) in my kit one wire goes from the negative to the tranny point just like stock, it woulnt do any harm to leave the stock grouding point.
so there are gonna two wires, one stock one new, that go from the negative terminal to the tranny??
There is also that grounding cable from engine to chassis in the very front of the car in the middle. I think leaving the stock grounds alone and adding the new kit would be best. I've heard many audio cables aren't 100% copper and won't work as well as stock.
i ran from neg. terminal to radiator support...radiator support to valve cover
and from neg. terminal to firewall...
i have two cables left over to stick somewhere...i may play around with my configuration
upon starting the car i turned on the radio and it sounded soooo much better...i just have some kenwoods in the back and a cheap amp amping my cerwin vega fronts...
i havnt really driven enough to see if there's any performance improvement...seems like there was but it might be in my head...but my stereo DEFINATLY sounds better...i had the same cd in the car and was listening to the same songs with the same headunit settings...
is it better to install them from negative terminal to A to B to C
or from negative terminal to A, negative terminal to B, negative terminal to C?? which one works better?
if i ground it to the car body, doesnt it increase the chances of eletric shock or something?
is there any place that i must not ground?
hey, I'm wondering. rather than mount to the valve cover, why not mount directly here?
IMO it looks cleaner, but I dunno if it's a good idea, simply because i don't know what would happen if I ground that particular area. would grounding there still be equal to grounding the valve cover? looks like it's a more central location, i'm just not sure how the current would flow in the 2 variations.... someone please give me your feedback
