Getting back at that NA build, BUILD ON HOLD

[mule69]

Would doing a NA build have any effect on the reliability of the engine over the long term?

To remove this ad, register today for free or log in if already registered!

[TRIZ]

Originally Posted by mule69

Would doing a NA build have any effect on the reliability of the engine over the long term?

Its anyones guess. But if you do it correctly and safely and dont be stupid about it like deciding to see what happens with say 15:1 compression, then it will last just as long as any other stock motor. If you cut corners and decide not to replace things that should be replaced when having the motor apart, if your dealing with internals that is, then you can screw up your ride. This all depends on how far you want to go with the build of course. The easiest NA build I can think of would be dropping in a stage 1 cam from crower and calling it good. Will it affect the life of your engine? Not really... there is the posability that you can mess shit up on the install and ruin your motor, but take your time and be sure you know what your doing, and if you dont- take it to someone who does, and you should be good and have your motor run just as long, if not longer, than any stock motor.

....basically this is a long winded reply that breaks down into this: Do it right and your motor will be fine, try and do an NA build when you dont know what your doing or doing it half assed and you'll screw it up.

This is the same for anything on a car. Its just like a brake job- its not very difficult to chang pads, but you do run the risk of crashing if you do it wrong- ex accidently cutting the brake hose line.

[D17alltheway]

well just to throw another pickle in your ongoing dilemma.... are you going to use the A1 tranny and its longer gear ratios?

[lordhelmet]

Long gear ratios would be bad for NA because engine should stay in the power band. I don't think the stock gear ratios between an A1 and A2 would make too much of a difference though. I think Trix is running an A1 trans.

[wikkaco0]

Originally Posted by lordhelmet

Long gear ratios would be bad for NA because engine should stay in the power band. I don't think the stock gear ratios between an A1 and A2 would make too much of a difference though. I think Trix is running an A1 trans.

I have an A1 transmission. The taller gears don't make that much of a difference. It's more of a gear spacing issue between first and second gear. It just bogs into second if you don't have enough revvs. Not an issue in day to day driving of course. Increased rev limit helps quite alot though. Overall however, ratios are a relatively short in both cases and if you're making enough power and have a big enough rev band, I think the final drive from the A1 will be more advantageous.

D17A2 5M Gear Ratio

First 3.143
Second 1.870
Third 1.241
Fourth 0.970
Fifth 0.757
Reverse 3.231
Final Drive Axle Ratio 4.412

D17A1 5M Gear Ratio

First 3.462
Second 1.870
Third 1.241
Fourth 0.970
Fifth 0.711
Reverse 3.231
Final Drive Axle Ratio 4.111

[bomerman19]

The different trans gear ratio do make a difference I had to run andy old trans which was from a dx and the gears were just to long for the power I now finally have my old ex gear set back in the trans and my acceleration is a lot better in I have also ran the HX gear set which is also too long. the only one that I have not run is the LX.

[TRIZ]

DX and LX gear ratios are the same, arent they??

I'm dumb with trannys... can someone break down what the gear ratios really mean... 4.3333.... hows that any different from 1.333? I have NO idea.

[01_EM2]

Originally Posted by bomerman19

wow this thread has gotten rolling nice

K series are fine but like I said before they don't just cost $150 like a d17 and motors do just blow up thats why at any time of day there is always some one broken down on I-495 capital beltway I have seen motors blown from being driven hard I have seen the blow from bad wrenching, seen them go from just an accidental mistake, and I have seen them go for no reason at all. it happens. But you see if mine goes i am left with the self satisfaction that "I don't care! I get another one tomorrow for $150" not shit that was my k-series i have to start searching so maybe I can find one for under 3 grand in a week.

Also Alot of people don't know this including many k owners but there is one fatal flaw in the desing of the K-series.

The timing chain tensioner. it is operated by oil pressure wich is nice unless you stick it on the track and you get into a hard turn and the revs are already spinning high. the oil sloshes away from the pick up(and it that baffle can only do so much) loose pressure tensioner eases off the chain hopps there goes your motor. so 6000 rpm good suspension hard turn and bam! I have only found one company that has actually addressed this issue and that is TODA. not too hard to blow a K.

I'm not bashing on k's just the ease and cheapness of the d17 has it's advantages. also I have seen a k in a 7thgen before now I know I have never tried to pull one before but to me from the looks of it unless you had a lift and could drop it from the bottom it looks like it could take some time to pull. Mine takes 90 mins to get out from the time the hood pops and the jack slides under untill the the engine is on the ground next to the car.

and it didn't take much to beat a k
150 for crower stage 2 cam
150 for crower valve springs and retainers
900 for k-pro
beat an ep3 and run nose to nose with a type s. tempest racing claimed 144 with matching torque to the wheels that was after I blew out my exhaust gaskets on the way to the tuner and they did a shitty job. I have alot more done to the car now should be above 160 hoping for 170. I think the torque is going to be high but not the hp cause I'll be honest I hit a wall at like 100 miles an hour but I will accelerate like a bat out of hell all the way up to there.

There are k's out there that will beat me and I have driven k series cars and swaped k-series cars but still IMO I have not found a K-series car that is any where near as fun to drive as my car. My car is so much fucking fun drive, that I get sad if I don't drive it everyday. It's awesome!!!

id like to find some cams and springs for that price ne idea where i can??

[speedfoos]

Used. Although Paul's estimates are a little low. I picked up a new Crower cam for $250 and had sold my extra set of springs and retainers for $200.

[bomerman19]

It took a lot of time and searching but that is what I paid for everything you just have to keep your eye out. And when a deal like that comes around especially for the k-pro you have to grab it. It might mean your eating rammen noodles for the next couple of months but its worth it.

If you are looking for new parts at least for the cam the cheapest I have been able to find is directly from crower.

[speedfoos]

I'm brownbagging it for the next few weeks after buying Andy's kpro!

[bomerman19]

Originally Posted by speedfoos

I'm brownbagging it for the next few weeks after buying Andy's kpro!

LOL! So worth it though!

Oh any update on said firewall?

[01_EM2]

oh isee well thats a real tuner right there. i guess ima do both builds. i have a d17a1 and a d17a2 block and bottom end. i think ima build the a1 all motor and add the vtec head and cam and springs to see how far i can get. and since i got a friend whos gonna build a d16y8 for boost ill be building my a2 for boost aswell. but very slowly

[speedfoos]

Originally Posted by bomerman19

Oh any update on said firewall?

I emailed Levi again. We'll see what he comes back with.

[EM2 RYDER]

i already have and i/h/e and clutch and lightend flywheel and i was thinking about the crower stage 2 but unfortunatley i cant afford everything that you have to buy with it ie. valve springs and retainers, kpro. so say i get the crower stage 1 i know you dont need to upgrade the valves springs but would you still need something to tune it with and if so whats the best other than kpro for the stage 1?