Quote:
Originally Posted by speedfoos I've been thinking today and may go a different route with this rebuild. What I'm thinking about doing is not installing the new rods and pistons in this motor, for a couple reasons.
One. I don't have new rings for the pistons. They were only in the previous car for like 4000 miles, but I should really use new rings, which I don't have.
Two. There's a chance that my cylinders may need to be bored out a little and could mean my 75mm pistons won't fit in them anymore. I will have no idea until I take the block to the machine shop, but if that ends up being the case, I'm fucked.
Three. I was going to do the cylinder notch on the bottom (to clear the Crowers) myself. I don't feel like paying £s for the machine work to have them assemble everything and do the notching because I don't trust them to put it together correctly.
Four. I've got a deadline to have this car running by Tuesday. I don't think I can make it with everything I have to get done.
So in light of all this what I may end up doing is still pulling the motor, change out the water pump, oil pump, rod and main bearings to get it back to a decent running state. This way I can get it to pass inspection and renew the registration so I can drive it for the rest of the summer. I would much rather take my time and build a fresh block outside of the car when I'm in that US this fall and have access to a decent machine shop. This will also coincide with the k-pro install. I don't really feel like street tuning the car myself with the lower compression pistons.
I think I'm doing the right thing by doing it this way. What do you guys think? |
I agree with your thinking, Clint. You should wait and take your bottom end to a good builder who will have accurate measuring tools and experience to advise you on what you'll need to do with the bore. At which point you can make an informed decision on whether you need to bore or hone. Based on that you'd make the decision on your pistons - aftermarket, OEM standard bore, OEM oversize, SLEEVE AND GO 78MM (had to throw that in), or whatever. Once you have your pistons in hand - then you give them to the shop who will bore to fit each individual piston based on their slight variances.
Metal shavings in the coolant? Gah! God man, how could this be from the water pump unless it disintegrated or something? Could the thermostat have fallen apart? All water pumps ever do is wear out their bearings - that's it as far as I know. And there's no oil in the coolant? It'll be interesting to see the condition of the pump when you pull it. I doubt it's the source of the knock also (but I'm willing to be wrong). Since the TB rides on the pump, I would think there would be some vibration coming from that area if the bearings were messed up.
If you have metal shavings in the oil then they could be everywhere including the pickup and head. The pickup is easy to check out. The head - well you'd have to disassemble the whole damn thing and clean it out. I bought 2 Y8s a while back; one had a spun bearing and the other threw a rod. There were metal shavings in the head on both blocks.
Oh, almost forgot. Gratuitous monkey pic below. I took this pic of a howler monkey in Central America last July.
