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I don't own a RSX-S, just a Civic with RSX-S suspension. That's about it.
185/65/15 was my factory size. Anything between 185 and 205 with 60 for 195 and 205 will be fine, but just wondering what brand of tire is good to use.
Also, my sway bar setup is 15mm front 03 EX bar and 19mm rear RSX sway bar.
Wonder what will happen if I use RSX damper with Civic spring.
Like I siad, Falken Azenix are good, high traction, don't last long, thus in the 205's what I ran on my civic, I would have preffered a 195, but they don't make a 195.
You siad the RSX front springs are longer than the civic. Is this true for the rear spings also? If the rear are the same, is it possible that the front springs are more compressed than the rear? That would make the front spring really stiff compared to the rear, I think.
Sorry for the long post above, sometime I just bable away.
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Yokohama AVS 100 are good, less expensive than the Falken, not as good either, but a little better for tire ware
Dunlop Sp 4000 I liked alot, they are really not in the same catagory as the FAlken or Yoko, but they have just a tad bit less traction than the Yokos, but 1.5 times the tread life. I found these to be the best comprimise between high traction for turning, tire life and MPG. These will be the next set on my Accord.
what about Ecsta Supra 712? Are those good in terms of wear and performance?
never had them, heard they go about 30k, the Dunlop 4000 usually go about 40k. Not much help, Guessing they are a little more stick than the Dunlops though, not sure.
Like I siad, Falken Azenix are good, high traction, don't last long, thus in the 205's what I ran on my civic, I would have preffered a 195, but they don't make a 195.
You siad the RSX front springs are longer than the civic. Is this true for the rear spings also? If the rear are the same, is it possible that the front springs are more compressed than the rear? That would make the front spring really stiff compared to the rear, I think.
Sorry for the long post above, sometime I just bable away.
The front spring I think is the same. The rear spring has 1 1/2 more loop than Civic, therefore I believe it is more compressed. RSX dampers are made in Japan though (says on the label), while the Civic's is made in Mexico(?)(Like the headlight does?). But my car's front is sitting a little higher than the rear(by the gap), that's why I think the front damper/spring has to do something with it.
__________________ Dynaudio 3-way is the worst system for tuning, but it's the best sound I've ever heard of....Finally, done tuning for staging....
The front spring I think is the same. The rear spring has 1 1/2 more loop than Civic, therefore I believe it is more compressed. RSX dampers are made in Japan though (says on the label), while the Civic's is made in Mexico(?)(Like the headlight does?). But my car's front is sitting a little higher than the rear(by the gap), that's why I think the front damper/spring has to do something with it.
Humm.... unless the dampers are maxxed out, I don't think they should affect your cars hieght, setting still anyway. But if your front is higher than your rear, then you have "loaded" the wieght to the rear of your car, that's usually bad for FWD car handling abilty.
They make a 15", but it's 205/50/15 That's a lot smaller tire, make you quicker. You can alwasy get your speedo adjusted by the dealer to for smaller tires.
Humm.... unless the dampers are maxxed out, I don't think they should affect your cars hieght, setting still anyway. But if your front is higher than your rear, then you have "loaded" the wieght to the rear of your car, that's usually bad for FWD car handling abilty.
I was thinking the front of the car doesn't have enough weight to depress the spring so the damp becomes higher (spring dominated), that's why i come back to ask what happen if i put civic spring on rsx-s damper. I know the spring rate of RSX-S is high.
__________________ Dynaudio 3-way is the worst system for tuning, but it's the best sound I've ever heard of....Finally, done tuning for staging....
I was thinking the front of the car doesn't have enough weight to depress the spring so the damp becomes higher (spring dominated), that's why i come back to ask what happen if i put civic spring on rsx-s damper. I know the spring rate of RSX-S is high.
Yeah, your right about the springs. But I was thinking in a static situtation, when the car is not moving, the dampers play little role of hieght. If you say the car is setting high in the front jus tsetting still, my guess is that when you approach a corner, but still striaght, the car is really loaded in the rear, so you have little traction in the front, where you want it when you start to turn. Then when you accelerate through the turn you will be loading even more to the rear. You can see I haven't even gotten to the dampers, just assume your shock are perfect for a second and imagine the car going through the turn and see if you can catch what I am saying.
An interesting thing would be to put the front civic spring back on while having the RSX's rears on. This is hard to predict because the center of balance has moved from Factory setting due the the extra stereo equipment you mentioned. My thought is that the RSX spring will hopefully compinsate for the added rear weight, while the civic springs will work good with the front. Not sure thoguh.
Getting back to your question of shocks though, Zzyzx can answer it better than I becasue he has far more experience with this stuff. And I'm not sure just how RSX is damped.
Yeah, your right about the springs. But I was thinking in a static situtation, when the car is not moving, the dampers play little role of hieght. If you say the car is setting high in the front jus tsetting still, my guess is that when you approach a corner, but still striaght, the car is really loaded in the rear, so you have little traction in the front, where you want it when you start to turn. Then when you accelerate through the turn you will be loading even more to the rear. You can see I haven't even gotten to the dampers, just assume your shock are perfect for a second and imagine the car going through the turn and see if you can catch what I am saying.
