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Honda Civic Racing, Street Encounters and Competition Racing Honda Civic Racing happens on the street and on the track. There are different setups needed if you are using your Honda Civic for drifting, drag racing, or track racing. Share your stories of Honda Civic racing here.

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Old 03-02-2005   #106 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82801BA
It is very bad to have peeks and dips noticible in the dyno. However, torque graph will never become flat(or the car will not accelerate at all). Horswpower wise, good to get more midrange than high range(time issue). Say if my car has generally 10 hp higher than your car between 3000-5000 rpm, and your peak is at 115@6300, my peak is set at 110@5300, and we both have a very flat hp curve(as all d17a2 civics do), my car will still run faster than yours. Kind of.

Yeah, in that later example with horsepower, that is when you may want to get the ruler out to measure the area, becasue in a case that close, it will be very dependant on how broad the peak is, but you get the idea. It will more so be a drivers race where I will have be strogling to keep my car in it's power ban while you have no worries of that.
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Old 03-02-2005   #107 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82801BA
It is very bad to have peeks and dips noticible in the dyno. However, torque graph will never become flat(or the car will not accelerate at all). Horswpower wise, good to get more midrange than high range(time issue). Say if my car has generally 10 hp higher than your car between 3000-5000 rpm, and your peak is at 115@6300, my peak is set at 110@5300, and we both have a very flat hp curve(as all d17a2 civics do), my car will still run faster than yours. Kind of.

Which durve is smoother 6th gen ex or 7th gen ex?
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Old 03-02-2005   #108 (permalink)
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7th gen. Much smoother without any correction.
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Old 03-02-2005   #109 (permalink)
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7th gen. Much smoother without any correction.
yeah, much nicer. They are both posted all over.
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Old 03-02-2005   #110 (permalink)
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Everything was due to the long intake runner (optimized for mid range) and the extra-low VTEC engagement point. People wanted to put VTEC controllers in to make engagement point down to 3000 to compensate for the loss after 3000 and the jump at 4500 in older civics. We have that from the factory.
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Old 03-02-2005   #111 (permalink)
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This is off topic but with lighter rims and v rated tires, how does it affect our 0-60 and 1/4 mile times?
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Old 03-02-2005   #112 (permalink)
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Slower unless you go with ultra light 14" and ultra low traction tires. Rolling ressitance is I=mr^2 which means mass is NOT as important as the raidus. Radius goes with square. V rated tires always have better traction, and traction is actually friction, that will add to your acceleration resistance.
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Old 03-02-2005   #113 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82801BA
Slower unless you go with ultra light 14" and ultra low traction tires. Rolling ressitance is I=mr^2 which means mass is NOT as important as the raidus. Radius goes with square. V rated tires always have better traction, and traction is actually friction, that will add to your acceleration resistance.
Cool So grippier tires with actually slow me down, on the RSX Type S many people have had improvement in their 1/4 mile times with stickier tires.

So Kosei 14 x 6 inch rims (9.3 pounds) with which tires would make a significant diff over stock?
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Old 03-02-2005   #114 (permalink)
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For daily driving, I would not recommend a poor traction tire because it will be dangerous. Lightweight rim but sticky tire can be good combination. If you don't care speedometer readings, just go ahead to get a low profile tire. (The tire wall adds to the (I) equation also)
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Old 03-02-2005   #115 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82801BA
For daily driving, I would not recommend a poor traction tire because it will be dangerous. Lightweight rim but sticky tire can be good combination. If you don't care speedometer readings, just go ahead to get a low profile tire. (The tire wall adds to the (I) equation also)

So could you say acceleration could improve by as much as .2 seconds?

and 1/4 mile as well?

Is there a way to calucalte the results without actually going out buying everything and beeing dissapointed?
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Old 03-02-2005   #116 (permalink)
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0.2 seconds? Train yourself is a better way other than buying whatever.
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Old 03-02-2005   #117 (permalink)
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there is fine balance you need to consdier when buying tires.

1. Traction is only as much as you need. So buy putting sticky tires on your car, you can create more traction and friction. However this is far far out wieghed by the fact that you can now put more power down more power with out spinning your tires and luanch from a higher RPM. Put a low traction tire on, you will spin your tires, you go nowhere very fast. Put tires that are to sticky on your car you will loose some time to friction, but it will be fractional.

2. Remeber that if the tire is wider, it will have more traction too, and hence more friction, even if it is teh same tire, wider is better for traction.

So, more traction is good for the strip becasue you can put more power down and get better luanches, more power to the ground >> than the power lost to friction. However for dialy driven cars, traction like this and friction = big looses to MPG, so a skinny tire is desired. That's why Honda puts some what skinny tire on their cars from the factory, look at the S2000.
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Old 03-02-2005   #118 (permalink)
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The balance i talk about above is that you need to find a tire that is sticky enough to handle your car's power output, but not so sticky that you are loosing gobs of power to frictional looses.
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Old 03-02-2005   #119 (permalink)
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Good traction doesn't do much to FWD cars on strip. Period.
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Old 03-02-2005   #120 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82801BA
Good traction doesn't do much to FWD cars on strip. Period.

LOL, I raced in snow tires then put on a set Toyo RA-1's and my time dropped by .7 seconds.

Come on, with out a high end simulation and tests to back up the theory you learn in class, it just that, theory, while your theories often do hold true, you leave out way to many other factors to be able to properly simulate or make assumputions. For instance, in physics they will tell you that you can stop faster with ABS than without, yet it is widely known that this is not true, given you are a perfect driver in perfect conditions.

To say that traction doesn't make a difference is just wrong. True many poeple put alot more sticky tire than they need. But how do you plan on putting down more power (i.e. torque) with out increasing you traction? I had an older civic that in street tires could smoke the tire through every gear all the through third gear and most of fourth. Now I put slicks on it, I can run through all but 1st without a problem.

So if traction doesn't make a difference, why do pro FWD racers use slicks? According to you they would run the same times on Honda OEM tires right?
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