An interesting thing would be to put the front civic spring back on while having the RSX's rears on. This is hard to predict because the center of balance has moved from Factory setting due the the extra stereo equipment you mentioned. My thought is that the RSX spring will hopefully compinsate for the added rear weight, while the civic springs will work good with the front. Not sure thoguh.
Getting back to your question of shocks though, Zzyzx can answer it better than I becasue he has far more experience with this stuff. And I'm not sure just how RSX is damped.
I'll try, but my hope is still on the spring rate since the damper really has nothing to do on supporting the car. So if my car is not heavy enough, the spring will elongate and it makes the car higher on that part. Putting the Civic spring will make it "look" right I think, but how it will work with RSX damper is another story.
BTW, before I install front RSX-S shocks, I had them on hold by putting just the rear shocks on the car (was waiting for the outer ball joint). The result: It looks very sporty though, lower front and high rear. However, it WAS a little boucy in the rear vs. the front. It shouldn't happen now because the suspension is now like 30,000 miles now.
I have a complete RSX-S suspension in my car (beside front sway and front tower).
The total stereo equipment weight is nothing more than 70 lbs, and the spoiler is another 40 lbs?
__________________ Dynaudio 3-way is the worst system for tuning, but it's the best sound I've ever heard of....Finally, done tuning for staging....
If you're talking about MKIV (99-2004) Jettas, you're absolutley right. 112 HP is not enough to pull 2,900lbs, no matter what.
He might have had an old G20 motor in a MKII or III. They were light enough to deal with little power.
Yes, I had a 97 Jetta with the 2.0 8v. BTW, the 2.0 8v is 115 hp. My car also weighed 2720 lbs with me and 1/4 tank of gas, had a GIAC chip, Eurospec 262 cam, custom CAI, Techtonics cat-back, and lightweight Enkei Racing rims. When I last dyno'd the car is put 121 hp, and 125 tq to the wheels. Not your typical 2 liter Jetta.
__________________ -Jeff, MECP certified installer
2004 Civic VP coupe auto - custom CAI, OBX Type R exhaust (rear section)
Best 1/4 Mile: 17.098 @ 79.16 mph
I'll try, but my hope is still on the spring rate since the damper really has nothing to do on supporting the car. So if my car is not heavy enough, the spring will elongate and it makes the car higher on that part. Putting the Civic spring will make it "look" right I think, but how it will work with RSX damper is another story.
BTW, before I install front RSX-S shocks, I had them on hold by putting just the rear shocks on the car (was waiting for the outer ball joint). The result: It looks very sporty though, lower front and high rear. However, it WAS a little boucy in the rear vs. the front. It shouldn't happen now because the suspension is now like 30,000 miles now.
I have a complete RSX-S suspension in my car (beside front sway and front tower).
The total stereo equipment weight is nothing more than 70 lbs, and the spoiler is another 40 lbs?
That sounds like it looked nice...
70 lbs and 40lbs (I don't know what kind of spoiler you have, but I think the stock fiberglass one is only about 15lbs) is far from the center of gravity of the car. When you're turning, think of you car in the angular direction. SO while they may only way 70 and 15-40lb (we'll call it all 100 lbs for simplicity) is actually creating a torque about the center of gravity of your car. The the angular momentum on those is going to be their weight times the length (probably about 5 feet from the center of gravity, because the front is far heavier than the rear, so the COG is shifted front ward) time force, we'll say you are pulling 0.80g's (0.80G = 25.7 ft/sec squared) I'm sure you can do the calculation, but for the rest, T=F*L 100lb*5feet*25.7 ft/sec2 = 12850 ft-lb. Now agian is I siad earlier, this is textbook approach and is off because I don't the exact COG, I also am not sure how the fact that tires are between the added weight and the COG. I think 12,000 is a bit high, I would guess it's probably closer to 500 ft-lb, which is still enough to make the car a little tail happy. But an ME could verify this these number much better than I, but you get the concept I am tring to convey, I hope.
Exact COG needs finite element method, may be we don't know how to do it, but I will eventually do. BTW, F*L is not angular momentum. That's the turning moment. Angular momentum is "moment of moment", kind of like Rx(RxF). Well, a pure Dynamics book is very much different than Physics book anyway.
Remembering those days when I took dynamics, it has all kind of rotation and translation problems. We actually had the ABS thing for homework but it turned out that ABS takes much more distance to stop the car (rotation+translation vs. pure translation)!! And all kind of "curve grade" involved in the problems.
Physics is easy, but "Applied Physics" is not that simple.
__________________ Dynaudio 3-way is the worst system for tuning, but it's the best sound I've ever heard of....Finally, done tuning for staging....
Guessing they are a little more stick than the Dunlops though, not sure. 
However, it WAS a little boucy in the rear vs. the front. It shouldn't happen now because the suspension is now like 30,000 miles now.
